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This is a stupid question, but for some reason I just can't wrap my head around it. I need to adjust the rear brakes on my 86 F250 after changing cylinders and shoes. Is there a way to spin each wheel independently? When the whole rear end is off of the ground, clearly both wheels spin. With the tires on it's tough to feel the drag on each individual drum, as both wheels are turning. Is there another way to do this that I'm completely missing?
Also, what's sweet spot for drag? Just a tiny bit?
Chock the front tires. Put the transmission or transfer case in neutral. Now when you spin one rear wheel, the driveshaft will spin instead of the opposite wheel.
If the opposite wheel still tries to spin, lower that side to the ground or jam a piece of wood (or similar) underneath.
This is a stupid question, but for some reason I just can't wrap my head around it. I need to adjust the rear brakes on my 86 F250 after changing cylinders and shoes. Is there a way to spin each wheel independently? When the whole rear end is off of the ground, clearly both wheels spin. With the tires on it's tough to feel the drag on each individual drum, as both wheels are turning. Is there another way to do this that I'm completely missing?
Also, what's sweet spot for drag? Just a tiny bit?
When adjusting brakes, expand the star wheel until the wheel is locked up. Then back off till the wheel turns freely with minimum drag. Count the number of strokes to reach the free spin. Adjust the other side the same number of turns.
I agree, adjust it till it locks up. This centers the brake assembly in the drum. As you have already realized, the whole thing is fairly floppy on the backing plate. So expanding them out till it locks makes sure it's in the middle. I then adjust them back in till there is still some rubbing, especially on new shoes with old drums. And then you might need to adjust your parking brake afterward also.
P.S. You did put the short shoe toward the front of the truck on each side? Long to the rear?
I got everything adjusted and it's working so much better than it used to. Thanks to everyone!
One curious thing - When I jacked up one side, chocked the wheels, put it into neutral, and tried to spin one wheel it was nearly impossible. I could just barely get it to turn and that was with the wheel on. Like with all of my body weight leaning into it. Trying with just the rotor there was no way to get enough leverage to spin anything. With both wheels up, they would spin together in the same direction. Any idea why this would happen, what it points to, or if it matters? The truck has a 460 and C6 if that's helpful.
I got everything adjusted and it's working so much better than it used to. Thanks to everyone!
One curious thing - When I jacked up one side, chocked the wheels, put it into neutral, and tried to spin one wheel it was nearly impossible. I could just barely get it to turn and that was with the wheel on. Like with all of my body weight leaning into it. Trying with just the rotor there was no way to get enough leverage to spin anything. With both wheels up, they would spin together in the same direction. Any idea why this would happen, what it points to, or if it matters? The truck has a 460 and C6 if that's helpful.
That type of operation points to it being a limited slip rear. If you look at the code on the door jamb, it might confirm this also.
You can also look at the metal tag(s) secured by the differential cover bolts. The tag usually denotes the gear ratio and if limited-slip gear oil is required. Not sure how Ford did it, but some manufacturers used a second tag for oil info.
Hope I didn't confuse you replying to your original question about both wheels spinning. I thought you meant the other wheel was spinning in the opposite direction, which is normal for an open differential.
This is not to be construed as me being wrong, which we all know is impossible. I was merely less correct than usual.
If you happen to still have the tag on the rearend, the factory always punched the bolt hole right through the first numbers of the ratio. For instance if you have a 3.55 ratio, the limited slip version will be a 3L 55. They always punch the "3" out, but you may seem remnants of a "L" in there and the the "55" or whatever ratio you have.
If you happen to still have the tag on the rearend, the factory always punched the bolt hole right through the first numbers of the ratio. For instance if you have a 3.55 ratio, the limited slip version will be a 3L 55. They always punch the "3" out, but you may seem remnants of a "L" in there and the the "55" or whatever ratio you have.
They didn't punch the 3 out on my tag but the bolt head might partially obscure the 3.