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Old Mar 17, 2018 | 09:29 PM
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Power Stop Brake Kits

Has anyone tried them? They have 3 levels, Daily Driver, Performance and Street/Track. I need to do something soon, got hot spots on the rotors. Power Stop Z23 Brake Kit - Rotors & Pads - FREE SHIPPING!

My other thought was OEM. I did get good service out of the OEM.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2018 | 10:27 PM
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I put their Severe Duty kit on, I bought their calipers from Summit racing. They work very good, absolutely no problem stopping the truck empty or loaded. However, I'll never buy anything from Rockauto again...****ting packaging, even worse customer service.

More Information for POWER STOP K286836
 
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Old Mar 17, 2018 | 10:57 PM
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I'm using there z36 Kit on all 4 corners with their calipers on the front for over a year now with no issues.
Got mine from auto anything as well, wouldn't hesitate to buy them again once I wear this set of pads out.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 05:28 AM
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I used powerstop brake kits on my excursion with calipers since I had a couple locked up and they worked great. I liked them enough to use them on my dually, a job which I am actually finishing today. I went with the ceramic brake kit, not the drilled and slotted because it saved me about 500 bucks I paid $272 for pads and rotors from autoanything, and they had free shipping they showed up at my house in 2 days.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 06:09 AM
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Got mine from Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-k1906-36
Truck has been stopping smooth and quietly for 4 years. I would definitely by them again.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 06:42 AM
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I've been running the front/rear severe kit w/o the calipers. Used Napa calipers. I would skip the drilled/slotted rotors because when towing and with some hear, I have pulsation. It goes away unloaded and with cool rotors, but when I need them most, they pulsate pretty hard. I'd suggest full blanks from Motorcraft, Hawk pads, and calipers from Napa (1999) vintage for stainless steel pistons.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by SRBF150
I've been running the front/rear severe kit w/o the calipers. Used Napa calipers. I would skip the drilled/slotted rotors because when towing and with some hear, I have pulsation. It goes away unloaded and with cool rotors, but when I need them most, they pulsate pretty hard. I'd suggest full blanks from Motorcraft, Hawk pads, and calipers from Napa (1999) vintage for stainless steel pistons.
Interesting. Which Hawk pads do you use?
 
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 10:12 AM
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I bought Powerstop through RA, rear rotors and pads. A few weeks later one of my calipers hung up and destroyed a rotor. I decided to buy a pair of calipers directly from Powerstop and they replaced the rotor for free. Great customer service from them.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 12:10 PM
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Their customer service is top notch. I bought rotors pads and calipers for my excursion a few years ago, and because of the year it had a leading and a trailing caliper. The kit came with 2 of the same, so I called and they overnighted me the correct caliper free of charge so my vehicle wouldn't be down any longer. That sold me on them.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 12:51 PM
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I was thinking of just replacing the pads and rotors but I see a lot of you replace the calipers as well. My calipers seem to be fine, pads got a little thin and rotors got hot. No rust at all here, I would clean and lube the slide pins but is there any reason I am missing why I should replace the calipers? If I go that route I may as well do the rubber lines as well. How hard is it to bleed with ABS?
 
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bigb56
I was thinking of just replacing the pads and rotors but I see a lot of you replace the calipers as well. My calipers seem to be fine, pads got a little thin and rotors got hot. No rust at all here, I would clean and lube the slide pins but is there any reason I am missing why I should replace the calipers? If I go that route I may as well do the rubber lines as well. How hard is it to bleed with ABS?
the calipers on these have a bad track record of pistons seizing. If they're hard to compress or if you have significant brake drag, it's super easy to just replace the caliper. I didn't replace all 4 this time, just the one that was seized. When you have severe brake drag, it could be a stuck piston or a deteriorated rubber line. The lines are cheap, so it's easy to replace and it's cheap insurance to make sure your new calipers don't hang up. Plus you'll already have the system open.

