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The DC reading may show even higher momentary amps. You'll have to watch the meter though, as it will read continuously, not just for a tenth of a second as in the AC Inrush setting.
I remember pressing buttons to Zero it, and I hit that button a couple of times, don't recall how long I held it down though.
that Inrush reading, is the very 1st time that I used the meter...
I do recall that I pressed that on every scale when in the house, trying to see what effect it had on things.
tmw is going to be nice, I will repeat the exercise and see if today's was accurate.
I don't know what I did to **** off the FLA battery gods, but for about eight years I dealt with FLA batteries failing too quickly. This was across four vehicles, six if you include the riding mower and motorcycle. I grew very tired of dealing with weak batteries, removing them, exchanging or arguing with "experts" before exchanging and then reinstalling. Not to mention the time lost and aggravation gained from another failed battery.
This frustration came from several different retailers of batteries, not just one "here you go and good luck" store.
After being smited by the FLA gods several times, I started upgrading to pure lead AGM for the automobiles and a lithium for the riding mower that I scavenged from the motorcycle before I sold it. They are more expensive now than they were, but due to high performing standards and cost equalizing over time, I am just about money saved. Definitely time saved.
It is nice that many are not on the **** list of the FLA gods, that was not my case though.
a DC motor will act like a dead short and draw in excess of 5-20 times their normal operating current for a split moment until the starter armature starts to turn
showing a meter this way makes for great snake oil sales
a DC motor will act like a dead short and draw in excess of 5-20 times their normal operating current for a split moment until the starter armature starts to turn
This is why I suggested that the meter be used in the DC setting, rather than the AC setting, and that the DC reading may show even higher momentary amps.
My guess is that he will see the 4th digit to the left light up.
Well,
I tried to make it show DC twice,
the options are:
1) select 1000 A and it shows DC
2) press Function once and it shows AC
3) press Function again and it shows AC + VFD
4) press Function again and it shows INRUSH
5) press Function again and it returns to Step 1)
Took two samples,
1st was 860A at 38*F and it cranked longer than normal, then WTS came back ON, it cranks a bit more and started. ( no picture )
2nd try about 3 minutes later
shows 852A
and WTS again, came on before it started.
and yes, I pressed the Zero button and heard the Beep
Try it with Option 1 and see what it says (the reading will not be static, unless the meter will remember the transitory max peak for recall with the middle button).
Try it with Option 1 and see what it says (the reading will not be static, unless the meter will remember the transitory max peak for recall with the middle button).
Wondered about that, haven't wanted to work the starter over too much in a short period of time.
Reading the PDF, I took note of this:
so, a couple hours have passed, temp is now 41* and set the meter up for DC, Pressed Zero, then MAX
to me, INRUSH is pretty much the "Truth" and closer to what I believe the batteries are Subjected to.
MAX on DC, this is my only attempt to use it this way, will need to do a lot more reading to decide which value is the "Truth" as to Starter draw at 0.000 seconds to 0.005 seconds.
for my purposes it is okay.
I don't feel like buying a Fluke, too damn expensive...
although, that was the only brand that I used when my Employer paid the tab, and I used them every day in my job
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