I just acquired this 1947 1 1/2 ton truck with plans to slowly get her to driveable status again, and eventually do a restoration. Lots to learn as I go here but with details from this site I was able to effectively decode the VIN and get some better details (thanks to whoever posted that info). This looks like an interesting truck, things are more or less intact and other than a missing muffler the engine and drivetrain look to all be there including a two speed axle. The bed has a winch as well so at some point I'll have to see how that works. The rear wheels are both locked up hard, so diagnosing that will be one of my first fixes.

Before I get to rolling chassis status though, I need to ascertain whether these wheels are the widow makers like I think they are. The front looks like a lock ring, but based on what I can tell from this forum the rear duals look like they might need to go. I would appreciate any confirmation.

There are also several levers in the cab. The gear shift is obvious enough, but if anyone can enlighten me to the function of the other three pictured below, that would also be most appreciated.

 

Welcome to the forum. You are correct that both pictured rear outer duals are the Firestone RH-5° “widow maker” variety. Be careful with them. It’s the outer duals that are the most dangerous because a side ring would exit outward. Assuming the tires would not be saved, drilling holes in the tread areas to deflate them while standing to one side reduces the risk. These wheels were probably not original to the truck since the first record of the RH-5° was 1948. Obviously check the inner duals before any aggressive handling of them. The pictured front is a locking side ring type. Probably the OEM style Firestone RH design. Hopefully your other front and inner duals are as well and can be saved. Stu

 

hi ! looks good !! probably one is for pto engagement ,and the other for hydraulic valve engagement .

 

The two next the seat operate the dump bed, the other one is the emergency brake pull it back to stop, push the botton down and move the leaver forward to release.

 

Thanks for confirming. The inner duals look the same as the outers though it's a little hard to tell with the drums in the way. So not ideal, but so it goes. I'll likely just pull the valve cores and deflate them that way, but intend to release all pressure before doing anything on those wheels. I've learned enough on here and other sites to have a healthy respect for what those can do when they let go.

No dump bed on this truck, but the winch is chain-driven from a PTO gearbox so at least one probably goes to that. There's also an Aux Pump toggle switch on the dash. Looks like some digging around hoses and wires will be coming up. Also thanks for noting the e-brake! This probably hasn't run or moved in decades, but I was able to free the brake with a little persuasion and guess what - the truck rolls now!

Interesting thing with the dates and parts on this truck. It's a 1947 ID, but the rear wheels are '48+, and the engine is an 8BA which should also be '48+ according to a flathead site. I'm not sure if the engine and wheels were all swapped at some point or what. I'm glad to find an 8BA in there though, particularly with a pan still full of oil. Assuming I can rotate it by hand, I'll give starting it up a try soon.

 

Just a guess but the 2 by the seat is for the winch being you dont have a dump body.
1 lever for engage (could it be tired into the clutch?) and the other for cable in & out.
Had an old 60's Ford tow truck that used 2 levers. 1 to the clutch and the other for cable up or down.
Dave ----

 

Looks like the body is in good shape. Love that paint job and lettering. Maybe just spay it with clear-coat to preserve it.

 

Is that a stake body with the “Ford” script on the back?

 

It really is for the age, especially given how a lot of these seem to end up. Minimal dents that I can work back out primarily around the fenders, none in the roof or other areas. The main rust holes are the lower rear cab corners which sounds pretty common, and the front grille area near where the bumper supports pass through; The rust is symmetrical so I assume it's just a water collection point. The rest of the rust is more or less surface only, though I may find surprises later. This truck came out of a guy's auto collection after doing years of work, so at least it wasn't rusting out in a muddy ditch somewhere.

I haven't decided on paint yet, but given the condition in other places I think the eventual plan will be to strip and repaint. However I like the lettering as well, so I might try to preserve that in the process and retain the overall theme. The company lettering is actually what drew me to it in the first place. I'm also not sure if I'll keep the Moving Engineers sign on the stakes or not, but if not would replicate the wording onto new boards.

It very well may have had the script/emblem back there in the past, unfortunately those cross members left the chat a while ago. Part of the restoration will include welding some new steel on the rear end of the bed and frame. Actually if anyone has good pictures of what it should look like that will be helpful, I found one on the web with a Ford emblem but I can't tell how much of that is custom vs period correct.