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Now you just have to wait for it to get cold enough to see the high idle works, which I'm guessing it will.
Hoping so! It's nice to have that little brake light. I also just adjusted my parking brake on either side, it's nice and tight now. Little bit hard to push the pedal but, it holds hard. I feel like I might have tightened them up a little bit much but, a good push and I get about half of the full range of the pedal and its Rock solid. Makes me worry about snapping a park brake cable but, I don't feel like it's THAT tight, just a little tighter than say one of these new trucks. They're like feather light. I kind of stand up on my pedal just a little bit. Its probably fine.... Probably
Have you made any progress on yours? Or have you given up on fixing your light?
All right guys, I'm working with my cousin again today, sitting in his 7.3 while it's warming up, it is 63° outside and his truck just idled up to 1000 rpm. Keep in mind my truck idle for 4 to 5 minutes this morning and never high idled. His truck idled up 2 minutes or so after start. His is a 99.5. maybe that has something to do with it?
My truck will not go into a high idle at ~60°, it is typically in the low 50's or high 40's. Based on my memory anyway, which is worse each day. There is a delay between starting the truck and it kicking into factory high idle. I believe that factory high idle will stay active until it is cancelled by the driver. I don't know this to be true though as each time my truck has gone into factory high idle, I have been the one to cancel it.
Speaking of memory, the motion and pressure you described from your parking brake pedal is right about how mine is and has been for years. I push down a good bit until the brake is set, then I let the truck settle if it feels it wants to, then give the pedal another decent push. I normally have the 5th wheel attached though unless I am parking the truck in its spot or hooking up to the 5th wheel.
Hoping so! It's nice to have that little brake light. I also just adjusted my parking brake on either side, it's nice and tight now. Little bit hard to push the pedal but, it holds hard. I feel like I might have tightened them up a little bit much but, a good push and I get about half of the full range of the pedal and its Rock solid. Makes me worry about snapping a park brake cable but, I don't feel like it's THAT tight, just a little tighter than say one of these new trucks. They're like feather light. I kind of stand up on my pedal just a little bit. Its probably fine.... Probably
Have you made any progress on yours? Or have you given up on fixing your light?
You may have given me a new reason to take it back out and look at it again, to test the continuity on the wiring harness pin that plugs into the back of the cluster. If that works I'd pretty much have it narrowed down to the cluster itself being the problem. Plus I kind of want to do the brighter LED bulbs in the ILL spots. Should have done that when I replaced the lens on the front a couple years ago.
All right guys, I'm working with my cousin again today, sitting in his 7.3 while it's warming up, it is 63° outside and his truck just idled up to 1000 rpm. Keep in mind my truck idle for 4 to 5 minutes this morning and never high idled. His truck idled up 2 minutes or so after start. His is a 99.5. maybe that has something to do with it?
Well mines an L99 and it doesn't kick up that high on a 63F cold start. Not at all actually...it has to be below 50 at least before it will even bump up to 800-850 from the factory 650-700 range. Mine goes up to about 1100 at the highest when it's very cold. There might be some different programming for it in the different PCM versions.
I forgot to finish updating this morning. The high idle automatically turned off when the motor got close to operating temperature on my boss's truck. I guess the PCM code really does make a difference.
Does pushing the clutch in turn off high idle? It's been getting chilly and my high idle still has not been working lately. I have a Hydra engines on the way but, at this point I'm just curious. My truck has the clutch safety sensor that makes you have to push the clutch in to start it bypassed. It was like that when I got it and I've never messed with it. The safety sensor is gone and the only thing I have left is the wires that are crossed over and the connector. If pushing the clutch pedal in could turn off high idle that was explaining why my high idle doesn't work because the truck thinks I have the clutch in all the time. This is just a shot in the wind but I figured I'd ask.
Does pushing the clutch in turn off high idle? It's been getting chilly and my high idle still has not been working lately. I have a Hydra engines on the way but, at this point I'm just curious. My truck has the clutch safety sensor that makes you have to push the clutch in to start it bypassed. It was like that when I got it and I've never messed with it. The safety sensor is gone and the only thing I have left is the wires that are crossed over and the connector. If pushing the clutch pedal in could turn off high idle that was explaining why my high idle doesn't work because the truck thinks I have the clutch in all the time. This is just a shot in the wind but I figured I'd ask.
Yes, the PCM knows if the clutch is in. It's the same input the cruise control uses to cancel and it's also one of the enable criteria for the automatic high idle.
Yes, the PCM knows if the clutch is in. It's the same input the cruise control uses to cancel and it's also one of the enable criteria for the automatic high idle.
I need to buy a new clutch sensor then and hook my clutch safety back up. Or just wait for my Hydra to get here... Well I'm wanting to convert my truck to have cruise control at some point. I think all i need is a new brake master cylinder with the sensor and a new steering wheel with the buttons for it. I think Joel has done it and told me about it. I think you can actually bypass the brake sensor wires but I don't want to do that. I want to do it right.
That was probably the real problem all along. Your high idle doesn’t work because somebody Jimmy-jacked around with something else not realizing it would cause that problem.
That was probably the real problem all along. Your high idle doesn’t work because somebody Jimmy-jacked around with something else not realizing it would cause that problem.
^^^This...
Quote from post #4: the service brake or the clutch being applied will cancel the high idle
There appears to have been an issue with the parking brake switch too, but if I remember correctly it started working without a clearly defined fix action.
Quote from post #4: the service brake or the clutch being applied will cancel the high idle
There appears to have been an issue with the parking brake switch too, but if I remember correctly it started working without a clearly defined fix action.
Yep. You called it way back then and I had already completely forgotten that my truck had the clutch safety bypassed. I'm sure RockAuto probably has the sensor for the clutch pedal. The sensor itself attached to the rod on the master cylinder correct? No other bracketry? All I have is a plug end with the 2 outer wires cut and spliced together. I've never really seen or payed attention to how that sensor mounts. Anybody have a pic?
Also, I know all electrical stuff should be ford parts. the auto parts store be raping you for Ford brand parts. I might just order it from rock auto and wait for it. The motocraft from RockAuto is $57. The parts house brand is 54$ before tax.