It doesn't look like there will be enough clearance between the grease zerk on the upper ball joint and
the knuckle, it looks like the knuckle could hit it. Has anyone had luck just using the caps and removing them and screwing in a 45 zerk temporarily when it's time for grease?

 

i went to car-quest with the old ones got the right size 90* they where a low profile. when i turned the axle they barely bumped so i filed them down less then 1/64, i think i did 5 passes with the file. they have never bumped after.

 

I installed short straight zerks, they give plenty of clearence. Then use a 90 grease gun adaptor available at any parts store.

 

I have XRF ball joints with straight zerks. No issues with clearance.

 

So far I've been using the plugs and putting a 90 in when it's time to grease. It's a very tight spot and hard to get the plugs and zerks in and out.

 

+1....that's what I did.

 

I also put plugs in and swap em out with zerks when I change oil.

 

I've seen these comments posted here many times before and I still don't understand the problem.

After the shop failed to install zerks on the upper joint, I just went to the auto supply joint, bought a package of 90 degree zerks hanging on a peg board, installed them, and life went on.

Now maybe you got the long ones, or were afraid to screw them in sufficiently, but I just don't believe theres a problem using these 90's. Or possibly, its the brand of ball joints. Mine were Moogs.

By the way if the clerk looks younger than 30, don't ask for zerks, they have no idea what you want. Grease fitting, yes.

 

Mine are Moog. Do you know if the thread was metric or SAE? Both are sold at AutoZone.

 

My Moogs came with 90's and a plug. I can see how they would be prone to breaking off if left in place, so I haven't. It would be an absolute pain to remove the broken piece. I do like the idea here of installing a short straight and using a 90 on the grease gun.

 

SAE as what I installed.