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Throttle body issues

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Old Nov 3, 2022 | 11:23 AM
  #1  
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Throttle body issues

I have a 1994 F150 with the 5.0l and I’ve been having trouble with what I think is the throttle body getting stuck open when coming to a complete stop.

About a month ago I cleaned the throttle body, removed it and used a throttle body cleaner which stated it was for ford trucks. Replaced everything and still have a idling issue so I ended up replacing both the IAC valve and the throttle body position sensor which seemed to fix the idling issue.

Although now since doing that almost every time I drive the vehicle when I come to a complete stop my truck is trying to pull forward harder than usual and when I let off the brake it jerks forward before I even touch the gas pedal.

I’m not sure if I should clean it again cause I only heard after doing this that ford recommends not cleaning their throttle body’s and should I just get a replacement? Also if this is going to mess up anything else the longer it is going on ?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2022 | 05:43 PM
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You need to figure out where the problem is first, is the TB binding, or is the throttle cable sticking, or is the gas pedal getting stuck on something in the cab like a floor mat.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2022 | 08:51 AM
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Stop screw over adjusted. IAC malfunction or incorrect part installed. TPS malfunction or incorrect installation. Mechanical binding.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2022 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Zsawyr
I have a 1994 F150 with the 5.0l and I’ve been having trouble with what I think is the throttle body getting stuck open when coming to a complete stop.

About a month ago I cleaned the throttle body, removed it and used a throttle body cleaner which stated it was for ford trucks. Replaced everything and still have a idling issue so I ended up replacing both the IAC valve and the throttle body position sensor which seemed to fix the idling issue.

Although now since doing that almost every time I drive the vehicle when I come to a complete stop my truck is trying to pull forward harder than usual and when I let off the brake it jerks forward before I even touch the gas pedal.

I’m not sure if I should clean it again cause I only heard after doing this that ford recommends not cleaning their throttle body’s and should I just get a replacement? Also if this is going to mess up anything else the longer it is going on ?
take the accelerator cable off the throttle body linkage. thendepress the spring on the cable a bit, and then twist a play with the cable while slightly depressed in the bracket , and if someone could tap pedal while doing it, even better, this is to make sure the cable is not binding or tight in the sheathing. if it winds up it may not return easily. Before putting back on, open your throttle blades with your hand by moving the same arm the cable clips on. from open to closed, is it smooth. when you release it, does it spring back nicely. hows the springs on the throttle plates shafts? Mine had the spring un-wound on one of the shafts, and it would not spring back with much force.

Then reattach. operate by hand. return nicely? drive it
 
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Old Nov 4, 2022 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Conanski
You need to figure out where the problem is first, is the TB binding, or is the throttle cable sticking, or is the gas pedal getting stuck on something in the cab like a floor mat.
I just checked the throttle cable and it does not seem to be sticking but I will add a picture in so you can verify if everything is correct.


I also know the pedal is not getting stuck because when it first starting happening i would pull up on the pedal to see if it was getting stuck.

If it is the TB binding would it be better to go and clean it again or to buy a new one ? also do you know if its possible to install the throttle body position sensor wrong ?



 
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Old Nov 4, 2022 | 02:28 PM
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Awesome thanks for the reply ! I will definitely do this on Sunday and see if everything works as it should
 
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Old Nov 4, 2022 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by R&RFord
Stop screw over adjusted. IAC malfunction or incorrect part installed. TPS malfunction or incorrect installation. Mechanical binding.
Could it be the stop screw is over adjusted if it wants to pull forward while stopped but after about a minute would stop puling and feel back to normal ?

Also when I installed the TPS i installed it the way the last one was on but was not sure about the two black tabs and how to line them up properly.

thanks for the help
 
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Old Nov 4, 2022 | 04:47 PM
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it must be your stop screw that was touched because surely an iac problem before.

For the tps it seems to me that we can not go wrong to put it, it has only one meaning.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2022 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Nonofordf150
For the tps it seems to me that we can not go wrong to put it, it has only one meaning.
Actually you can put it on with the sensor tabs on the wrong side of the throttle body tabs. It will not turn when the throttle is opened so the computer does not know how far the throttle has been opened.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2022 | 12:44 PM
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Oh yes okay.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2022 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Nonofordf150
it must be your stop screw that was touched because surely an iac problem before.

For the tps it seems to me that we can not go wrong to put it, it has only one meaning.

Okay just looked at everything and I can see I def moved the stop screw when I first cleaned the throttle body 🤦🏼‍♂️. I guess I didn’t see the sticker right next to the screw and this is what I get for that.

I tried to adjust it back to where the marking lined back up but I test drove it and it was still doing the same thing. Would you know how to adjust the stop screw back to the original setting ?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2022 | 02:42 PM
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At operating temperature with the IAC unplugged, the engine should be at 500-600 rpm.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2022 | 02:59 PM
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From: Candy Mountain
Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
At operating temperature with the IAC unplugged, the engine should be at 500-600 rpm.
This assumes there are no vacuum leaks and the timing is within spec. An easy way to eliminate vacuum leaks from the equation is to cap everything at the manifold except for MAP and FPR. Check your timing as well. If you still have factory vacuum lines you should replace them.

You would also be smart to check the TPS signal as the throttle is moved. If it looks good see if the closed position voltage is different in park versus in gear.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2022 | 04:50 PM
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I was able to buy a aftermarket tachometer and hook it up to adjust the set screw and it was definitely off by a lot. Enough to where I think someone had messed with it before me but dropping it down to 550 rpm with the iac unplugged seemed to do the trick. Have been driving around all day and the pulling has gone away!

thanks everyone for your help on this thread !
 
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