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Hello, I appreciate letting me finally join!I have been using this website for YEARS to help me along the way of Ford truck ownership on everything from a late 60's F100 to my 6.4 junker and everything in between.But today is the day, where I could not find a thread showing insight to my project. I have an awesome 99' F350 4x4 CCLB DRW 7.3 ZF6 truck that has unfortunately started giving me some major trouble. At 239k it's original motor is saying it's final goodbye. I am looking high and low and have finally found someone local to me that will help me swap it out and has an engine with low mileage.Only issue is, the motor is out of an 01? (Not for sure but I do know it's not an early 99') ...SOOO.. my question to all of you gents out there is this.... What do I have to do, to be able to swap every part of a L99-03 entire engine into my E99 truck. I'm having to get this truck back on the road ASAP as I use it for my business on the daily. If you have any advise to lend or can give any tips, tricks, insight...etc please let me know.I want to have everything lined up and ready to go so the truck doesn't have to just sit in the shop waiting on something.Ive seen when ordering parts it always asks if it's an early 99 or L99+ when it comes to injectors..etc.. so will a L99 work in my truck without a huge amount of work?Finding an E99 ready to swap in, isn't an option at this time. Thanks
@SkySkiJason and @ESwift are some of the experts for this. I’ll let them give you the details since I’m kinda shooting from the hip.
From the top of my head I can think of the spyder (and plenums), uppipes, turbo, pedestal, and air box I believe are all different.
That being said, I would consider using the L99-up stuff as it’s more common and usually cheaper. Can you get some of those parts with the engine?
FYI the E99 spyder is worth a pretty penny to the OBS folks for the ease of use when installing an inner cooler.
I would take this time to add bellowed uppipes. I believe this is an area where the L99 is a good bit cheaper.
Do you feel like $2500+ my old engine is worth trading for the L99+ engine (133k) + installation? I'll see if I can get him to put on the uppipes for me in the mean time. What would I look up? Bellowed uppipes 2003 7.3? I believe the L99 engine will come with absolutely everything.
Do you feel like $2500+ my old engine is worth trading for the L99+ engine (133k) + installation? I'll see if I can get him to put on the uppipes for me in the mean time. What would I look up? Bellowed uppipes 2003 7.3? I believe the L99 engine will come with absolutely everything.
If the l99 is a complete engine then drop it in and go. The e99 PCM really won't even notice the slightly larger injectors. Are you able to start and run this donor engine currently? Listening to it run and checking for smoke, checking temperatures, that kind of thing helps a good deal when determining the health of an engine. I wouldn't call the $2500 plus core a smoking deal, but you're not getting taken either. I'd have a hard time letting go of the core but I'm a parts hoarder too so grain of salt there. If he's willing to stand behind it at all then I say fair deal.
If the l99 is a complete engine then drop it in and go. The e99 PCM really won't even notice the slightly larger injectors. Are you able to start and run this donor engine currently? Listening to it run and checking for smoke, checking temperatures, that kind of thing helps a good deal when determining the health of an engine. I wouldn't call the $2500 plus core a smoking deal, but you're not getting taken either. I'd have a hard time letting go of the core but I'm a parts hoarder too so grain of salt there. If he's willing to stand behind it at all then I say fair deal.
This is the awesome type of info I've been hunting! The guy that is going to do the swap for me tried convincing me I wouldn't need the PCM out of a L99+. So I'm glad to hear that from someone else. Not quite sure he's willing to stand behind it if something were to go wrong but he says it's for sure a good motor. I wish I could have seen it run before hand, but I'll double check with him that there is no smoke. I kinda feel like he's getting a dang good deal by getting all of the E99 parts off of my truck as someone else had mentioned some of the OBS guys like to have those parts and that's what this guy does for a living; recycle parts. I have heard mixed reviews of his business but the truck I own(the one he's going to do all of this work on) is actually his old truck. So maybe he will do me right, we will see!
Oh one thing to note is the connecting rods. Your e99 has forged steel but somewhere in 01 the switched to powdered metal rods. The PMR are ok, but not as strong for sure. Only really an issue if you've got plans for big power. I think the agreed upon hp limit is around 500 ponies so if you're not planning any competitive motor sports then should be fine.
I just did this last fall
Basically a simple swap and go. Swap the complete newer engine in, use your existing e99 engine harness, swap your e99 gpr and bracket in place of the later grp/aih and bracket.
zero need to change the pcm.
price isnt bad at $2,500 plus he gets your old core, there is a good bit of money in parting out/sending things in for cores, which is likely why he wants it.
I would make sure the later engine has or gets bellowed up pipes during this swap, also a good time to do any turbo work - rebuild with a kc balanced assembly possibly.. It is also a good time to check the uvch and swap in new glow plugs, freshen up hpop and fuel lines small stuff like that
I just did this last fall
Basically a simple swap and go. Swap the complete newer engine in, use your existing e99 engine harness, swap your e99 gpr and bracket in place of the later grp/aih and bracket.
zero need to change the pcm.
price isnt bad at $2,500 plus he gets your old core, there is a good bit of money in parting out/sending things in for cores, which is likely why he wants it.
