Ok folks. It is perfectly acceptable to use anti-seize on spark plugs. You just have to use something that is designed for that purpose.
Champion Aerospace 2612 - Spark Plug Thread Lubricant & Anti-Seize Compound 4 Oz | eBay
This is graphite based. If you use regular aluminum or copper based anti-seize and slather it on it can short out the center electrode and ruin your plug. It can be used but a little dab will do it and never on the first two threads.
As far as getting a stuck plug out I don't believe any penetrant is ever going to get past the tapered seat on that plug. If the combustion gases don't leak out there ain't nothing going to seep in.

 

Charlie 67 - you mentioned that you used a Torque Gun so my assumption is that is the same thing as an air impact wrench. I have had good success with that and have never broken the plug by doing it. However, the insulator might break. I use my old CP impact wrench which doesn't have gobs of torque. I let it rattle forwards and backwards to get some vibration to loosen the rust and carbon. Even after it starts to move, it can still take a lot of back and forth to get the plug out completely. My thinking is that if the plug does break using this method then you were probably destined to pull the head and take it to a machine shop regardless. I would also consider an oxyacetylene torch to heat the head around the spark plug combined with the impact wrench. Lots of heat in a concentrated area can give a little bit of expansion to help get things moving.

I completely agree with Crop Duster about the use of penetrant of any kind. There is no way in the world that it is going to get past the conical/tapered sealing surface to the threads.

Use of anti-seize - I use a Permatex graphite based anti-seize on cast iron heads and a Walter ceramic based anti-seize for plugs in aluminum cylinder heads for it's anti-galling properties. There are no electrical issues and I would not expect that there would be an issue with any product if not applied excessively. I work with a wide variety of electrical circuits for a living, 0-500kV & 0-5000 Amps part of which requires insulation testing. The electrical connection between a spark plug and cylinder head will be fine, regardless of what goop is applied to the threads.

 

RTT, you're full of "**** and Vinegar".

 

I got it out, Thanks everyone!

I ended up putting a rolled up shop rag around the spark plug to form a cup and filled it with Kroil every other day for two weeks. Then broke off what remained of the white porcelain top and used a metal rod and hammer to tap on it with medium force to loosen up the oxidation. From there used a long braker bar, gradually increasing force until it started to budge. Remember to vacuum up all the debris before removing the spark plug completely.

RTT your option was next on my list 😂

 

Kool u got it.........
When I was 23 or so , we had a stuck bolt , guy started to tighten it more . I asked why , & thinking he was nuts , he said sometimes it works for him , well it worked
We never knew why , but now after dealing with stuck bolts on my "beater" & learning from u guys I think anything that jars the rust or bond that has it stuck , then you can get some penetrating stuff in there to help do the rest . Touche' to you

 

Dare I say it; Superzilla. This stuff worked for me better than anything else I have on the shelf. Rule of thumb; If your motor runs, warm it up before removing questionable bolts and plugs.