When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
But all those engines you showed have black blocks. Everything else is a purdy color.
Paint it all white. Leak diagnosis will be easy then
Only the last one. That was the only 7.3 block I ever painted black. Lately I don’t use black on anything....
Knock knock! Who’s there?? Rod #2, LET ME OUT OF HERE!! That one ended poorly.
One of my friends painted his block white recently with red accents (VC’s, etc). It was very, uh, Christmassy!! It actually looked really nice when fresh, but definitely a bold move!! Currently I think gray like @ESwift did is my favorite.
Only the last one. That was the only 7.3 block I ever painted black. Lately I don’t use black on anything....
Knock knock! Who’s there?? Rod #2, LET ME OUT OF HERE!! That one ended poorly.
One of my friends painted his block white recently with red accents (VC’s, etc). It was very, uh, Christmassy!! It actually looked really nice when fresh, but definitely a bold move!! Currently I think gray like @ESwift did is my favorite.
Did I read that right? N.ga Mtns? Like near the NC border? Im right over that border near Asheville NC... How much does your expertise cost in-person? lol
Eswift nailed it. I’ve swapped several L99 engines into E99 trucks.
The primary difference between these engines is the turbo setup. The E99 sits a little lower with a different pedestal, up-pipes and 5-way plenum. It also doesn’t have the intake air heater in the plenum and it has slightly smaller (‘AB’ code) injectors. The engines are typically rated for the same factory HP, so ‘smaller’ isn’t a big deal.
The E99 CAC (‘intercooler’) pipes are aluminum and subject to having holes worn in them. If available, I’d use the later model aluminized steel CAC pipes or consider a set of aftermarket CAC pipes/boots/clamps from the amazon, etc.
The up-pipes carry pressurized exhaust gasses to a collector and into the turbo. This pressure is what spins the turbo. The FORD design uses an exhaust ‘donut’ to allow thermal cycling (expansion/contraction) of the up-pipes as they go from ambient temp up to 1200*+ 1000’s of times in their lifespan. As the pipes grow and contract in length they slide through the donut seals and wear the metal down until they no longer seal tightly. You’ll see this in the form of black soot stains below the collector. These leaks rob the turbo of pressure it needs to spin and do it’s work.
International used a ‘bellow’ integrated into the up-pipe tubing to allow for thermal cycling. The bellows seal tightly and don’t have the wear problem the donut design does. Most aftermarket up-pipes use this design.
Depending on your climate, I would consider deleting the EBPV. This butterfly valve on the outlet of the exhaust from the turbo helps the truck warm up while sitting still/idling in cold weather.
At least replace/upgrade the fuel bowl water drain valve, if not a full reseal of all the fuel bowl o-rings and sleeves. Just order the ‘combo kit’ from our friends at dieselorings.com (be sure to check the box for upgraded water drain o-rings).
I always remove the clamps from the steel fuel lines that run from the filter to the heads. These will eventually wear holes in the lines.
Some people can install dirty engines in trucks. I do not suffer from this character flaw. Replacement engines are degreased and painted to make future diagnosis and repair easier/cleaner.
Just don’t use BLACK on the block. It makes it hard to see stuff....
Frikken awesome post Jason! Mega content. Tech Folder worthy.
Eswift nailed it. I’ve swapped several L99 engines into E99 trucks.
The primary difference between these engines is the turbo setup. The E99 sits a little lower with a different pedestal, up-pipes and 5-way plenum. It also doesn’t have the intake air heater in the plenum and it has slightly smaller (‘AB’ code) injectors. The engines are typically rated for the same factory HP, so ‘smaller’ isn’t a big deal.
The E99 CAC (‘intercooler’) pipes are aluminum and subject to having holes worn in them. If available, I’d use the later model aluminized steel CAC pipes or consider a set of aftermarket CAC pipes/boots/clamps from the amazon, etc.
The up-pipes carry pressurized exhaust gasses to a collector and into the turbo. This pressure is what spins the turbo. The FORD design uses an exhaust ‘donut’ to allow thermal cycling (expansion/contraction) of the up-pipes as they go from ambient temp up to 1200*+ 1000’s of times in their lifespan. As the pipes grow and contract in length they slide through the donut seals and wear the metal down until they no longer seal tightly. You’ll see this in the form of black soot stains below the collector. These leaks rob the turbo of pressure it needs to spin and do it’s work.
International used a ‘bellow’ integrated into the up-pipe tubing to allow for thermal cycling. The bellows seal tightly and don’t have the wear problem the donut design does. Most aftermarket up-pipes use this design.
Depending on your climate, I would consider deleting the EBPV. This butterfly valve on the outlet of the exhaust from the turbo helps the truck warm up while sitting still/idling in cold weather.
At least replace/upgrade the fuel bowl water drain valve, if not a full reseal of all the fuel bowl o-rings and sleeves. Just order the ‘combo kit’ from our friends at dieselorings.com (be sure to check the box for upgraded water drain o-rings).
