I just replaced my front brakes for the 2nd time at 90k. The inner shoe on both sides was wore so bad that one of the rotors was damaged. The outer shoes looked to still have 80% life on them. So that tells me the inner shoes are sticking. I used the Power Stop K3167-36 Z36 rotors and brakes and hardware both times. Also I get only about 16mpg during the winter and 18mpg in the summer with mixed driving so I'm thinking my pad is dragging. I cleaned and lubed up the pins and replaced the pin boots as well. This all makes me wonder if everything is working ok. My original OEM brakes ended up warping the rotors with only about 3 years driving on them with plenty of pad life left. I'm just wondering why the inner pads would stick and not both pads.

 

The inner pads didn't stick. You didn't have enough lube on the slide pins, and likely not enough on the 'tabs' on the pads, to allow them to back off properly.

Calipers with pistons on one side are supposed to 'float' on the slide pins, and the pads usually have some kind of spring tab to assist in 'backing off' from the rotor. If the slide pins aren't adequately lubed, and the channels that the pads ride in on the bracket aren't clean and well lubed, then things will lock up and you'll get this kind of wear.

You're lucky that you were able to get the slide pins un-stuck when you disassembled things - I had to replace the entire brackets on my Power Wagon just a few weeks ago because the pins had locked up.

Basically when doing a brake job, it usually goes something like this:
- Disassemble
- Obtain a high-quality synthetic brake grease (less likely to break down over time)
- Apply what you think is enough to the pins. Then add more. Then add more.
- Install pins and boots. Some grease may come out, wipe off with a rag - you know there is enough in there now.
- Clean the 'slots' that the pads ride in on the bracket, add synthetic brake grease (place the new inserts first, if equipped). Don't go TOO heavy here but make sure everything is coated
- Install pads
- Apply grease to the ends of the piston(s) and wherever the pad will touch the other side of the caliper (helps prevent squealing from pad vibration, if there is any). Install caliper.
- Bleed if necessary. It's usually a good idea but you don't always need to do this step.

Basically if you have any grease left in the tube you bought, you probably didn't use enough. At least that's been my experience. I have, on several vehicles in the past, had to replace caliper brackets due to frozen pins. The ONLY way I have found to make them function properly is to follow the steps above - I always get even pad wear this way.

 

We had the opposite issue with our brakes. The rears wore out at ~~ 40K miles, and the fronts are still good at ~~ 60K. I attribute that to towing and/or traction control.

 

Just to be different.

I am at 132k and still on the original pads all the way around.
While rotating tires yesterday I noticed the right rear inner pad was the thinnest.
Probably going to replace pads all the way around in the spring while changing the oil.

Going to go with Wagner OEX.

Remember, do not backflow brake fluid on the newer vehicles.
Release fluid pressure at the caliper bleed.

 

Great points. I go further by cleaning everything. This includes the bores where the pins ride, and the pins themselves to make sure there is no corrosion. If they are corroded, replace with only FOMCO caliper pins. I grease them a fair amount, then push them in and out of the bores. Once I reassemble the caliper, I burp the boots on the pins to make sure there is no air in them. If there is air trapped in there, the pins can cause a pad to drag on the side that hasn't been burped. That's my experience anyway.

 

Good points however my pins were NOT stuck. I did take them apart and clean and lubed them back up. As for the pads, there is no spring tab to assist in backing off. The channels that the pads ride in get new stainless steel channels as they did when I replaced them the first time. I do put lube in the channels. I guess over time they can get dirty and maybe the pads don't back off after a while. I had done everything you said except for applying grease to the piston faces. I considered filing a couple of thousandths off the sides of the pads where they meet the channel to make them a little more loose but I didn't. The new pads are snug in the channels.

 

Can you jack up the front wheel or wheels and see if they are dragging?
You will have to have the engine running to keep the hubs unlocked.

 

Watch this....

 

When you apply your brakes, it pulls out on the pins.

 

I have had the same experience with my inner pads sticking. I always file the tabs on the pads and make sure they float freely. Not loose, but free. I am back and forth between greasing and not greasing the channels. I suspect the grease catches brake dust and turns into cement and locks them in worse. I also have learned thru experience that you CAN have too much grease on your pins. I just clean out the old and add a light coating.

I'm having an issue now, at 84,000 miles, that I think both front calipers are sticking hard. Mileage is down, rubbing sound in the front end, and a slight vibration at highway speeds.

BTW, I love the Power Stops. Great brakes! I love the coated rotors that don't rust and therefore don't warp!