Brake issue
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Brake issue
Front brakes keep dragging. What I have done so far. New caliper brackets with new slide pins. New pads and new rotors. I noticed when I pressed the pistons back into the calipers they were kind of tough to go in, on one caliper the piston was coming back out a little after I got it all the way in. So after driving the truck for 15 to 20 minutes the front rotors are hitting 366 degrees, back ones 108 degrees and this is in 10 degree weather. I replaced the master cylinder with new and made sure the push rod was adjusted right and not pushing on the MC piston at all. The truck brakes good and has a good high pedal but after 15-20 minutes you can feel the front dragging down.
Is there something im missing? Anything that would keep this kind of pressure on the front discs? Or should I just replace the calipers?
Is there something im missing? Anything that would keep this kind of pressure on the front discs? Or should I just replace the calipers?
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Western AR
Brake hardware is almost always overlooked, and the made in China stuff you get today is rarely up to snuff. If your brake pads cannot SLIDE easily in the caliper bracket, then your pads will stick in place when applied and not be able to "relax" when you let off the brake pedal. Take a look at the hardware. See if it is keeping the pads from moving freely in the slots on the caliper mounting brackets.
Many people do not grease the hardware and brake pads in the proper places or at all. This is a critical step in a brake job. Grease the slots in the mounting brackets, and grease the backs of the pads where they contact the caliper pistons. Use ONLY high temp brake grease (blue or green usually).
Many people do not grease the hardware and brake pads in the proper places or at all. This is a critical step in a brake job. Grease the slots in the mounting brackets, and grease the backs of the pads where they contact the caliper pistons. Use ONLY high temp brake grease (blue or green usually).
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Ok I didn't grease the new stainless steel pad guides. I did grease the new pins of course. The pads do move easily when dry in the brackets. I will grease them then go for a ride and see how that goes. Thanks.
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Western AR
When you compressed the pistons in, did you open the bleeder valve FIRST to keep that old, boiled fluid from going back up toward the master cylinder? Old, boiled fluid loses the properties that make brake fluid work. You want to get rid of that stuff any time you compress the pistons back in. When was the last time the brake fluid was changed? Is it clear when bleeding it?
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I didn't open the bleeders but I replaced the master cylinder and bleed the new fluid all the way out of the calipers. Yes it is clear. The stuff in the master cylinder was brown like soda coca cola....
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
The only thing to "ruin" inside a caliper is the seal for the piston. The boots can tear, but they were not subjected to that internal "coca cola" you had in there. The pistons could crack, but they would have to get mighty hot for that to happen, and you would have brake fluid leaking everywhere.
I would recommend rebuilding the calipers to replace that seal for under $10 before buying new ones. It is pretty easy to do. RockAuto has them under: brake and wheel hub>caliper repair kit @ ~$4 each
I just used a couple kits to rebuild the calipers on my Dana 60 from my axle swap, and it was super easy.
I would recommend rebuilding the calipers to replace that seal for under $10 before buying new ones. It is pretty easy to do. RockAuto has them under: brake and wheel hub>caliper repair kit @ ~$4 each
I just used a couple kits to rebuild the calipers on my Dana 60 from my axle swap, and it was super easy.
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The hoses are ok. I just bit the bullet and replaced the calipers with new. I work 50 hours a week and don't really have the time to rebuild calipers. So the test.... after an hour of driving the rotors only heating up to 160 degrees versus the old calipers pushing the rotors to almost 400 degrees in less than 20 minutes. The Ex stops like a tank now. The old calipers were locked on so tight I had to use a crowbar to pry them off, im surprised the new rotors didnt warp. So everything new on the front.... great brakes makes me happy.
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