I always remove the clamps from the steel fuel lines that run from the filter to the heads. These will eventually wear holes in the lines.
Some people can install dirty engines in trucks. I do not suffer from this character flaw. Replacement engines are degreased and painted to make future diagnosis and repair easier/cleaner.
Just don’t use BLACK on the block. It makes it hard to see stuff....
I agree! Awesome response, it is very much appreciated, and dually noted. I have purchased new UVCH, glow plugs, & up-pipes so far. I also have a new ICP, IPR, w/harnesses, fuel filter, and working on the rest. I am excited to get my truck back. I started it up today and the very minor knock I was hearing at low Rpms and as the RPMS slowed down has stopped after I added hot shots oil additive on my way home after hearing the noise. I know the issue is still there, the only difference is now I might be able to save on a tow bill by driving it to the shop(or at least get it closer to the shop) to get the engine replaced. I made a deal with the guy doing it that he will let me come by and do everything to it I can before installing. I'm going to paint the block and heads oxford white, and everything else a solid light grey,(like I said I'm in the collision repair industry, not mechanics.. so I'm going to prep the $&*T out of this block and lay the paint on nice, thick, and smooth while I've got the chance) install all the new parts I can and he's going to do the rest. I'm excited to get the project going. What do you guys think a reasonable amount of time would be for a guy to do this swap alone? I need my truck back ASAP but need to know I'm not asking about it too often or letting too much time go by without asking. As I will lose roughly $200 everyday this truck is down, but don't want to burn the guy out on me being an annoying customer. He says he will stand by his engine and his work, and from the sound of it he has done this kind of work many times before. Possibly on this exact truck... So for all I know it may not even have the original engine in it. Is there a way I can look at it and tell if its still an E99 engine? The day this thing gets done I'm going to pull the bed off of it and replace the fuel pump w/sending unit(always reads full) and paint the front of the bed/back of the cab in the GM black paint I'll be using for the "all-over". Pic of truck in its current position for attn.
I'll also be using spray-in bedliner for the lower portion of the entire truck(lowest body line, down.. not going over wheel wells) to protect it against common rust areas or rock chips.
Apologies for the drug out confusing paragraph of rambling.
I have to say it, are you sure it’s not just a fuel knock from air in the system? I can’t help but feel condemning the engine may be a little premature. Would you consider sharing more details of how it’s acting with us? Maybe a link to a YouTube video? SSJ is one of the 7.3 gurus.
Could the oil smoke just be from the injectors or orings? Or maybe it’s actually smoke from low fuel pressure? Does it use a lot of oil? Oil getting into fuel?
The fuel level always reading full is likely just due to a broken ground wire. Dads did this and had a broken wire over the tank. The pump itself is on the frame. I would consider doing the in tank mods SSJ recommends. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19216921
Show us a photo of the spyder and we should be able tell if it’s an E99, or at least if it still has E99 plenums on it.
Did I read that right? N.ga Mtns? Like near the NC border? Im right over that border near Asheville NC... How much does your expertise cost in-person? lol
I’m in Blairsville. You’re welcome to come by for consultation. I agree with RJWV, strong chance you don’t need an engine. I’ve had several trucks show up for engine replacement (diagnosed by others) that did not need it. I bought a few auction trucks CHEAP because they were wrongly condemned.
If you know you have ‘2-3 bad injectors’, there’s no harm in putting them in the condemned engine first to see if they solve the problem.
Originally Posted by Wes444
The cost of his expertise isn't the problem, it's the 9+ month waiting list
Unfortunately, this is the truth.... Currently overbooked for 2023 and the 2024 list is growing.
As far as engine swap time, I typically do them in 3 days. I’ve pulled an engine in as little as 2hrs, but 4-5hrs is more reasonable for someone who has pulled a few.
If you like the look of bedliner on the outside of cab, go for it. But, the ‘typical rust’ on these trucks starts on the inside of the panels and is limited to the rust belt trucks for the most part. If I was a paint/body man, I’d do a 2-tone paint job that allowed me to fix those lower body rock chips when they get bad enough without painting the whole truck. Good mud flaps go a long way at mitigating this as well as non-aggressive highway tread tires.
This was a 2hr engine pull. I normally don’t remove the grill and header panel, but I set up under the garage door for video and could not raise engine high enough to go over - so at the last minute I had to take that stuff off.
Any update for this adventure or are you too busy working on the truck in your other thread?
Originally Posted by KeepitRoostin658
Did I read that right? N.ga Mtns? Like near the NC border? Im right over that border near Asheville NC... How much does your expertise cost in-person? lol
Hey that’s where I purchased my truck some 12-13 years ago! 12 hour round trip.
05-28-2023, 08:50 AM
Currently overbooked for 2023 and the 2024 list is growing. 
