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Yep. You called it way back then and I had already completely forgotten that my truck had the clutch safety bypassed. I'm sure RockAuto probably has the sensor for the clutch pedal. The sensor itself attached to the rod on the master cylinder correct? No other bracketry? All I have is a plug end with the 2 outer wires cut and spliced together. I've never really seen or payed attention to how that sensor mounts. Anybody have a pic?
Also, I know all electrical stuff should be ford parts. the auto parts store be raping you for Ford brand parts. I might just order it from rock auto and wait for it. The motocraft from RockAuto is $57. The parts house brand is 54$ before tax.
In the pics posted above they have a plastic cap piece on the top side you pop off. Then grab the whole thing and slide it back torwards rear of truck some. Then pull front side down off of the clutch pushrod and then it comes right off. It's kind of spring loaded and that's what holds it in place on the pushrod.
I actually have two of these laying around if you want them....A Ford stamped one and an aftermarket one which appears to be made by the same company. The problem...neither one of them fit on my 99 even though the part # supposedly matches that year. Different design on the round end that would not tab properly into the firewall side to keep it in place and from twisting around, so I had no choice but to reuse the original one when I replaced the whole pedal assembly and hydraulics several years ago. Never got to the bottom of that one and have no idea what I'd do if the original one broke. Have a look-see at the firewall where the clutch M/C rod comes through and see if these match yours. Maybe take a picture even. On mine it was pretty clear it was the wrong part, which is why I ended up ordering 2 different ones thinking maybe the first was a screw up. $57 is ridiculous though.
I actually have two of these laying around if you want them....A Ford stamped one and an aftermarket one which appears to be made by the same company. The problem...neither one of them fit on my 99 even though the part # supposedly matches that year. Different design on the round end that would not tab properly into the firewall side to keep it in place and from twisting around, so I had no choice but to reuse the original one when I replaced the whole pedal assembly and hydraulics several years ago. Never got to the bottom of that one and have no idea what I'd do if the original one broke. Have a look-see at the firewall where the clutch M/C rod comes through and see if these match yours. Maybe take a picture even. On mine it was pretty clear it was the wrong part, which is why I ended up ordering 2 different ones thinking maybe the first was a screw up. $57 is ridiculous though.
It looks like the right one. Here's a picture of my master cylinder where it pokes through the wall. I'll pay you for it whatever you want. Shoot me a PM if you also think it's the right one. I appreciate it.
UPS store is open till 6:30 so I can get over there tomorrow after work and send one of these off to you. Just PM your address and you don't need to pay me anything.
I took my old one out and compared it closely...it's an old P/N they discontinued apparently, and these newer ones aren't identical for whatever reason. You've got the same thing going on with the firewall connection point (the tab) that is supposed to engage the slot on the clutch switch to keep it from twirling around on the MC rod, but on these newer switches the slot for the tab is too small. You can't really tell that from the pictures but it is after playing around with the digital calipers. The slot on the one I will send you needs to be filed out a little both length and width wise to fit the tab on the firewall. They also added a tab on the switch body itself which made no sense whatsoever but as you can see from the pics I filed the tab off one of them in a vain attempt to get it to work. Like I said I basically just gave up and put the older one back in but I recall that it fit fine on the rod and the wiring harness connected properly, so I assume it will work fine as you can do a little guess-and-check grinding to get the firewall tab to fit.
UPS store is open till 6:30 so I can get over there tomorrow after work and send one of these off to you. Just PM your address and you don't need to pay me anything.
I took my old one out and compared it closely...it's an old P/N they discontinued apparently, and these newer ones aren't identical for whatever reason. You've got the same thing going on with the firewall connection point (the tab) that is supposed to engage the slot on the clutch switch to keep it from twirling around on the MC rod, but on these newer switches the slot for the tab is too small. You can't really tell that from the pictures but it is after playing around with the digital calipers. The slot on the one I will send you needs to be filed out a little both length and width wise to fit the tab on the firewall. They also added a tab on the switch body itself which made no sense whatsoever but as you can see from the pics I filed the tab off one of them in a vain attempt to get it to work. Like I said I basically just gave up and put the older one back in but I recall that it fit fine on the rod and the wiring harness connected properly, so I assume it will work fine as you can do a little guess-and-check grinding to get the firewall tab to fit.
Pm sent. Thanks again. I see what you're saying now. I also see that you have a plastic cap on your master it's only where his mine is metal. Maybe all of this has something to do with different master cylinders. Maybe the latest updated switch has to go with the latest updated mc. I replaced my entire hydraulic assembly for the clutch with a pre bled ready to go system from O'Reilly's.
I'm sure I can make it fit one way or another! I really appreciate you, thanks again!
That might be the case. Hopefully the wires weren't cut too close to the connector. That will be kind of a bitch trying to get those crimped back together in the footwell.
That might be the case. Hopefully the wires weren't cut too close to the connector. That will be kind of a bitch trying to get those crimped back together in the footwell.
The terminals are a piece of cake to get out of the connector. Remove the terminals (note where they are first!!) then do the wire repairs (crimp or solder) then push the wires back into the connector and reconnect the connector to the switch.
I'm going to see if I can find some of those Sylvania Zevo LED wedge bulbs around here for the cluster backlighting and will troubleshoot the parking brake light again. Never checked for continuity on the wiring harness pin that goes to it and now I/m curious
Okay so I dug into the clutch pedal wiring, I wanted to see if possibly untwisting the wires that were crossed would make my high idle work because then essentially the clutch pedal would be released as far as the PCM knows. Unfortunately, my high idle still did not work. My next question is, why are there four wires going to the switch? They're only three pins on my connector so one of them probably fell out or was removed by one of the previous owners. Does anybody have a diagram for that particular plug?
I'm going to see if I can find some of those Sylvania Zevo LED wedge bulbs around here for the cluster backlighting and will troubleshoot the parking brake light again. Never checked for continuity on the wiring harness pin that goes to it and now I/m curious
Make sure you bend the tabs on the parking brake light bulb holder outwards a little bit so it will make better contact with the cluster. As I stated in one of my previous comments, I was unable to get that continuity check to work. I may have been on the wrong wire though. I thought I tried all of them but obviously, I did something wrong. I'm not sure what color the parking brake wire is when it gets up to the cluster. I just followed the bulb wiring on the board itself up to it's corresponding pin on the connector and assumed that was the brake wire. Then again, my voltage meter has been really messed up lately with the ends of the needles coming out of the pens so, I need to get a new one. regardless, good luck, I hope you find the problem!
Okay so I dug into the clutch pedal wiring, I wanted to see if possibly untwisting the wires that were crossed would make my high idle work because then essentially the clutch pedal would be released as far as the PCM knows. Unfortunately, my high idle still did not work. My next question is, why are there four wires going to the switch? They're only three pins on my connector so one of them probably fell out or was removed by one of the previous owners. Does anybody have a diagram for that particular plug?
2 are for starting circuit. And 2 are for cruise control cancel.
That's right, you did say that. I had completely forgotten about that. So I do need to hook that back up.
I need a new pin then. Does anyone have a link where I might could just buy the whole new connector with new pins? I also need to find a diagram for which wire goes where. I wish my FSM was working right now. I really need to get my old computer back out.
Edit* the parts store has a new connector for 65$.... Wow
