electrical problems
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6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2023
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electrical problems
i have a 1989 f-150 5.0 and i’m lost. it runs fine till you turn the headlights on. it didn’t start doing it till i put a new distributor in it. i will be driving and i turn my headlights on and you get over 2000 rpm it’s like everything dies even the motor and it won’t cut back on until i push the clutch in i’ve tried multiple things and still can’t get it figured out and now my headlights won’t even turn on i put a new switch in it and went through the wiring and replaced the fuse and they will cut on for a minute then cuts off and they won’t turn on same for the radio and interior lights. but when you it is warmed up fully it is fine.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
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From: Mojave, Ca
You have two ground terminals to check.
The first one is behind the driver-side headlight.
The second one is by the battery on the inner fender well.
1. Remove the screw that holds the ground wires.
2. Shine up the sheet metal and the terminals with a small wire brush.
3. Reconnect everything back together.
Let us know if that fixes your problem.
The first one is behind the driver-side headlight.
The second one is by the battery on the inner fender well.
1. Remove the screw that holds the ground wires.
2. Shine up the sheet metal and the terminals with a small wire brush.
3. Reconnect everything back together.
Let us know if that fixes your problem.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 219
From: Northwest
Do you have a dimmer switch on the floor ?
Do some reading here... similar issues.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...9-f-150-a.html
Do some reading here... similar issues.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...9-f-150-a.html
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,199
From: Mojave, Ca
Yep. That's a weird one. My first thought is a mis-routed engine block ground and loose transmission bell housing bolts. Pressing the clutch separates the engine from the transmission slightly if the bolts are loose, and may restore a bad block ground.
You can test this by adding a extra ground from your alternator bracket to your negative battery terminal. See if that fixes the problem. And check your bell housing bolts for tightness. Please take a photo of your engine compartment and post it here.
Do you have to press the clutch to start the engine?
You can test this by adding a extra ground from your alternator bracket to your negative battery terminal. See if that fixes the problem. And check your bell housing bolts for tightness. Please take a photo of your engine compartment and post it here.
Do you have to press the clutch to start the engine?
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6th Gear
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Mojave, Ca
Try some of my other suggestions. And take a good look at your negative battery cable where it connects to your block.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,199
From: Mojave, Ca
Stick a fork in it. It's done.
Time to use the part number off it to find a new one.
If you're good with electronics and you want a science project, you might be able to use some isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush to clean up the corrosion, and replace the capacitors. But it's faster and easier to find a working on on rockauto, eBay, or junkyard.
But that doesn't explain why your headlights and dash died. Those have nothing to do with the ECU.
I still think you have a grounding issue. Try running a secondary ground between the alternator bracket and the negative battery terminal clamp.
Time to use the part number off it to find a new one.
If you're good with electronics and you want a science project, you might be able to use some isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush to clean up the corrosion, and replace the capacitors. But it's faster and easier to find a working on on rockauto, eBay, or junkyard.
But that doesn't explain why your headlights and dash died. Those have nothing to do with the ECU.
I still think you have a grounding issue. Try running a secondary ground between the alternator bracket and the negative battery terminal clamp.
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