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The cable is released? You mean you released the head
The cable may still be stuck part way in applied
Take a big pry bar against the axle and pry the e brake lever back (to release the cable) all the way
Check your new shoes next to old ones. Are you using the old drums? The last kit I got from Rock auto had the wrong shoes way to thick and drums would not go on. They were good and sent me the correct ones overnight. Also open the bleeder and make sure the wheel cylinder is fully compressed I use a clamp. and adjuster is screwed all the way in. Is this on one side or both?Does your drum have a ridge on the outside edge that needs to be turned down?
SOLVED!
One shoe in a set from Auto Zone was manufactured too thick. I put one from Advance Auto on & drum slid right on.
Still trying to figure out why they are getting too hot. It was a pre-existing problem when I did this brake work. Previous to all this I had an independent shop replace a front brake line. I'm unsure if the front brakes were ever bled properly.
SOLVED!
One shoe in a set from Auto Zone was manufactured too thick. I put one from Advance Auto on & drum slid right on.
Still trying to figure out why they are getting too hot. It was a pre-existing problem when I did this brake work. Previous to all this I had an independent shop replace a front brake line. I'm unsure if the front brakes were ever bled properly.
Is the rear brake hose acting as a one way valve and not fully allowing the rear brakes to release?
After pumping the brakes, crack a rear bleeder and see if that allows the rears to fully release.
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