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So this is my second thread discussing suspension modification for the Excursion. Initially, I was set on the 2.25" F250 kit from Old Man Emu, however I have changed course and will follow Camo's suggestion after doing a lot of reading and research.
Procomp 22210 front springs
Procomp 22415 rear springs
PMF U bolts front and rear
PMF top plates with air bag tang (future proof in case I add air bags)
PMF adjustable track bar
WFO 2* shims front and rear
Custom tuned shocks (Fox 2.0 remote reservoir by Accutune Offroad in my case)
I am going to customize the suggestion a bit and add:
PMF heavy duty tie rod kit
PMF heavy duty drag link kit
PMF heavy duty ball joints
PMF steel braided brake line kit
Energy Suspension poly bushings (leaf springs and shackles)
The only question I had was whether the Fox 2.0 shocks I am contemplating will work or not. From an older thread, it seems the Procomp springs will cycle a 10" front shock and 12" rear shock. Camo had listed Bilstein shocks that would work and they were 26"/16"/10" front shocks and 32"/20"/12" rear shocks. The FOX shocks I am looking at are FOX-985-26-052 (front) and FOX-985-26-054 (rear) which are 26"/16"/10" and 30"/18"/12" respectively.
Edit: Stock replacement Bilstein 4600 shock specs are front 21"/13"/8" rear 28"/17"/11"
Will having a shock that is 2" shorter extended/compressed limit overall suspension travel even if it cycles the same distance (12") as a longer shock? Or would I be better off in the rear with FOX-985-26-055 which is 35"/21"/14"?
Kobra
Last edited by Kobra; Jan 17, 2023 at 02:25 PM.
Reason: Specs
I’d say Motorcraft TRE if you can get employee pricing at a ford dealer otherwise I just run the Duralast ones from Autozone because they are lifetime warranty and easy to replace. Service life is adequate.
You need a big crow foot wrench and big torque wrench for that adjustable track bar.
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you bring up a great point for folks new to using Heim joints.
getting the jam nut tight is critical, a loose jam nut lets the treads beat back and forth which deforms them. Failure ensues.
I strongly recommend buying a large open end wrench to fit the nut and keep them tight. ( amazon or ebay are easy places to find one ) Chanel locks will not get that nut tight enough.
the track bar itself has a torque spec of 450 ft lbs.
the track bar itself has a torque spec of 450 ft lbs.
I was planning to do this same entire project in a few weeks on my rig. My big torque wrench only goes to 250 ft lbs. I guess I'm gonna need a bigger torque wrench and the crow foot wrench to go with it.
I was planning to do this same entire project in a few weeks on my rig. My big torque wrench only goes to 250 ft lbs. I guess I'm gonna need a bigger torque wrench and the crow foot wrench to go with it.
not sure what you plan to use the crow foot on but I suggest using a 3/4" drive 6 point socket on the track bar fastener.
a crows foot is typically used in hard to reach places at relatively low torques similar to an open end wrench.
not sure what you plan to use the crow foot on but I suggest using a 3/4" drive 6 point socket on the track bar fastener.
a crows foot is typically used in hard to reach places at relatively low torques similar to an open end wrench.
Sorry. I somehow assumed the crowfoot was needed to torque a nut that couldn't be reached with a socket to a spec. That's the only way that I've had to use them prior...in gunsmithing for barrel nuts.
Sorry. I somehow assumed the crowfoot was needed to torque a nut that couldn't be reached with a socket to a spec. That's the only way that I've had to use them prior...in gunsmithing for barrel nuts.
I used the crow foot to get the correct torque on the jam nut for the track bar (in addition to red loctite per PMF instructions):
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