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I used the 90° grease gun tips but they don't work properly. I've bought 4 of them. After 1-2 uses they quit working. I don't have room for a 90° zerk in the upper ball joint because the stub axle u-joint hits it. I don't feel like changing out zerks on the upper ball joints every time I grease them. I found some slightly different style 90° zerk so I'm going to try to install and see if the stub shaft will slide by it or not.
If that doesn't work, I'm about ready to use my hypodermic needle grease gun tip and poke it through the rubber boot to grease the upper ball joints. I don't see why that wouldn't work. I would reseal the hole with lexel.
There is. I do install/leave them in all the time. However, how many times do you think they need grease? It's a 10-15K service interval tops! Once the boots push off and grease comes out, they'll **** the bed pretty quickly (like u-joints).
There is. I do install/leave them in all the time. However, how many times do you think they need grease? It's a 10-15K service interval tops! Once the boots push off and grease comes out, they'll **** the bed pretty quickly (like u-joints).
I haven't greased them scince I installed them. I don't remember how long ago that was unfortunately. I figured grease them once a year. I will start keeping up with the miles better.
I tried installing the 90° zerks that came with the ball joints and the stub axle u-joint hit it. I bought some that might be a little lower profile to try. Maybe they will clear the u-joint. We will see. My front axle is an e99. Not sure if there is any difference causing my zerks to not clear the u-joint. I wouldn't think it would be much if at all different.
If all else fails, I do have a grease needle.
I feel the needle won't get the grease around the ball of the joint properly going through the boot.
I'm going out now to try to install the 90° zerks before it rains. Thanks for your help! I'm hopeful these 90° zerks will fit better than the old ones. Thanks
I have never had luck running any zerk in the upper ball joints, always used a plug that I fumbled around to remove and swap in a zerk when grease was needed. Plowing and nasty muddy, snowy and icy conditions always resulted in both the upper and lower ball joint zerks getting broken off. (Lower one usually from bottoming out in ditches or off sides of cattle grates during blizzards)
I solved this issue by only running oem spicer sealed ball joints. That is all I will ever run. They last longer anyways.
Greasing the boot via a needle is useless, It does not put the grease where it needs to be. It would be equivalent to swapping the hpop reservoir oil every 3k miles and calling that a complete oil change…
They also make 45* zerks if that would help (probably not if the 90* don't). On a 4wd I agree with Eswift the sealed ones are probably the way to go. On a 2wd its no big deal getting to them.
They also make 45* zerks if that would help (probably not if the 90* don't). On a 4wd I agree with Eswift the sealed ones are probably the way to go. On a 2wd its no big deal getting to them.
Yeah, so basically I would have been able to get to them before but now, I made it harder on myself LOL
It was still worth it! Twin I-beam delete for the win!
I have straight zerks on all four ball joints and a 90 fitting. Works flawlessly every time. Are you sure that you are getting the fitting all the way down and straight over the zerk? There has to be a "click" sensation when putting the fitting on the zerk.
I found a very short life on the (cheap) 90 degree grease fittings too. I think I ended up buying a NAPA one that lasted a bit longer, but they seem to work well about once, and after that, they spew grease all over the place. I double-checked to be SURE the fitting was fully seated.
I have straight zerks on all four ball joints and a 90 fitting. Works flawlessly every time. Are you sure that you are getting the fitting all the way down and straight over the zerk? There has to be a "click" sensation when putting the fitting on the zerk.
Yes, I even tried using it on some easy to get to zerks and ensured it clicked in properly. Grease would not go in. Just went everywhere. I of course tried pushing harder and in different directions and angles, no matter how straight it was, it went out the side. I switched to a standard fitting and it worked great on the same zerks. I am on my 4th fitting. The first 2 worked 2 times. The 3rd didn't work at all, and now I have another to try. The first 2 and the 4th one were from tractor supply, and the 3rd was from the auto store. I haven't tried the newest one yet. Where did you buy your fitting?
I found a very short life on the (cheap) 90 degree grease fittings too. I think I ended up buying a NAPA one that lasted a bit longer, but they seem to work well about once, and after that, they spew grease all over the place. I double-checked to be SURE the fitting was fully seated.
Exactly what happened to me. I haven't tried the napa one. Maybe there is a good one on the market somewhere.
Yes, I even tried using it on some easy to get to zerks and ensured it clicked in properly. Grease would not go in. Just went everywhere. I of course tried pushing harder and in different directions and angles, no matter how straight it was, it went out the side. I switched to a standard fitting and it worked great on the same zerks. I am on my 4th fitting. The first 2 worked 2 times. The 3rd didn't work at all, and now I have another to try. The first 2 and the 4th one were from tractor supply, and the 3rd was from the auto store. I haven't tried the newest one yet. Where did you buy your fitting?
I don't remember where I bought the fitting, but most likely NAPA. I've found over the years that the parts they provide are more expensive, but you get what you pay for.