bleeding is a piece of cake. I did all 4 wheels in about 20 minutes after replacing a caliper. Any time you open the system you should bleed all 4 wheels just to be safe. Plus it gets old fluid out.
1. Start at the right rear, then do left rear, then right front, then left front is last.
2. Put a 10mm box end wrench on the bleeder
3. Put a piece of tube about 2 feet long on the bleeder. Clear is best.
4. Put a LITTLE brake fluid in a clear bottle
5. Put the other end of the tube into the bottle and make sure it it submerged
6. Crack the bleeder and have someone pump the brake pedal continuously. Make sure the tube stays submerged you will see it bubble, then you will get a stream of fluid. Keep pumping until you fill the bottle with clear fluid to make sure the old scrap is out. No need to close the bleeder in between pumps, just leave it own until your bottle is full then close it
7. Make sure you don't let the master cylinder run dry or you'll have to bleed the abs module.
8. Do all r wheels, test the brakes and then bed your new pads!

super simple. Just make sure the truck isn't running when you are bleeding the brakes ask me how I know...lol
 
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 01:10 PM
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When I did my rear calipers the truck was maybe two years old to me. The pass side had seized going down the highway after a hard braking, when I got it apart later there was scoring on the piston. So got a new pair since I didn't know the service history on them. Actually, the only reason I got the calipers from PS was I called them to see about replacing just the one rotor, as they only list them in pairs and it was only a month old (maybe the caliper was my fault). They mentioned they sold calipers as well, essentially OEM equivalent but with bright red paint. And then they included the free replacement rotor. It was a no brainer to go with them.

Calipers aren't difficult to rebuild, I really think the major cause of caliper failures are slide pin related. If it doesn't slide right, it doesn't grab right, things get hot, rubber seals fail.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by afmedic
the calipers on these have a bad track record of pistons seizing. If they're hard to compress or if you have significant brake drag, it's super easy to just replace the caliper. I didn't replace all 4 this time, just the one that was seized. When you have severe brake drag, it could be a stuck piston or a deteriorated rubber line. The lines are cheap, so it's easy to replace and it's cheap insurance to make sure your new calipers don't hang up. Plus you'll already have the system open.

bleeding is a piece of cake. I did all 4 wheels in about 20 minutes after replacing a caliper. Any time you open the system you should bleed all 4 wheels just to be safe. Plus it gets old fluid out.
1. Start at the right rear, then do left rear, then right front, then left front is last.
2. Put a 10mm box end wrench on the bleeder
3. Put a piece of tube about 2 feet long on the bleeder. Clear is best.
4. Put a LITTLE brake fluid in a clear bottle
5. Put the other end of the tube into the bottle and make sure it it submerged
6. Crack the bleeder and have someone pump the brake pedal continuously. Make sure the tube stays submerged you will see it bubble, then you will get a stream of fluid. Keep pumping until you fill the bottle with clear fluid to make sure the old scrap is out. No need to close the bleeder in between pumps, just leave it own until your bottle is full then close it
7. Make sure you don't let the master cylinder run dry or you'll have to bleed the abs module.
8. Do all r wheels, test the brakes and then bed your new pads!

super simple. Just make sure the truck isn't running when you are bleeding the brakes ask me how I know...lol
I was thinking ABS would be different after hearing the guys on the Mercedes forum discussing it. Do our trucks use DOT 4? I have a Mighty Vac but never tried it on brakes.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by bigb56
I was thinking of just replacing the pads and rotors but I see a lot of you replace the calipers as well. My calipers seem to be fine, pads got a little thin and rotors got hot. No rust at all here, I would clean and lube the slide pins but is there any reason I am missing why I should replace the calipers? If I go that route I may as well do the rubber lines as well. How hard is it to bleed with ABS?
I went that route when I did mine and within 2 months of doing pads and rotors one of my rear calipers seized {original equipment) and got real hot. It wasn't locked tight, but it was dragging enough that you could smell it after a 2hour trip at 65 MPH.
Went through 3/4 of the pad on that rotor. (Slotted and drilled) In a pinch i got 2 rear calipers from AZ, and ordered front calipers from Autoanything and another set of rear pads. Blew all the dust out of holes and slots in the rotor on the wheel that seized, replaced the rear pads on that wheel, swapped front calipers /pads, haven't looked back. No pulsing what so ever, I'm sold on the Power Stop slotted drilled rotors. No issues with the z36 pads either unloaded or towing my tractor, approximately 7000 pound load.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2018 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bigb56
I was thinking ABS would be different after hearing the guys on the Mercedes forum discussing it. Do our trucks use DOT 4? I have a Mighty Vac but never tried it on brakes.
the cap calls for dot3. And is hard to bleed if you get air in it, but if you keep the cylinder full and don't have any other problems it's that easy
 
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