Killer C-Notches...
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 789
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From: MI..."near" Dearborn...
Killer C-Notches...
...picked these little babies up from our ol' buddy Art Morrison...
...
...I thought they would be a great way to "start" fabbin' up my
C-notches once I get finshed settin' up my 9" rear axle assembly
I scored from a '70 F100 to slide under "our" '56...
...
Part #32347200 (A) 36" Hard-way 2"x4"
......I thought they would be a great way to "start" fabbin' up my
C-notches once I get finshed settin' up my 9" rear axle assembly
I scored from a '70 F100 to slide under "our" '56...
...90° mandrel bent tubing for Special Uses
Part #32347200 (A) 36" Hard-way 2"x4"
The “hard way” bends are on the 2" tall section
*so popular decided to make them a standard catalog item!
*so popular decided to make them a standard catalog item!
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 789
Likes: 2
From: MI..."near" Dearborn...
Notches...
...Well they were not too cheap but that turned out to be an
after thought on my part...$65.00 each plus shipping......
...the good news is they seem to be the same size as as the frame rails on
my '56 once I get it boxed...
...soooooo...after I rear end lineed up
and in place with the 4-link...I can mark the original rails and cut-out
as much as I see fit...andthen weld-in these peices to replace the 2"
"kick-up" that was from the factory with a much higher "kick-up" for
axle and chassis clearance...
That will help my air-ride and help the truck to "lay-frame"......
Well...in theory anyway...
...
after thought on my part...$65.00 each plus shipping...
......the good news is they seem to be the same size as as the frame rails on
my '56 once I get it boxed...
...soooooo...after I rear end lineed up and in place with the 4-link...I can mark the original rails and cut-out
as much as I see fit...andthen weld-in these peices to replace the 2"
"kick-up" that was from the factory with a much higher "kick-up" for
axle and chassis clearance...
That will help my air-ride and help the truck to "lay-frame"...
...Well...in theory anyway...
...
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Those are nice, but there are easier/cheaper ways to C notch a frame. Problem with using those is you need to remove a section of frame over the axle first then weld in the new tubing. There is nothing to maintain the frame alignment, prevent warp or twist. See my "extras" gallery for a better way, you can make the notches as deep as you'd like. All you need is some 10ga plate and some 10 ga strap as wide as the frame, a lot cheaper than 130.00 especially if you find a fabricator that considers the size pieces you need "drops" or scrap. Remember tho the C's section needs to go somewhere so you'll end up with a hump in your bed floor or a very shallow flat bed floor.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Seal Beach, CA
I agree -- don't cut the C notch until after you've welded new arch pcs. on.. Its real easy to tweek the frame with this operation...
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Pflugerville, tx
I had to raise the bed on top of the side rails and adjust everything else..
Sam
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Yep, if you are going to truly "lay frame" it's gonna be a pretty high hump.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 789
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From: MI..."near" Dearborn...
material thickness...
I remember speaking to someone on the phone at AME
about this issue and for some reason 0.140" is stuck
in my brain...
...isn't that the same wall thickness of a '56 frame?
I'm only half way thru my second cup of coffee...
......last time I measured I could only find my mm calipers
and was tryin' to hurry...ya all know what happens
THEN...
...since then I've picked up an Eastwood Shrinker/Stretcher
kit and it came with a metal gauge so I can check later...
...another cuppa-joe or two...ya know...
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 789
Likes: 2
From: MI..."near" Dearborn...
AME peices...
My metal gauge shows 11-gauge...
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
It's the same tubing they use for their frames. They mandrel bend their frames, so people started asking for the bends themselves to use in their custom projects. Similar to how the header manufacturers offer bends and donuts of mandrel bent header tubing to create or modify custom exhaust systems.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 789
Likes: 2
From: MI..."near" Dearborn...
notches...
...thanx for the heads-up every-one...I've got a couple longs peices to use as "strapping" material to tie the rails together in both the X & Y axis
before any material removal...
I'll be doing some mock-up before-hand...at this point...I'm not sure I will
need to make use of the entire "notch" as purchased...
Garage & truck almoust ready for a few more degrees of warmth...so I'll
keep everyone updated......
...now...where did I put that darn stimulus check...I"m gonna need alot more MIG wire......
before any material removal...
I'll be doing some mock-up before-hand...at this point...I'm not sure I will
need to make use of the entire "notch" as purchased...
Garage & truck almoust ready for a few more degrees of warmth...so I'll
keep everyone updated...
......now...where did I put that darn stimulus check...I"m gonna need alot more MIG wire...
...
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Rockher,
I'd suggest buying "EZ Grind" wire by ESAB. Most Esab dealers don't stock it but can order it. Be sure to insist it is actually EZ (or Easy) Grind, it is listed by that name in the ESAB catalog, it does NOT have an alloy #, it is a proprietary alloy, don't accept a substitute. It is available in 8" spools in .024" and .035" sizes. IMHO it is the only mig wire to use for sheet metal work as well as gen purpose welding.
I'd suggest buying "EZ Grind" wire by ESAB. Most Esab dealers don't stock it but can order it. Be sure to insist it is actually EZ (or Easy) Grind, it is listed by that name in the ESAB catalog, it does NOT have an alloy #, it is a proprietary alloy, don't accept a substitute. It is available in 8" spools in .024" and .035" sizes. IMHO it is the only mig wire to use for sheet metal work as well as gen purpose welding.
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