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I was going to start my 88 f150. It has a 302. It’s been sitting for 2-3 weeks without being started and it has no spark. I tested it with a spark plug and a grounded surface and verified no spark. I just did the spark plugs and put a new cap and rotor. What would cause it to loose spark like this?
Have you had it running since replacing the cap and rotor? If you have the first thing I suspect when i suddenly lose spark on a Ford with the ignition module mounted on the side of the distributor is the ignition module.
I did run it on the new cap and rotor. But I did spray brake cleaner down the throttle body since I had no starting fluid. Didn’t fire.
how would I test the ignition module?
There is a way to test the ignition module, but I have never done it. There may be some auto parts places who still do it. I usually just replace it when I suspect it is bad, if the engine still doesn't start i save the old one as a spare.
The real bummer is you need a special tool to R&R it. Also on a 302 you may have to turn the distributor to get at the small bolts to remove it. Be sure to make some reference marks at the bottom of the distributor first to get it close back in time.
First thing I would do is make sure you have power up to the coil through one of the small wires that hook onto the coil.
The reversed terminal in your distributor cap is not the cause of your no-start. Have you ensured the distributor is spinning around when you crank the engine? Does your check engine light turn off momentarily when you crank the engine?
Have you checked for 12v on your ignition coil plug?
It has 10v with key on, but I think that was just a low battery since I’d been cranking it and I wasn’t cranking it. I tested the plug below the coil wire going to the distributor. I did order a Moto craft cap since I couldnt find one last time. And I haven’t seen Moto craft rotors that fit anywhere so I still got a duralast rotor.
the engine light did go off momentarily same with the battery. And the rotor did spin I took the cap off multiple times and it was in a different spot every time.
Sounds like the next thing to do is to use a test light between the negative side of your ignition coil and the positive battery post. When you crank the engine, the test light should flash at you. Does it?
I will test that when I have time. My test light hooks up to both battery terminals and tells me if it’s power or ground. Will that affect this test at all? Or will it be the same when I test the negative side of the coil? And is the negative side of the coil still the plug under the wire to the distributor or is it a different one?
Hmm. I'm sot sure. I don't have any experience with LED test lights like that. But every auto parts store has conventional test lights for a few bucks. Or you can solder one together yourself.
The negative side of the coil is the tan/yellow wire (in 1994 models). It's wired into the ICM on the distributor.
Tested it. When I crank the test light goes from green to red. Which I’m pretty sure means it’s going from ground to power based off the instructions.
here’s the plug I proved I proved the yellowish tan one
sounds like your ICM and PIP sensor is working correctly. Your red wire on your coil looks questionable? is it burnt? If its the wire is in good condition, then I would investigate the ignition coil very closely, remove it, and bench test it to look for spark. Something tells me its toast.
It sparked when I hooked up the plug to the coil wire.
I don’t know if the link will work. But I cranked it for about 8 seconds it sparked 2 times once towards the first few seconds and one time when I let off the key.
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