I think that the fuse going red when the slide switch is engaged is key. Like you said Steve, it's going open circuit. There's another auto-reset circuit breaker somewhere else in the circuit that is tripping, which could mean that there's a short/ground in the circuit downstream of the switch.

 

Is the yellow 20A fuse beneath the circuit breaker good? If the light is coming on with a fuse in the breaker location and that fuse isn’t blown, that makes me think the light is indicating a different fuse position. You wouldn’t have enough voltage drop across a good fuse to light the LED.

So, I’d try a new 20A fuse in that position below the red light if you haven’t already.

 

that fuse next to it was tried. When I remove that fuse it then turns red. that is how it should be.

I swapped it with others and I get the same results.

We sent KZ an email last night, hope that someone still works with them that will answer.

 

Scott,

I hope they reply, but from what I read last night, their record in responding did not appear to be good.

If you know someone with a "toner"locating the slide relays would greatly speed up as would detection of a break in the wires. It is a simple device to use and I have been able to at times trace wires that ran throughout an RV in walls, etc. All it would take is an adventuresome rodent to create your current dilemma.

In general, however, I would suggest searching in cubbies or place where access is not immediately visible, but not too hard to reach. Slide relays come in several different flavors so go online to review what they might look like would be my suggestion.

I spent a couple of hours last night searching for information not only on your model, but other models from the same manufacturer including the owners' forum without success. However, you might also consider joining the forum and polling the members as someone there might know. I didn't want to join so I could not post. Facebook might also be a possibility.

Steve

 

I was going to take another look under the basement today, looking around the converter area. KZ did a pretty good job in putting everything in that area for servicing.

Knowing the color of the wiring at the switch panel may help in tracing.

I am going to make an appointment at Beckleys, Don't want too but feel I will do this as it will take a month anyway to get in there. Hope I can find it before then,

Thanks for the help all. Will keep everyone posted if I come up with something. In the mean time, we head home today after a bit of hand cranking of the slides, lol.

 

Noting wrong with getting some help. Many owners would be miles ahead establishing a good relationship with a service center or tech they trust.

 

I think what you are going to find is a bad connection that you can get voltage across with no load but when a load is applied it will not pass any current. Had this happen this spring on one of my front jacks, it ended up being a bad connection in my fuse panel. Being it's on all slides it will be a connection that is common to all of them, take a volt meter and check every connection for voltage drop when the slides are being actuated. Problems like this can be hard to find because it only under load.

Denny

 

In my humble opinion, Denny has the right idea. This is what I was attempting to describe in post #20 above, but he did a better job.

Think of it this way... Your circuit is only as good as the weakest link. Finding that weak/poor connection is the challenge.

 

Assuming all of the switches bring no slide action, I believe there are only limited possibilities. One was ruled out when Scott tried replacing the slide fuse to no effect. After that the switch runs to relays which feed off the same power source. I suspect that is the connection that remained elusive in the earlier discussion. They may not be obvious, but are normally not hard to find. But, isn't there is always the exception to the rule.

 

Yes the slide relays are where I need to check. Have not found them yet.

When I have a few, I plan to take everything of the basement, remove the switch panel so I can determine the wiring in the basement and then follow that switch wires.

Take me a few days but will get there.

 

Wish you luck. I'm curious about it. I have a KZ and haven't had an issue, but just in case, I'd like to know.

 

I’m still thinking the problem is going to be found in or near the fuse block. What would cause the red light near the fuse to illuminate except for a voltage drop across the fuse/breaker?

 

Any place in that circuit will cause that light to illuminate. Could be close, could be far.

 

Well no luck. I have attached some pictures.

I pulled the switch panel off and check those wires. All good. they go down into the basement from there.
Down in the basement those wires come up from the underbelly area and are married up with what you see behind the switch panel.

I have an access hole in the underbelly from when new and one of the motors did not work. I opened that up, used some of my best langauge not suited for ears and was able to take a look the entire length of the under belly.

All those wires are the same color so that leads me to beleive that there is no other fuse inline. All the wiring looked perfect and no evidence of critters.

the wiring all goes up front where it disappears around the fresh water tank on the drivers side of the 5th wheel.

I pulled the corner of the belly down in that area and moved the insulation out of the way but could not see the area I need to see or maybe just didn't go in that area.

From the basement those wires head directly into the belly.

I am at a loss but I think what I beleive was done is there is no other fuse block other than the main panel I think the wiring is continous from the switch panel area.

So....is it plausible that the breaker box is bad?


wiring at the switches

wiring as it comes down from the switches, all yellow wires

wiring as it heads into the underbelly

this yellow wire is the ground

wiring as it goes from the switchs into the fuse panel.

 

Wow, didn’t expect to see that. Those are reversing switches. They do not run through relays. Pretty old school. I don’t see those much any more.

Now on each of those switches, one lead is hot coming in. One is a ground and they reverse polarity to each motor. All fed by the same fuse. They have a common connection somewhere.

So your question is whether your panel is bad. Let’s assume the terminal feeding the switches is bad. How do you check it? What needs to happen is first just to be sure check to make sure the lead feeding the fuse and the one feeding the switches are tight. That is lead to and from the fuse. If they are, change the hot to the fuse and from the fuse to a different set of terminals. Yes, rarely but sometime a terminal in the panel goes bad.

if there is still a problem, it is where the lead from the fuse connects to the switches.

good job with what you have done. One of your pictures is the ground buss not the positive connection to the switches.