Here is everybody a bolt on upgrade.

https://ssbc-usa.com/products/a193-1

 

that looks awesome. I wonder how much better stopping power would be. Probably hotter rotors but, it's going to stop when you tell it to I'm sure! If I was Towing super heavy all the time I probably would do something like that!

 

I have it. It is awesome. With these, the limit to your braking ability is how much traction your tires have.

 

Worth the money then? As good As a newer 6.7?

 

I don’t know about the 6.7 part since I have never driven one but I can lock my brakes up pretty effortlessly. I’d say they were worth the money. Mine were a scratch n dent set for cheap though.

 

I have been running slotted, drilled or both rotors on my vehicles for over 25 years and have never seen a failure like what has been reported above, but maybe I am just lucky in that respect. This is everything from sports cars to the 2000 7.3L PSD used as a tow pig.

On a side note, I tried EBC Yellow Stuff pads with a set of slotted StopTech rotors on our 2008 Subaru Tribeca. This vehicle has the same performance brakes that the WRX STi had on it during that year of production. Here we are less than 10,000 miles later and the StopTech rotors are warped and pulse so badly between 35 MPH and 45 MPH that I am looking to replace them. Perhaps it was the EBC Yellow Stuff pads or perhaps it was the StopTech rotors that are too harsh or too weak for the other hard part, I don't know. I put slotted StopTech rotors on my truck paired with HAWK SD pads (previously had LTS for 55,000 miles) and the pair has performed flawlessly towing our 5th wheel. Even over the Rocky Mountains a couple of times and all around the eastern mountains.

I am disappointed by the warping of the rotors on the Subaru and it is a pain in the butt (wallet) to have to pay for a new set of brakes so soon, but it is a safety factor in my opinion. I don't blame the EBC Yellow Stuff pads or the StopTech rotors individually, I blame them both for not playing nice.

For the Subaru, I am looking at OEM Subaru (Akebono) or the Bosch Quiet Cast that BigMacWelds mentioned above for both the pads and rotors. The rear of the Subaru will retain the slotted rotors it has had for the past 100,000 miles or so.

I have no issues at all with drilled or slotted rotors being on any of my vehicles, but maybe I have been lucky or ignorant in that respect.

My .05 raised up from .02 due to the inflation that our government says is not affecting the economy.

 

carbon fiber rotor rely upon their inherent ability to shed heat faster then steel or cast steel rotors vice mass as a heat sink. the holes and slots on them are to capture the imagination of fan boy ... My company has a macan, and a aventador.

Don't worry folks both are tax write offs, we are a ships chandler company (husbandry agency) so we buy them cheap and write them off. as vehicles we use for the company.
as a 10% owner i can check out any of them for the weekend. though its more of a majority owners personal fetish. (not mine) fast enough is fast enough and for me that ends at the 3rd gen RX-7 level for the track. (maybe a corvette..)
one of them which I give no cares about, has cast hole (not drilled) and cast slotted out of the factory. but they are carbon fiber. the rules are different. cast steel or steel rotors depend upon mass as a sink for the heat.. carbon fiber works upon the cooling co-efficient of the material. not so much the mass... the rest is all marketing.

not trying to be a dick to the earlier posts, but for normal cars and trucks slotted and drilled are worthless, just as they are worthless on a Lamborghini ... its marketing. the carbon rotors are cast that way out of the factory so there are no stress risers to crack.

 

@BigMacWelds , during my shopping of Quiet Cast brake parts I found that Rock Auto has the best deal by far for our Subaru. Nearly 50% the cost of other resellers. Also, they are running a promotion until the 26th on Bosch rotors and pads as seen in the link below.

Link: https://www.rockauto.com/lang/en/promo.html

 

Sous, ironically I just ordered my BOSCH Quiet Cast rotors/pads from Rock Auto. Yes...quite a good deal there. It's all about getting quality parts for cheaper money. They arrived on-time and I saved some cash. I think you'll like the way they perform. Good luck and enjoy!

 

I have a set of these on the shelf right now for a customer’s Excursion.

This was my experience driving a 7.3 with this set-up. Incredible stopping power. But, the retail price makes it hard to justify the expense.

I used to run the Bosch rotors (lifetime warranty) until o’riellys stopped carrying them. I’ve been putting the Duralast Gold (coated) rotors on customer trucks since then and no complaints.

I use Duralast calipers and inspect everything at each tire rotation and before pad changes. If I see a deteriorated dust seal or caliper piston feels sticky, I swap calipers with no questions asked.

At a minimum, brake fluid gets changed at pad swap or any other component change. Just evacuate the dirty fluid from reservoir and refill with FRESH fluid (unopened container!). Then, open all (4) bleeder screws and let system gravity bleed until you see fresh fluid at each corner. Don’t let MC go dry! Close the bleeders and rock on until next time.

On that note, avoid letting system run dry at all costs. I always install new caliper, then swap the brake hose over from old caliper. Then, gravity bleed until you don’t see bubbles. This leaves very little of the conventional ‘2-person bleed method’ left to do. Also, NEVER let the brake pedal go to the floor when bleeding. Use a block of wood to limit travel to normal usage. Forcing the MC piston to travel past ‘normal’ will often damage the seals as rust has formed on the cylinder walls in that area. This will require MC to be replaced unnecessarily.

The ABS system on these trucks has a ‘self bleed’ feature that is accessed with a scan tool. When activated, the tool tells you to apply pressure to brake pedal and then allows pedal to travel to the floor before the ABS pump pushes it back up. Pretty clever and it works - avoiding the conventional 2-man method. But, it allows that MC piston to travel to places you may not want it to go - so beware if using on a 20+ yr old system.

 

Protip: Anti-sieze the bejeezus out of the bleeder nipples before installing those calipers.

 

running power stop slotted drilled since 4-2020 and some 80K many towing miles with a 8300 lb airstream... now i do have the EBPV feature set up to help with desent control on long grades.. no issues when i look at brakes and rotors during tire rotate etc.. they hit like a fricken anchor when you need them.. I try to not use brakes much..

hghly recommend a good product will be cheaper in teh long run.. congrats on getting out.. former army guy ..

 

I agree with EBC Yellow pads. I have stock calipers and nothing else I have used compares to them. The biggest difference between the yellow pads and other pads that I have noticed is how they work cold. Most need a little warm up before you see effective stopping power but not with the yellow pads. Riffraff has great pricing on them as well.

 

@BigMacWelds , I am very happy with the Bosch Quiet Cast rotors and pads on the Subaru I just installed them on. I just completed the bed in process, the bite when cold is very good and they truly are quiet. I could only hear the tire friction with the window down.

If they continue to perform this well in the future, they will become my go to brake parts. Thanks for inadvertently giving me a bit of a nudge.

 

You bet! Enjoy!