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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

EGR code 332 post shorty header install

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Old Jun 24, 2023 | 08:26 PM
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EGR code 332 post shorty header install

Hello all,

Just completed installing shorty headers and a new y pipe that has one small cat instead of the OEM 2 cat system I did re-attach the air injection tube to the cat.

After a short drive CEL comes on and its a code 332 for "insufficient EGR flow detected".

I did not have this code prior to installing the new headers and y pipe, the only other things I touched were the vacuum lines which I inspected they are still good. I did replace the coffee can from one i got at a junkyard that was in better shape than my current one. I checked the new exhaust system for leaks and there is one leak along the pipes right before the cat past the o2 sensor but surely this cant trigger a code 332 for EGR?

Thank you all.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2023 | 09:24 PM
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Turns out, when I replaced the coffee can I had the manifold vacuum line plugged into the “amp nipple” and the black line that feeds the tad, tab and evr plugged into the “man” line on the coffee can.

Perhaps this is the smoking gun? I didn’t realize the nipples on the coffee can were labeled.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2023 | 09:36 PM
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Yes the vacuum canister is directional.

What are you working on? It's not possible to ge a code for insufficient EGR flow on anything that isn't an OBD2 truck so you may have misinterpreted the code.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2023 | 06:04 AM
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Your EGR simply had no vacuum source with the vacuum canister not plumbed into in the system correctly.
Yes, OBD1 had codes for insufficient flow, his 332 is it
The older ones with 2-digit codes would just shoot an EVP code for no or insufficient EGR flow
 
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Old Jun 25, 2023 | 09:02 AM
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Well... as it turns out simply indicating the EGR system was enough to point the OP in the right direction and he found the source of the problem. For the record the correct definition for code 332 on an OBD1 truck is "EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly – EVR or PFE". Notice that is references the EVR( EGR vacuum regulator), so that device, a vaccum line or the vacuum resovoir would be the likely source of the problem.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2023 | 01:18 PM
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Info from where?
You have that wrong
Code 332 is exactly what the OP said it was
Insufficient EGR flow
You need the Ford books not Chilton or Haynes?
You need a Ford PCED (specific for the year you are working on)
Here is the 3-digit code chart
 
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Old Jun 25, 2023 | 01:20 PM
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Old Jun 25, 2023 | 01:38 PM
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I see what the Ford manual says, looked at it hundreds of times, but if the engine has only an EGR Valve Position (EVP) on top of the EGR valve how can the computer sense actual flow? Sensing actual flow requires a DPFE sensor, EGR tube with sample ports and hoses between the two. I do not think that happened until ~ 1995 on some trucks/Broncos with MAF and California emissions.

Perhaps my research and experience with this vintage truck is not accurate? I would sincerely like to know how the computer would use EVP sensor feedback to sense actual flow.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2023 | 02:00 PM
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I will test again today since I corrected the issue. Manifold vac line to “man” nipple on coffee can and black line that feeds the tad/tab/evr to the “amp” nipple.

I’m certain this is it as i had no code prior to header install. So i thought what things did i touch or remove? So I inspected from there.

Note. I would not recommend the summit racing headers for the 5.0 or 5.8 for that matter. There are really shoddy quality even at $199. From the getgo there is a leak on the cylinder 5 manifold tube. Its a small leak but as a new part it shouldn’t be leaking.

I also had to double up on gaskets for it to seal properly. I used a copper gasket and then an aluminum type one that came with the headers.

Oval shaped gaskets are harder to find so I used what came with the headers.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2023 | 02:40 PM
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Thanks for the update.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2023 | 03:19 PM
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The processor knows EGR flow due to the pintle valve position (of the EVP) and the EGR orifice size
That combined with the rest of the info Mass air flow and rpm etc.
Same as the newer DPFE systems (they too, do not actually measure flow)
The EGR flow does not actually get measured. they are extrapolating a measurement using the data from multiple sensors
Doubling up on gaskets? Now, that will be a problem
 
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Old Jun 25, 2023 | 06:50 PM
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So the definition of Code 332 is a matter of semantics I suppose. The code stated in the 1993 and up truck manuals is a bit misleading IMHO.

Interesting side note what the 1992 Ford manual shows for Code 332. The 1993 and up trucks use the same hardware, i.e. EVP sensor on top of the EGR valve, for feedback to the computer until DPFE came out.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2023 | 07:49 PM
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There is no MAF sensor on most of these trucks... it didn't even begin to appear until '95 for most 50 state versions.
What year was your manual published? I don't remember ever seeing any reference to EGR flow on service documentation from back in the day, that only became a thing once DPFE appeared in '96.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2023 | 09:28 PM
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UPDATE case resolved. It was the incorrect vacuum lines plugged into the coffee can.

9 times out of 10 the threads i post here i end up resolving by myself lol. Thanks all for being a soundboard for me!

I do have a maf on my 1994. I actually tried to pay a shop to do this because of the horror stories. The only shop in my city that would do a header that had 5 starts claimed they tried but couldn’t get the bolts out which was horse****. Bolts had not a mark from a wrench or otherwise on them.

So I took it upon myself to fix my exhaust manifold leaks. I managed to get all bolts out except 1 which i snapped in the head. Extractor didn’t work so i spent 3 hours slowly drilling out the bolt and then i chased the threads with a tap.

Surprisingly the truck isnt much louder. I have the y pipe shortys and a glass pack.

Here are some pics










 
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Old Jun 27, 2023 | 09:30 PM
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Wanted to note as a tip, taking the passenger fender is the best way and necessary to do the passenger header. The driver side, taking the fender out will make it harder more cumbersome.

also the 10mm bolts that come with it are just not quite big enough head wise to provide necessary spread force on the header for a good seal in my opinion, so use the original size bolts with the larger 14mm head vs the 10mm head where you can. Some places will be impossible. In that case use the 10mm bolts with a washer.

AND DOUBLE UP ON YOUR HEADER GASKETS avoid doing it twice like i did!

AND copper rtv the o2 sensor plugs at the header!
 
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