2017 SD250 keep or move it
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
2017 SD250 keep or move it
Have a 2017SD250 4WD with 90K, have had the front end rebuilt 3x because of the death wobble, has had exhaust sensor replaced, now waiting to have the seal at the end of the tranny replaced, for most part has bee good truck. Should I just get an additional warranty to cover me past 100K or look for something else. For you guys that have had these for longer miles, anything I should look out for. My dealer has always been good to work with.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 768
Likes: 184
From: Knightstown Indiana
I had a 2016 that went 335,000 before the CP4 gave way. I sold that truck to a friend of my son, who repaired it and has t had any issues. I replaced it with a 2020, which has 70,000, and has been problem free.
Ultimately the choice is yours, but in my opinion the early alumiduties are the way to go. I have no reservations, and have never had an extended warranty on any of my SD’s
edit:
if you’ve rebuilt the front end 3 times in 90k, either your tire/wheel combo is excessive, or you need to find a better alignment/chassis shop. My 2020 is stock and tight, and on my 2016 I only replaced the passenger side tie rod end and had an alignment done.
Ultimately the choice is yours, but in my opinion the early alumiduties are the way to go. I have no reservations, and have never had an extended warranty on any of my SD’s
edit:
if you’ve rebuilt the front end 3 times in 90k, either your tire/wheel combo is excessive, or you need to find a better alignment/chassis shop. My 2020 is stock and tight, and on my 2016 I only replaced the passenger side tie rod end and had an alignment done.
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 31,795
Likes: 9,122
From: Western NY
Centramatic wheel balancers
Check these out for your truck
https://www.centramatic.com/wheel-ba...Number=300-318
These are the model number that are on my truck. Night and day difference with these on. My buddy's 2019 F350 6.7 standard cab truck was in twice for death wobble issues. I think it's more common with the newer Alumina Duty trucks but it is possible with any vehicle with a SFA.
https://www.centramatic.com/wheel-ba...Number=300-318
These are the model number that are on my truck. Night and day difference with these on. My buddy's 2019 F350 6.7 standard cab truck was in twice for death wobble issues. I think it's more common with the newer Alumina Duty trucks but it is possible with any vehicle with a SFA.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 769
Likes: 156
I had a 2016 that went 335,000 before the CP4 gave way. I sold that truck to a friend of my son, who repaired it and has t had any issues. I replaced it with a 2020, which has 70,000, and has been problem free.
Ultimately the choice is yours, but in my opinion the early alumiduties are the way to go. I have no reservations, and have never had an extended warranty on any of my SD’s
edit:
if you’ve rebuilt the front end 3 times in 90k, either your tire/wheel combo is excessive, or you need to find a better alignment/chassis shop. My 2020 is stock and tight, and on my 2016 I only replaced the passenger side tie rod end and had an alignment done.
Ultimately the choice is yours, but in my opinion the early alumiduties are the way to go. I have no reservations, and have never had an extended warranty on any of my SD’s
edit:
if you’ve rebuilt the front end 3 times in 90k, either your tire/wheel combo is excessive, or you need to find a better alignment/chassis shop. My 2020 is stock and tight, and on my 2016 I only replaced the passenger side tie rod end and had an alignment done.
I don't understand front end being rebuilt 3 times unless the shop doing the work didn't understand how to fix it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 7,955
Likes: 4,039
Agreed with the above post. You've been snookered by a shop who doesn't understand the cause of the issue. Track bar bushing and ball joint are the underlying issue, the Caster the cause. If there is just the right amount of slop in the bushing or ball joint of both, and the Caster is set to 3* or less, a hard bump can start a wheel to oscillate. Once that happens it becomes a hands full trying to stop it.
Think of the wobbly wheels on a shopping cart and that is what the truck is doing. Increasing Caster can greatly reduce the shopping cart effect, even when parts are worn. Done right, you will enjoy the truck and will be far less in cost than replacing it with another truck that could very well have it happen with it too.
Caster @ 4-5* is the norm for most cars. The Caster on a RAV4 is closer to 6*.
Think of the wobbly wheels on a shopping cart and that is what the truck is doing. Increasing Caster can greatly reduce the shopping cart effect, even when parts are worn. Done right, you will enjoy the truck and will be far less in cost than replacing it with another truck that could very well have it happen with it too.
Caster @ 4-5* is the norm for most cars. The Caster on a RAV4 is closer to 6*.
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