I have a f350 with a 460 it has a mechanical fuel pump and the truck been sitting for 20 years. I wanted to remove the side tank with that switch over electrical box I don’t know the correct name for it. Has anyone done this can I just splice the fuel line together at that box?

 

Are you asking about the fuel reservoir on the frame rail ? Mine is a single tank ? The tank is easy to drop, two straps and the fuel filler neck. I have a "how to" up top inthe stickys for replacing the fuel filler neck, pictures there may help you.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ller-hose.html

 

How many fuel lines are going into the fuel switching valve on the frame?

 

There are 4 lines going to the valve. So I need a reservoir even if I eliminate one tank? I just started restoring this and I wanted a cleaner look underneath, also with the truck sitting that long I’m sure the valve doesn’t work anymore. Thank you for helping me with replies. I’m use to working on older trucks

 

I think you miss-counted, you should have 6 lines going to the valve. The only way you have 4 lines is if you have a setup like in the picture above, and that only came on a single tank fuel injected 302.

So if you have a 6 port valve, then you have a return system. If you originally had a mechanical pump, then your pump has 3 lines going to it correct? If the mechanical pump is a conventional two line pump, and it came in with a engine swap, then that probably means you have electric pumps inside the tanks.

There is no way of knowing what you have exactly unless you know the complete story of the truck's history and was it originally a 460. What we know;

460 trucks never had a 4 port valve, only a 6 port valve.

If it had a 6 port valve,, then we know it has a return type system.

If it had a return type system, it had a 3 port mechanical fuel pump or electric pump in each tank.

The 6 port valve should also have 5 or 6 wires going to it.

 

Can you post pictures of what your talking about ?

 

Yes there is 6 line’s going to it. Truck is completely stock that’s why I bought it.

 

So let me get this correct.

You want to remove the side tank
You want to remove the switch
You want to just connect the lines together, bypassing everything you removed ?

 

Ok, we know more now. You have dual lines going up front. The smaller line was the original return line, you can take that out. The larger line you can keep or replace, that will be your single supply line. If you are keeping the original lines, splice the larger line from the tank you are using,, to the larger line going up front. If you have the original truck tanks, there is probably a fuel pump inside the tank. I would pull that out and eliminate it, but some people do suck fuel through the old pump just sitting there apparently. Whatever you do, you need to pull the smaller line out to the tank, and then plug that smaller port at the tank, that is the finally destination of the return that you will not be using.

When you pull the valve and unplug the wiring, you will have to splice some wires. The valve switched the sending units besides switching the liquid fuel lines. The yellow with a white stripe goes up front to the fuel gauge. The darkblue/yellow goes to the front tank sending unit. The yellow/lightblue wire goes to the rear tank sending unit. Cut the yellow/white wire and splice it to the other wire that corresponds to the tank you will be using. That will make your fuel gauge work.

 

Yes I wanted to know if I could remove all of it like the 79s and older. What’s the chances of it all works anyway it’s been sitting since 2000. Pulling the bed off tomorrow so I’ll be able to see the condition off the tanks and if there’s a pump in there. I’ve been reading sometimes there’s a mechanical and electrical one. Thanks again guys for replying .

 

Look how many wires go into the sending units. The non-pump sending units have something like 2 wires, the ones with the pumps have 3 or more wires. The valves like you have are prone to failure. But it may work, all you have to do is put a battery in it, turn the key to run, and then switch the dash switch back and forth. You should hear a thunk from the valve if it's working. It has a little motor in it like a electric window, and it moves the valving and it also switches the sending units with a contact set inside it.

 

Just a thought, if your valve works and you want to remove it... don't damage it, someone here may buy it from you.