I would make sure the later engine has or gets bellowed up pipes during this swap, also a good time to do any turbo work - rebuild with a kc balanced assembly possibly.. It is also a good time to check the uvch and swap in new glow plugs, freshen up hpop and fuel lines small stuff like that
Awesome, I appreciate the info. Any tips on where to purchase the uppipes?
Awesome, I appreciate the info. Any tips on where to purchase the uppipes?
Cheap EBay/amazon uppipes work fine. Test fit the dowel pin to the turbo on the bench before install though. A quick look earlier today had sets for around $100.
Like udsuth, I’m a parts hoarder and would have a hard time letting the core go. But the fella is likely counting on all those parts as part of the payment. Might ask him the cost if you keep it. Rough guess on some of these parts selling price is spyder $250, HPOP core $200, injectors core $200.
Cheap EBay/amazon uppipes work fine. Test fit the dowel pin to the turbo on the bench before install though. A quick look earlier today had sets for around $100.
Like udsuth, I’m a parts hoarder and would have a hard time letting the core go. But the fella is likely counting on all those parts as part of the payment. Might ask him the cost if you keep it. Rough guess on some of these parts selling price is spyder $250, HPOP core $200, injectors core $200.
So what’s wrong with your current engine?
It developed a very minor knock at low Rpms or just after letting off the throttle. It smokes like a freight train(oil smoke) it needs new injectors as well. #3 & #4 gave up earlier in the week. Guess it could be IDM.. it has new UVCH. But yeah mainly just the knock. Also, what's all the fuzz about these uppipes? What do I gain from them or why does everyone recommend getting bellowed uppipes?
Also the factory up pipe design doesn't have any type of expansion joint. Things move when they get hot if you don't give them somewhere to flex eventually they make one.
Eswift nailed it. I’ve swapped several L99 engines into E99 trucks.
The primary difference between these engines is the turbo setup. The E99 sits a little lower with a different pedestal, up-pipes and 5-way plenum. It also doesn’t have the intake air heater in the plenum and it has slightly smaller (‘AB’ code) injectors. The engines are typically rated for the same factory HP, so ‘smaller’ isn’t a big deal.
The E99 CAC (‘intercooler’) pipes are aluminum and subject to having holes worn in them. If available, I’d use the later model aluminized steel CAC pipes or consider a set of aftermarket CAC pipes/boots/clamps from the amazon, etc.
The up-pipes carry pressurized exhaust gasses to a collector and into the turbo. This pressure is what spins the turbo. The FORD design uses an exhaust ‘donut’ to allow thermal cycling (expansion/contraction) of the up-pipes as they go from ambient temp up to 1200*+ 1000’s of times in their lifespan. As the pipes grow and contract in length they slide through the donut seals and wear the metal down until they no longer seal tightly. You’ll see this in the form of black soot stains below the collector. These leaks rob the turbo of pressure it needs to spin and do it’s work.
International used a ‘bellow’ integrated into the up-pipe tubing to allow for thermal cycling. The bellows seal tightly and don’t have the wear problem the donut design does. Most aftermarket up-pipes use this design.
Depending on your climate, I would consider deleting the EBPV. This butterfly valve on the outlet of the exhaust from the turbo helps the truck warm up while sitting still/idling in cold weather.
At least replace/upgrade the fuel bowl water drain valve, if not a full reseal of all the fuel bowl o-rings and sleeves. Just order the ‘combo kit’ from our friends at dieselorings.com (be sure to check the box for upgraded water drain o-rings).
I always remove the clamps from the steel fuel lines that run from the filter to the heads. These will eventually wear holes in the lines.
Some people can install dirty engines in trucks. I do not suffer from this character flaw. Replacement engines are degreased and painted to make future diagnosis and repair easier/cleaner.
Just don’t use BLACK on the block. It makes it hard to see stuff....
Your E99 ZF6 may have the old design clutch fork that is subject to bending. Consider upgrading this to the newer, stronger design.
If you aren’t replacing the clutch, consider at least replacing the throw out bearing and DEFINITELY get an Oilite Bronze pilot bushing from @ArmyLifer.
I also strongly recommend adding a drain tube to the valley drain. The valley currently drains into the bellhousing area and fuel/oil leaks on top of the engine can contaminate the clutch, causing it to slip. Here’s how forum member Tristan did it recently.
Also, to reinstall an engine in a ZF6 truck - most people remove the transmission because there is not enough clearance between the oil pan and crossmember to get the input shaft lined up for install. Instead of dropping transmission, I remove all but the rear cab bolts and lift the front of cab a few inches. This allows the transmission to go high enough to line up with the engine.
05-27-2023, 11:07 AM
