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I have a 1978 F-250, 2wd, 400 6.6L. I recently finished rebuilding the top end of the engine (cylinder heads up). I replaced the Duraspark with an HEI Distributor. I drove the truck about 30 miles. It was acting a little fun (losing power acting like it was going to die), and turned out to have the timing ~17 degrees off. I used a timing light and got the timing right. I had turned the engine on and off several times during this process, and it always started back up.
When I finished, and was about to drive the truck away, I turned the key and the engine did not attempt to turn over. I checked to make sure the battery was charged. I got a click from the starter solenoid when I turn the key, but nothing else. I replaced the starter solenoid and the starter itself, but I am not getting anything different. Just to make sure things are weird, I can jump from the positive post on the battery to far terminal on the starter solenoid, and then the starter engages and starts to turn the engine over.
I am out of ideas to check. From here, all I can think to do is take the dashboard off and check the connections, but I wanted some advice before I did that because I can't really convince myself that is the problem.
If bypassing the solenoid works, it’s the solenoid. Unless it isn’t getting power to the signal wire, then it wouldn’t click. could also be low voltage/bad connection, but jumping around it without problems should eliminate that also.
Jump power to the signal wire instead of around the terminal, or check voltage on the signal wire.
mine acted like that and it was my spade connector improperly installed , i had it slid up there touching but not connected, my fault , its hard shoving that wire up there when wires and cap installed . best thing i ever did was one wire my whole ignition , i put a multiple spark module in mine , runs awesome
your first issue with the hei didn't mean to double post
mine acted like that and it was my spade connector improperly installed , i had it slid up there touching but not connected, my fault , its hard shoving that wire up there when wires and cap installed . best thing i ever did was one wire my whole ignition , i put a multiple spark module in mine , runs awesome
Last edited by forda esploder; Jun 16, 2023 at 04:00 AM.
Reason: accidentally double posted
Is there a post I can use to ground it? Or just the metal plate it attaches to?
The screws go thru a metal bracket on the solenoid and it should bolt to the metal inner fender.
Pull the solenoid clean the inner fender to bare metal.
Clean the solenoid bracket & bolts and bolt it back down.
Now it can still be a bad solenoid but if it is not grounded it could have issues.
My 81 F100 with a 300 six once in a while would "clunk" 1 to 3 time before it would crank.
I cleaned all connections even the solenoid ground and it was worst than before.
I went right to NAPA and bought a top of the line, seen to many post of cheap ones failing, and have not had any issues since.
Been about 2+ years now. All my battery cables were new just a few years old when I did a frame off rebuild.
It is what I get for using an old solenoid
Dave ----
The screws go thru a metal bracket on the solenoid and it should bolt to the metal inner fender.
Pull the solenoid clean the inner fender to bare metal.
Clean the solenoid bracket & bolts and bolt it back down.
Now it can still be a bad solenoid but if it is not grounded it could have issues.
My 81 F100 with a 300 six once in a while would "clunk" 1 to 3 time before it would crank.
I cleaned all connections even the solenoid ground and it was worst than before.
I went right to NAPA and bought a top of the line, seen to many post of cheap ones failing, and have not had any issues since.
Been about 2+ years now. All my battery cables were new just a few years old when I did a frame off rebuild.
It is what I get for using an old solenoid
Dave ----
I will be damned. Ran a ground wire from the solenoid to the battery and it started right up.
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