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alright everyone heres the deal, i got a 1990 f250 with the 300 6, the engine needs rebuilding and im looking for more power, its gotta run on speed density injection and cheap gas (87 oct). Heres what i thought of so far
.030 bore pistons with crome molly rings
ported head
gasket matched intakes
performance cam
header with free flowing exaust
more compression (flat tops or head milling)
what do you guys think? what would you do? is this stuff gonna work with speed density? how much (if any) can i boost the compression
i wouldnt up the comp too much if you want to stay with reg. 87 octane pump gas, maybe up to around 9.5:1 max, that may be pushing it. 10.5:1 is about the limit for 93 octane i think, on the other end of the scale.
but the mods you have listed should work fine with the FI, those who have done those types of mods have done little to none computer work to make it work, just dont expect it to run perfect the first couple hundred miles, it takes a bit o time for the computer to get used to the new stuff.
That sounds like a great start to a built 300, you also might concider polishing the intake as well. I can't remember who did it, but someone on this site installed a throttle body off a 460 on his 300. It took some modification but he made it work and had noticable performance gains. eric1970...chrome moly rings are indeed available for the 300. I used full chrome rings in my 300 build up. Up coming mods for my motor include: Holley 2300 2bbl carb and polished EFI split manifolds. As is I estimate my 300 is running around 200-215 hp and 325-340 tq I am still running stock carb and exhaust manifold. Good luck with your build up!
i'm gonna be doing work to my spare motor, as well...
The Things I Know I Want To Do To My Motor:
deck the block
minimum bore possible(want to get more bores outta the motor)
port/polish head
true dual exhaust
4bbl carb/manifold
performance cam
K&N air filter
I'm also planning to change to a late 80's/early 90's ZF 5spd transmission out of a 3/4 ton, and I want to put dana 44's or 60's front and rear with 3:73 gearing...I read in one post that going with this gearing would put the rpm's in the heart of the powerband for the 300-6...
All of this, I want to put under a 80-86 F-250 4x4 frame and body...
MontanaFord
What I Have: 1984 F-150 4x4 T-18 4 spd 3:55 gearing 297,000 original miles (to my knowledge) very very tired motor
What I'm Planning: 80-86 F-250 4x4 (Dana 44 or 60's w/ 3:73 gearing) 300-6 built, and ZF 5 Spd Manual to give me my granny and OD gears
I wouldnt put anything less then the 60's under that f-250
by the sounds of it your looking for something to play in the mud, but also take a beating for hauling. those 44's wont hold up. What i would recommend is find a dana 60 for the front, and put a 9" in the back. get yourself a better transfer case then the BW that comes in the f-150's, and run 4.10's with bigger tires
I had a bad problem when I put a bigger cam in my EFI the specs are .451, .475, 270 intake duration, 280 exhauast, it threw my computer way off, they told me that it is actually making less power than it would with the stock one, what should I do? it runs really rich now
I had a bad problem when I put a bigger cam in my EFI the specs are .451, .475, 270 intake duration, 280 exhauast, it threw my computer way off, they told me that it is actually making less power than it would with the stock one, what should I do? it runs really rich now
I think diablo or predator will make you a custom chip, to work with your cam and such, i recomend that.
i have a crane powermax truck cam in mine (272/272) and it didnt mess w/ the computer and gave a nice performance gain. anything in the 260-270 range will be a nice "torque" cam.
i also plan the same mods when i eventually build a spare 6 for my truck but im gunna go one step further and add some #19 injectors, ***** chip, 3 angle valve job and roller rockers. i estimate about 275-300 hp depending on the headwork i have done/do myself.
those 44's wont hold up. find a dana 60 for the front, and put a 9" in the back.
Huh? I have a D44HD straightaxle sitting in the front of my F-250, and have had zero problems. A D44 is not weak. Maybe the Jeep ones are, but the 3500# unit, with D60 outers and 28 spline axles from the factory is very strong. A 9" will frag well before this front axle will.
The 9" is a great axle, but it has small diameter shafts. It takes about $800-$1000 to get a 9" up to the strength of a STOCK D60 full floater.
The best t-case is the NP241HD found in 94-up Dodge 3/4 tons with a diesel. It bolts up wherever a 208 will, and your stock linkage works.
As far as running low grade gas, keep the stock 8.7:1 compression. I have 9.5:1, and I have to run premium. For overall upgrades, the best thing to do is first figure out where you want your power at. If you want low end grunt, keep the intake all stock, maybe drop in an RV cam. Knock the second cat off, and go with a 3" tailpipe.
If you want high-end power, have large valves installed in the head, bowl port the head, gasket match everything, run shorty headers (may have to have made), a blueracer cam, and true dual exhaust with a crossover. But this setup will not be good on the street.
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