When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello, I have a 1990 E350 long chassis 7.3idi with a 20' box on it, it started life as a U-Haul. It sat for about five years and discovered the transmission was toast after finally starting it.
On a side note, all I did was replace the batteries and drain the water from the separator, and it fired right up after sitting for five years.
A gasser would never do that. Anyway, on with the question. I purchased a used transmission and realized the neutral safety switch connector is in a different location. Both are E4OD 8-445. The one on the truck is a rotary switch that bolts to the shifter between the linkage. The one on the new tranny is a connector on the opposite side. They appear to be identical, and I can probably just extend the wire in the harness to reach the connector. My question is, does this matter? The UHaul version obviously doesn't send a signal to the tranny whereas the version I got does. I'm pretty ignorant about most things transmission. I've swapped out several, changed clutches, etc., but that's it. There was no OD button on the shift lever in the cab, only an overspeed warning light on the dash, so they obviously disabled the OD due to the expected loads. Will the transmission still operate mechanically, like a C-6, or will I burn it up without sending power to whatever electronic controls are inside? New transmission connector Aftermarket shift position sensor that came on the truck
I included a picture of both the connectors. The aftermarket one comes with an adaptor that when removed will match the one on the truck's harness.
Most U-Hauls had the C6, not E4OD. Do the two transmissions look the same? Does the trans in the truck have a large electrical connector on the passenger's side like the E4OD?
You mentioned the E4OD in the truck is toast. If both transmissions are E4ODs then swap the necessary linkage from the transmission in the truck to the spare one when you install it.
FWIW, I've heard that there aren't any E4ODs in the boneyard left that won't need a rebuild before installing. I don't know if this is an old wive's tale or good advice. If it doesn't have the OD button on the gear selector then I thought it would be a C6.
I figured out yesterday the VIN search on the truck had bad info.
It says 4 speed auto E4OD 8-445 on the search.
Had I been slightly more informed I would have known to check the tag code on the door, which clearly indicates a G transmission, which is a C6 8-445.
I sent pictures of the door tag to dozens of auto wreckers, including the eBay vendor I purchased from.
I'm a rider, have raced road tracks and lots of dirt, and have several bikes ranging from fire-breathing MX to closed road circuit only, and several in between.
My intent was to rehab the U-Haul into a motor home base and sell it to another rider to convert into a track RV Toy Hauler.
The easy part was the title transfer.
There's a return window and I'll eat a couple hundred on shipping, but it could always be worse.
At least my abject ignorance has been cured for the day.
As long as I learn something new everyday, then it's a good day indeed.
Humble Pie, eat it up, yum..
I appreciate everyone's input.
It was the simple bolt count that did it.
Then finding a complete code chart for the door tags that confirmed it.
Thank you for all your help.
Well, after a heck of a learning curve, this tranny is a C6.
I decided to rebuild it myself.
Opened it up last night and discovered a broken plastic piece among the literal piles of friction plate material in the oil pan.
That's along with several missing bolts, a JB Weld case repair in two places, and a sticker from a uHaul transmission repair shop in Oklahoma that is no longer in business.
I already have a master rebuild kit on the way.
I'm going to go out and finish the teardown after breakfast.
I wanted to share a couple pictures first. This isn't exactly where the part was laying, but I didn't think about a picture then. It damaged the governor but I'm not sure if the damage is terminal. Ouch Looks like a JB Weld to me. Based on this I need to order a Type N 2nd Gear shift Diaphragm?
That's along with several missing bolts, a JB Weld case repair in two places, and a sticker from a uHaul transmission repair shop in Oklahoma that is no longer in business.
Oklahoma lookin' bad!
I don't think that's necessarily a JB Weld repair to the case. Use Simple Green & a gasket scraper to get it cleaner so you can double check.
You are correct.
Apparently it was just adhesive to hold the U-Haul transmission rebuild inventory number.
I got into it yesterday.
I'm confident I can do the build, the problem is finding specific information.
U-Haul trucks are not a very popular backyard mechanic project, so finding the heavy duty alternate, or even a discussion that compares the options for a transmission that was in almost every Ford, from light duty gas F150's to diesel E350's for over a decade has been the biggest hurdle. Understandably, everyone wants to talk about the Corvette or F150, not the box truck they sometimes rent.
I'll add a few more pictures that show the extreme wear.
What's really concerning is trying to identify where that piece of broken part came from that was in the oil pan.
Was it a foreign object left from the rebuild, something accidentally dropped down the dipstick hole, or was the rest of it just vaporized.
Will the governor be OK? The interior springs look good. It doesn't look like the damage on the exterior will affect the actual operation.
The foreword planetary gear has a very slight sideways play, how much is OK?
There was a lot of debris in the oil pan, but mostly just plate shavings.
I have a nice parts wash that is cleaning everything up nicely, and some light 4k grit should polish off the scuffs.
Should I bother with the valve body?
I really appreciate your taking a moment out of your life to answer any question you may know.
I've built 4X4's built raced, and rode motorcycles, dirt and closed circuit organized road racing, done backyard repairs on all cars and trucks out of warranty, and built a couple hot rods decades ago.
I've just never cracked open a transmission.
Thanks No dot or identifiers on the pump gear. Aside from the inside gear position for torque converter, does the outer gear position matter? Clutch plates burned everywhere. The thrush washers are all fried too. Is light scratching OK to be buffed out? Yes, it's nasty, but aside from the plastic object, it's all just clutch plates materials.