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Don’t waste your time worrying about the “best oil”. You need to get an oil pressure test gauge (remove the schrader valve at the plug if it has one) and test the mechanical oil pressure.
Don’t waste your time worrying about the “best oil”. You need to get an oil pressure test gauge (remove the schrader valve at the plug if it has one) and test the mechanical oil pressure.
Id use a 5/30 with that many miles. Brands like Oreileys house stuff has worked just find in my stuff for years. last time I was in a AP store to name oils were almost $12 a quart, screw that I say.
With 220,000 miles, the oil light coming oil before the engine is warm and moving for 1/2 mile. I am not sure if she is burning oil.
Thanks
Strange that the oil pressure light turns off as the engine warms up.
That's when the oil tends to thin out a bit.
How sludgged up is that well maintained engine?
Strange that the oil pressure light turns off as the engine warms up.
That's when the oil tends to thin out a bit.
How sludgged up is that well maintained engine?
Oil was changed two months ago. Looks brand new. The light only comes on when the engine is freshly started. It is only on for 20 seconds.
5W30 full synthetic, IMO Ford sacrificed long term reliability by recommending 5W20 to get a better CAFE rating, being confident they will last past the warranty period... note the same engine in fleet models carries the 5W30 recommendation.
I like to know the "Actual" oil pressure, instead of the "Idiot gauge" I call it an idiot gauge because our gauge is actuated by a switch.. If the switch senses the minimum oil pressure the "idiot gauge" indicates "normal", if not it indicates downscale. I have had plans to install and oil pressure sender and gauge in my F150 for awhile, and have never got around to it. But I have tested with a mechanical gauge. Oil pressure @ idle
I would check yours with a mechanical gauge, If oil pressure is lower than you desire I would consider dropping the oil pan and checking / cleaning the oil pump pickup, however it is more likely the cam phasers / solenoids are the culprit.
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5W30 full synthetic, IMO Ford sacrificed long term reliability by recommending 5W20 to get a better CAFE rating, being confident they will last past the warranty period... note the same engine in fleet models carries the 5W30 recommendation.
I like to know the "Actual" oil pressure, instead of the "Idiot gauge" I call it an idiot gauge because our gauge is actuated by a switch.. If the switch senses the minimum oil pressure the "idiot gauge" indicates "normal", if not it indicates downscale. I have had plans to install and oil pressure sender and gauge in my F150 for awhile, and have never got around to it. But I have tested with a mechanical gauge. Oil pressure @ idle
I would check yours with a mechanical gauge, If oil pressure is lower than you desire I would consider dropping the oil pan and checking / cleaning the oil pump pickup, however it is more likely the cam phasers / solenoids are the culprit.
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One year OCI, no leaks, and daily driver? Redline with a good filter. M1 or Amsoil filters usually top tier. Fram's high end seems well made too.
Beaters? Just get whatever is on sale oil wise (all API certified anyway), keep it clean and full. Hell evem Pennzoil YB is great stuff. I usually do six months/5k intervals on my stuff that leaks. One leaks so bad I just do the filter I add a quart every 500mi. Yes, massive leak at pressure point on my 4x4 Suburban's pan rail. Super common but the 5.3 is coming out for a 6.0HO
Check out Bobistheoilguy.com great site. Tons and tons of info.
I would use
Motocraft 5w30 semi synthetic oil
And
A Motorcraft oil filter. FL 820? on yours
I would
Replace your oil pressure sending unit and use a Ford one NOS if now obsolete over the parts counter
Get the part number from them and search Ebay for one