Removing Spark Plugs

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Feb 15, 2005 | 08:10 AM

griz4718

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Removing Spark Plugs

Truck is a 94 with a 4.0. Apparently with the ORIGINAL plugs still installed. Shop I took it to for some other work along with changing the plugs snapped the first one off with little effort. So, I actually have 2 requests...

1. Suggestions on how to remove remainder of broken plug. Ceramic center came out in one peice leaving only the threaded portion.

2. Suggestions on how best to remove remaining 5 plugs without breaking any more.

Lesson of the day....NEVER buy your brother-in-laws truck....EVER !!!

Thanks in advance

Feb 15, 2005 | 09:55 AM

97RangerV6

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I know it tight but try to get a good angle when removing. The less extensions the better. If the thread are still there then there shouldn't be an issue.

Feb 15, 2005 | 10:25 AM

Dave257

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A couple of years ago I a saw a tool someone had just for that purpose. It was a socket with a screw extracter in the middle that fit down in the plug. Don't know who made it but check some of the tool guys, mac, snap on etc thay may know. Also I have seen guys warm engines up and then spray the plug with canned air to cool the plug and quickly try to loosen it. Good luck.
Dave

Feb 15, 2005 | 11:26 AM

RangerRuss

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From: Cypress, CA

Griz: 97 Ranger has a valid point. It is highly likely that the spark plug broke the way that it did because the socket/ratchet were not on the spark plug squarely. IF the socket/ratchet had been square with the plug and the the spark plug was frozen, the plug would have come out of the cylinder head and brought the threads with it.

You indicated that the ceramic portion of the spark plug broke off - if the steel portion of the spark plug is still in the cylinder head, you should be able to loosen and unscrew it with your spark plug socket - again installed square with the remaining portion of the spark plug.

Try again and double check to ensure that the socket is on the spark plug squarely. When you install the new spark plugs, anti-seize compound goes a long way toward avoiding this situation in the future.

This is not an uncommon happening especially if one is in a hurry.

Hope this is helpful.

Russ

Feb 15, 2005 | 02:19 PM

texan2004

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Joined: Nov 2004

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From: Friendswood, Texas

If the ceramic portion broke, I would recommend using a shallow 6-point 5/8" socket instead of the standard deep well spark plug socket. I would also use a 1/2" drive instead of 3/8" drive to get more uhmp on it. Like the others have said, keep extensions to a minimum and get as straight a shot as possible. You may want to remove the inner fender wells for better access. This is very easy and takes about 5 minutes max to remove both if you have a battery power screw driver with nut driver handy. The plug should still come right out even though the ceramic is broken. As far as the others, get a straight shot at them and use you spark plug socket with a minimum number of extensions.

Feb 16, 2005 | 08:06 AM

griz4718

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The mechanic was able to get the remaining piece of the plug out. I neglected to mention that the metal portion of the plug broke right at the base of the hex. I think the ceramic piece broke when that broke. There is a section of the plug below the hex but above where the plug seats and seals that gets corroded and that is what was stuck. The threads were in perfect shape. The mechanic called a machine shop he deals with and they told him about the area that corrodes. That changed his approach to getting it out. He fabricated a long thin pin punch and started to work that in between the head and the broken plug. Once he had the rust broken all the way around he said it came out easy. I have some ideas on how to gingerly work the rest of them but I still would like to hear any and all suggestions. Thank you all who have replied to this. The people on this site are really great!