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Thanks for all the good info. I will be pulling the turbo also now. When I did the head studs 2 years ago the turbo was cleaned and everything looked good with it. But I don’t drive my truck in the winter because I am from northern Illinois and they put way too much salt on the roads so it is very possible that could be a problem also. So for the piece of mind I will be pulling it.
Thanks, I love learning new stuff. I am very mechanical and don’t pay people to do stuff for me unless I just don’t have the time to do it. I am retired, but anyone who is retired will say they are busier now then when they worked. Again thanks for the link, I will be checking it out tonight after I get back from the Drag Strip, it’s race day and I don’t miss a weekend when I can get the race car out for some fun.
Thanks, I love learning new stuff. I am very mechanical and don’t pay people to do stuff for me unless I just don’t have the time to do it. I am retired, but anyone who is retired will say they are busier now then when they worked. Again thanks for the link, I will be checking it out tonight after I get back from the Drag Strip, it’s race day and I don’t miss a weekend when I can get the race car out for some fun.
Thanks
Dave
Hi Dave,
Well, my turbo cleaned up ok but even though it only had 49000 miles on it, I still decided to replace it. It's probably good for another 3-5 years. but I just decided to replace it with a new one since they have updated them to a certain degree.
Now with the new turbo, I don't see an EBP higher than 48 PSI (17psi at idle) and the boost doesn't exceed around 22-24PSI even at WOT (wide open throttle) where it was nearly 30 PSI before. Plus with the stuck vane system, it made the transmission shift at strange points.
All in all, I think replacing the turbo was the best choice. I also replaced the (flex) oil feed line with the solid steel one. The Kit from KC turbos comes with new gaskets and O-rings for the oil feed and both ends of the drain line
I had a heck of a time getting it re-installed. Unbeknownst to me the clamp for the Y-pipe was interfering with the last 1/4" going into place. Once I found that it fell into place. I almost had as much trouble getting the aircleaner re-installed!!
Knowing what I know now, I wouldn't hesitate to do it again!
Size of exhaust, Cat still there or not, and same with muffler will all impact the EBP.
4” exhaust with the cats and muffler. I have to do the thermostat tomorrow so I’m going to go ahead and pull the EBP sensor and tube and clean them. Even if they don’t need need to be cleaned it won’t hurt to just do it. It will give me piece of mind knowing that they are done.
Exhaust Back Pressure sensor. It is a pressure sensor that is on the end of a tube that connects to the drivers side exhaust manifold. There were different tube designs (and sensor designs) for a few model years, so the exact location of the sensor (and its hold-down bracket) varies a little bit.
Size of exhaust, Cat still there or not, and same with muffler will all impact the EBP.
I have the complete and original exhaust system on mine. With only roughly 50,000 miles, would "cleaning the cat" decrease backpressure @ higher throttle settings or does 48 PSI (with about 17psi @ idle) sound about right?
I think you said that earlier....but the only difference I have now (EBP) with a NON-frozen unison ring is a slightly lower EBP at WOT.
Well I found my problem. The truck was also getting a bit hotter then I liked. I pulled my water pump and sure enough the impeller broke free. Just ordered a new pump with the 100mm steel impeller. Only reason I found that is because I have read many things about that impeller failing so I figured I would just go ahead and replace it now while I was working on it. Didn’t want it to have a problem when I was pulling my race trailer to the track and then miss a points race. Thank you to everyone that helped me with their input on my EBP, give me a piece of mind that it was within range.