starter problem
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New User
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starter problem
I have a 1984 f-150 and the starter seems to be dieing out. Pretty sure I just need to replace the starter but thought I would check here anyway. Basically when I turn the key to start the truck it will make a click sound then hesitate for about three to four seconds (this hesitation takes place while the key is engaged) then start no problem. Just wondering if that hesitation is a sign of the starter dieing. Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
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If it were me, I'd get a couple of l-o-n-g test leads and run the starter straight off the battery. This takes the ingnition switch, starter relay and the solenoid out of the equation. If the starter works properly, you need to look elsewhere. Good luck.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,477
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From: Sheffield, AL
Most mechanic shops have the capability to measure the amperage being drawn by the starter while cranking. This would show if the starter is operating within an acceptable range.
Take a good look at the battery cables to ensure that they are clean and tight and not frayed. The same is true for ground cables where they attach to the frame and engine.
Is the battery good?
Take a good look at the battery cables to ensure that they are clean and tight and not frayed. The same is true for ground cables where they attach to the frame and engine.
Is the battery good?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Dallas, GA
during this hesitation, is it trying to turn the motor over or is it just a click and then the starter goes?
Have you recently changed the starter solenoid. Almost sounds like that is sticking for a second before it pulls in. If you have a second person and a multi-meter, have someone check for voltage on the starter side of the solenoid while you try to start the engine.
If you hear the click, make sure that's coming from the solenoid, and there is no voltage on the starter side at first then after your hesitation voltage is present...then that would confirm your solenoid is sticking.
If the entire time the instant you hit the key voltage is going to the starter, then it's not the solenoid.
If your timing is too far advanced...that can make the starter work extra hard due to the fuel being ignited early as the piston is still traveling upward. On the computer controled motors, the timing actually gets retarded to help with starting
Have you recently changed the starter solenoid. Almost sounds like that is sticking for a second before it pulls in. If you have a second person and a multi-meter, have someone check for voltage on the starter side of the solenoid while you try to start the engine.
If you hear the click, make sure that's coming from the solenoid, and there is no voltage on the starter side at first then after your hesitation voltage is present...then that would confirm your solenoid is sticking.
If the entire time the instant you hit the key voltage is going to the starter, then it's not the solenoid.
If your timing is too far advanced...that can make the starter work extra hard due to the fuel being ignited early as the piston is still traveling upward. On the computer controled motors, the timing actually gets retarded to help with starting
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New User
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after it clicks everything goes silent for about 2-3 seconds then the starter engages and the truck starts right up. Another thing is I just had the clutch replaced and this problem came up after that.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Dallas, GA
ok...still need to know some more.
Is the clicking coming from the starter solenoid or from the starter?
Need to know if 12V is being sent to the starter. If 12V is being sent to the starter and it just clicks and then later engages...then it sounds like the starter mounted solenoid is sticking.
There are 2 solenoids...one mounted on the fender that simply puts the 12V to the starter when the key is taken to start. The other is mounted on the starter and that's what pushes the bendix drive forward to engage in the flywheel.
So trying to narrow down where the cliking is coming from and if during this "hesitation", power is being delevered to the starter. That will tell us if it's the starter or the starter solenoid (on the fender).
Is the clicking coming from the starter solenoid or from the starter?
Need to know if 12V is being sent to the starter. If 12V is being sent to the starter and it just clicks and then later engages...then it sounds like the starter mounted solenoid is sticking.
There are 2 solenoids...one mounted on the fender that simply puts the 12V to the starter when the key is taken to start. The other is mounted on the starter and that's what pushes the bendix drive forward to engage in the flywheel.
So trying to narrow down where the cliking is coming from and if during this "hesitation", power is being delevered to the starter. That will tell us if it's the starter or the starter solenoid (on the fender).
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Its hard to tell which one is making the clicking I don't have a second person at the moment to help. What I did do so far is wiggle the wire connections gently on the solenoid on the fender. At first the starter engaged instantly, like it should, but now the truck wont actually start and run, it acts like its going to but wont. I appreciate the help though.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Use a small piece of wire to jump 3 & 5 (small red/blue-stripe wire connects here); the starter should engage and turn the engine over when you do that, see if you can replicate the delays using that method.
My guess would be the solenoid has got bad connections internally (see THIS THREAD for an explanation) but that's only a guess.
My guess would be the solenoid has got bad connections internally (see THIS THREAD for an explanation) but that's only a guess.
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Ok I did the test using a wire to jump 3 and 5 and the click seems to be coming from the solenoid. When I did the test the connection down at the starter started smoking and flaming up any idea what that could mean.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
That's not good....
Possibly there are just bad connections battery + <-> solenoid <-> starter and/or battery - <-> engine block (and frame, if applicable).
Possibly the starter motor is just drawing way too much power and is in need of replacement.
Possible the solenoid just isn't allowing enough current to go through.
Possible the engine is locked up and just won't turn.
Can you put a 15/16ths socket on the front dampener bolt and turn over the engine by hand (or can you verify the engine turns over)?
Possibly there are just bad connections battery + <-> solenoid <-> starter and/or battery - <-> engine block (and frame, if applicable).
Possibly the starter motor is just drawing way too much power and is in need of replacement.
Possible the solenoid just isn't allowing enough current to go through.
Possible the engine is locked up and just won't turn.
Can you put a 15/16ths socket on the front dampener bolt and turn over the engine by hand (or can you verify the engine turns over)?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Dallas, GA
Well you had said previously I believe that after the hesitation the engine would start and run fine correct?
If that is true then hopefully your engine is not seized. Combining the symptoms you list above with your previous "hesitation" description...I would say your starter is toast.
You stated it would hesitate then engage and crank fine, this leads me to believe the solenoid on the starter was going, and is now bad.
I would pull that starter and take it to a parts store. They can test it and tell you for sure.
If that is true then hopefully your engine is not seized. Combining the symptoms you list above with your previous "hesitation" description...I would say your starter is toast.
You stated it would hesitate then engage and crank fine, this leads me to believe the solenoid on the starter was going, and is now bad.
I would pull that starter and take it to a parts store. They can test it and tell you for sure.
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I got the starter tested and it does work but it was pretty loud and not very smooth.
One other thing I tried is I bought a new solenoid for the fender put the wires back on exactly as they were before, all while the negative battery cable was off the battery, when I reconnected the negative battery cable to the battery the truck tried to start itself without the key in the ignition.
I did read another thread on this but not sure if the guy figured it out, i,ll look again.
I'm wondering if I should get a new cable for the battery first, I hate to buy a new starter if that's not the problem.
One other thing I tried is I bought a new solenoid for the fender put the wires back on exactly as they were before, all while the negative battery cable was off the battery, when I reconnected the negative battery cable to the battery the truck tried to start itself without the key in the ignition.
I did read another thread on this but not sure if the guy figured it out, i,ll look again.
I'm wondering if I should get a new cable for the battery first, I hate to buy a new starter if that's not the problem.