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Last night I had forscan running when I put it in neutral to tap the gas. I noticed my rpm showed 3800 in my csv when I did this. Not sure what would cause that faulty reading my cps is in good shape but like you said my wiring is getting pretty old. I'll rig up some alligator clamps today so I can get a reading
What happened here? Just the act of shifting to N threw a reading off for the rpm? If you suspect the PCM is getting false data you probably want to chase that down. It may not be related to your current woes but still a gremlin laying in wait.
So I finaly got around to replacing all of my parker sleeves and threw a rebuild kit into my fpr. Put the gold spring in at first figured what the hell why not. Fired her up and sitting at 95 psi. Made a quick trip to the store come out crank her up and now I'm over 100 psi. Electric gauge post filer was maxed so I looked at my mechanical guage and damn near 110. Headed back to the house figured what the hell and dialed up a hot tune. Hit the gas and pop guess I didn't get one of my clamps as tight as I thought because I blew my intercooler tube smooth out of the boot. Put the black spring in and I'm still sitting around 80 psi. I noticed the new springs are about 2 links longer than the one I took out. Old spring idled around 55 which I believe is that the black spring is rated for? I've seen people have this issue before any ideas?
What rebuild kit did you use for the FPR? Some have the fuel poppet with no hole in the middle - I think those run a bit higher pressure since they don't bleed a bit of pressure through that hole all the time. This is mine with the hole.
Otherwise, make sure the poppet moves freely in the housing.
I got the 63$ one clay sells. Popet has the hole. Verified it moves freely. Was able to remove my fuel bowl and do it in the house. Made sure everything was nice and clean everything seated properly. Shouldn't have a restriction in my return line it was working fine before. Might clean up my old spring and toss it back in and see what it does. I didn't count the coils but I would say they new one is atleast 1/8 of and inch longer I know springs wear out over time but seems odd if It was giving me spec fp... I dunno I'll play with it once the sun goes down too damn hot in TX right now.
So I finaly got around to replacing all of my parker sleeves and threw a rebuild kit into my fpr. Put the gold spring in at first figured what the hell why not. Fired her up and sitting at 95 psi. Made a quick trip to the store come out crank her up and now I'm over 100 psi. Electric gauge post filer was maxed so I looked at my mechanical guage and damn near 110. Headed back to the house figured what the hell and dialed up a hot tune. Hit the gas and pop guess I didn't get one of my clamps as tight as I thought because I blew my intercooler tube smooth out of the boot. Put the black spring in and I'm still sitting around 80 psi. I noticed the new springs are about 2 links longer than the one I took out. Old spring idled around 55 which I believe is that the black spring is rated for? I've seen people have this issue before any ideas?
With that high of pressure it is almost certain the return spring is crossed in the FPR cap. Close to 80psi would be fairly close on the black Spring. I would recommend the gold spring which would put you in the mid 60 psi range.
Good news is my fuel pressure has settled down to 75 no changes just some spring break in I guess. Got rained out so didn't get a chance to to swap it again. Still higher than I'd like but getting closer to safe. Best news though the pass rear parker sleeve was my culprit once I got the upper off the turbo it was pretty clear it has been misting not enough to puddle but enough to coat the actuator for my ebpv. Fuel pressure rides steady on stock at wot and only 10 psi drop on 140 extreme. I rarely run that 1 unless the occasion calls for a smoke screen. I will say that one wasn't bad since I cleared the way to it. However I did not give my self any space with the driver side and I regretted that. Would of save some droped wrenches and cussing if I had slide the alt bracket foward
75 psi is high but not radically so, maybe the system can handle it.
Thinking Pete is right tho, spring is not seated properly. I had a similar issue. I used a cheap fuel cap and screwing it in sheared off a slender thread of plastic. That lodged itself into the teensy bleed hole on the FPR plunger. Presto 100 psi. Removed it and back to 65.
I’m running a motorcraft FPR rebuild kit from Clay. It has the “stock” silver spring from the 3 spring kit (purchased previously) and runs 72psi at idle, more than I desire. The gold spring was in first and higher. It’s been checked multiple times for the spring seating correctly. Still using the factory aluminum “cap”.
If the cap ever comes off again I’m putting the original spring back in it. Just figured that weak cap had been off too many times for comfort already so letting it ride for now.
From what I've read here, there, and wherever the injectors should be fine all the way up to 100 psi. After that you could be flirting with internal failure. Back before I deleted the bowl the original, to my knowledge, regulator was always holding 65# and would only drop 4-5 psi when you really laid into it. Now w/ the boost line hooked to the Aeromotive regulator set at 65# it will climb to nearly 90 psi if I flog it hard. I guess what I'm saying is if everything checks out with the bowl and regulator then I wouldn't loose much sleep over it. I also remember @Sous having a high pressure issue once upon a time. I want to say it was related to the return line connection being ever so slightly misaligned.
Someone mentioned that in competative events that involved high HP, it actually cost them if they ran too much fuel pressure. Something about the internals of the injectors not working as well within the higher pressure environment. I don't remember what the numbers were, but they found that returning to stock fuel pressures was actually a better thing.
Someone mentioned that in competative events that involved high HP, it actually cost them if they ran too much fuel pressure. Something about the internals of the injectors not working as well within the higher pressure environment. I don't remember what the numbers were, but they found that returning to stock fuel pressures was actually a better thing.
I'm not doing anything competitive, well unless you count beating that granny in the grocery getter off the line so I can get clear of their sight seeing tour, but yeah I never noticed any benefit from higher pressure. I do remember 100# being a kind of unconfirmed threshold though, from my reading.
I also remember @Sous having a high pressure issue once upon a time. I want to say it was related to the return line connection being ever so slightly misaligned.
That is an accurate statement.
The fuel return coming out of the FPR was misaligned by 1/64" - 1/32" and that was enough to case the 100 PSI gauge to be pegged at max. The line looked straight from a top down view and did not leak.
That said, a friend of mine replaced his FPR and internals with an OEM FPR this weekend. The included spring was slightly longer and provided 70 PSI at idle. He removed the new spring and installed the old one bringing the PSI down to 62.
I don't know why I thought the gold was the higher spring. I looked and I was wrong on that. So me putting the black one in to fix the high pressure was a little backwards. I definitely had it seated on the cap. I had the bowl out and could see it sitting in the little bevel but I didn't verify it wasn't maybe hanging up inside the popet. I'll pull it back apart this weekend if the weather allows and make sure it's sitting all the way in the popet. The fuel system on this truck has taught me alot. Mainly I don't like parker sleeves or suction side air leaks. It's definitely running alot better. I think I need a new clamp on my driver side intercooler boot. On the way home from work I decided a stress test was in order. Tube shot off around 26 psi.
You've got to go crackhead crazy cleaning the tubes and boots. No dirt, oil smudges, even finger prints all need to be gone. If your still wanting a little extra staying power you can hit them w/ a light coat of spray adhesive. Some guys swear hairspray is the bee's knees.
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