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Got you, thanks for all the help everyone. I will work on getting me a Hydra and gauges and I will just not worry about the factory high idle. I will still change the bulb out for the break but I will quit worrying about the high idle function of the PCM. Again, thanks everybody for your help and advice.
Fixing the bulb is a good idea and a nice "feature" to let you know when the parking brake is on or off. Especially since you have the ZF6.
Originally Posted by Hyakkimaru
Cleatus, after reading what you said I completely agree. I probably would be better off with a manually engaged high idle. I just need to make sure I disengage it before I take off. Thank you for your advice.
He is right, you will find much more utility from a user commanded high idle. I think you will find it difficult to not notice the high idle is engaged prior to taking off. The noise level is dramatically different, at least in my opinion.
Originally Posted by Hyakkimaru
Speaking of which, you can change Hydra modes mid idle correct? You don't have to turn the truck off and back on or anything?
The only time you need to perform a key cycle is when you are going to position 00, which is the bypass and reverts to OEM tuning. Other than that, the Hydra is 100% switch on the fly with the engine running. You can even change tunes going down the road if you like. I have my Hydra controller/switcher mounted in a place that I cannot see it from the driver seat. This works well for me as I don't switch tunes hardly at all anymore. If I want to go to high idle, I will start the truck, give it a few seconds, switch to high idle and walk away. When I come back, I switch back to 65 HP, climb in and get on my way.
Very easy and user friendly.
Originally Posted by Hyakkimaru
Sous, the Windows PC that I have the FSM on has gotten to the point where even though it is a new laptop, it cannot function properly. It was given to me for free because it did not work after they bought it and the reason being is it just does not have the power to do anything. It is so slow booting up that you have to turn the computer on a half hour before you want to use it and then it still might not let you put your password in yet. When you go to put your password in it takes 3 seconds after every button push before it registers what button you pressed. It's not even worth using it's so slow. So I want to buy a new one. I got to thinking about it I would also like to have forescan on it for tuning the speedometer. Does it matter if it's Windows 10 or up? Basically what windows will and won't work with the hydraflash? Also yhank you for posting those videos. I have installed hydro-flash on that computer but as stated that computer seems to no longer be usable. I had it completely redone and wiped and it worked good for another month or so and it messed up again. It's just a cheap junky computer. I was thinking of getting one of those tablet PC's with the fold away keyboard and touch screen. I feel it would be easier to use that inside the truck than it would be a full laptop. But do they even make a full-on PC like that?
It is too bad the person ended up with a lemon laptop... If you can surf the internet with the laptop, it will work for HydraFlash. I have a 25 year old 7" netbook that I use to change the tunes on the Hydra when I was doing that sort of thing. You will need a Windows PC/laptop to use HydraFlash.
The Windows version does not matter as far as I know, but I am 100% confident HydraFlash and FORScan work on Windows 7 and 10. You could check with PHP to make sure HydraFlash works on Windows 11 and I would be willing to bet lunch that FORScan works on Windows 11 otherwise we would have heard about it by now.
Speaking of lunch, you could use the really slow (RS) laptop while making and eating lunch in order to change the Hydra tune positions. Even if it takes an hour, nothing is lost except for the extra time in order to accomplish the goal which is to have a user commanded high idle.
There are full PC Windows versions of laptops with folding and reversible screens, but they get pricey quick. It sounds like you don't want or need a Chromebook as that is nothing more than a tablet with a bit more power and an attached keyboard.
Tristan, you can find the PCM code on the case as shown below.
You can also attain some details about the PCM from the FORScan software, but I am not sure if you will find what you are looking for, I cannot remember for sure what is displayed there.
I copied the instructions from a post by FTE'r jimjokjv a while back and it is below. The instructions are for the PC version, but I believe you can still retrieve the PCM details from the mobile device (FORScan Lite) version.
Turn the key on and start Forscan. After it recognizes your truck's configuration and you click yes, move your cursor to the top left box where the yellow "I" (info) is and make sure it is selected. Then on your screen select the Configuration Tab. It should lay out all the current information for your truck.
For what you’re wanting to do I would consider just posting up to your friends on social media about a PC. You likely have a friend who’s got one ready for the trash bin. Doesn’t sound like you have any need for a new computer. It just has to connect to internet and function well enough to run the very simple Hydraflash software.
Or possibly you have a friend who wouldn’t mind adding the software on their laptop. You could stop for a visit and program it in 10 minutes.
I’ve done that for a couple friends with SCT tuners (ecoboost and 6.7) and no computer.
Fixing the bulb is a good idea and a nice "feature" to let you know when the parking brake is on or off. Especially since you have the ZF6.
He is right, you will find much more utility from a user commanded high idle. I think you will find it difficult to not notice the high idle is engaged prior to taking off. The noise level is dramatically different, at least in my opinion.
The only time you need to perform a key cycle is when you are going to position 00, which is the bypass and reverts to OEM tuning. Other than that, the Hydra is 100% switch on the fly with the engine running. You can even change tunes going down the road if you like. I have my Hydra controller/switcher mounted in a place that I cannot see it from the driver seat. This works well for me as I don't switch tunes hardly at all anymore. If I want to go to high idle, I will start the truck, give it a few seconds, switch to high idle and walk away. When I come back, I switch back to 65 HP, climb in and get on my way.
Very easy and user friendly.
It is too bad the person ended up with a lemon laptop... If you can surf the internet with the laptop, it will work for HydraFlash. I have a 25 year old 7" netbook that I use to change the tunes on the Hydra when I was doing that sort of thing. You will need a Windows PC/laptop to use HydraFlash.
The Windows version does not matter as far as I know, but I am 100% confident HydraFlash and FORScan work on Windows 7 and 10. You could check with PHP to make sure HydraFlash works on Windows 11 and I would be willing to bet lunch that FORScan works on Windows 11 otherwise we would have heard about it by now.
Speaking of lunch, you could use the really slow (RS) laptop while making and eating lunch in order to change the Hydra tune positions. Even if it takes an hour, nothing is lost except for the extra time in order to accomplish the goal which is to have a user commanded high idle.
There are full PC Windows versions of laptops with folding and reversible screens, but they get pricey quick. It sounds like you don't want or need a Chromebook as that is nothing more than a tablet with a bit more power and an attached keyboard.
Would a chrome book work? I didn't know Chrome books ran on windows 10.
I might pull that old laptop back out and try it again.
Even with a mostly stock truck, I should prob get gauges before a Hydra you think?
Also, did you buy your Hydra from riff raff? I also can't remember, I'm sure I asked before but, did I need the custom tuning option? I would think not with out special injectors and what not.
Would a chrome book work? I didn't know Chrome books ran on windows 10.
No, a Chromebook will not work and it runs on a different operating system than any edition of Windows. They did a great job at making the Chromebook look like a Windows laptop, but it isn't.
Originally Posted by Hyakkimaru
I might pull that old laptop back out and try it again.
I would, and take your time it isn't a race.
Originally Posted by Hyakkimaru
Even with a mostly stock truck, I should prob get gauges before a Hydra you think?
An EGT gauge at a minimum with the Hydra, but if you run the most conservative tune, you should be OK if you need more time to get gauges. Should being the key word.
Originally Posted by Hyakkimaru
Also, did you buy your Hydra from riff raff? I also can't remember, I'm sure I asked before but, did I need the custom tuning option? I would think not with out special injectors and what not.
I bought mine from Gear Head many years ago, but I am now running PHP tunes from their included library after trying Gear Head and 1023. Any reputable shop like Riffraff, CNC, Bitterroot will get you sorted out.
You don't need custom tuning and you can always get them later. The Hydra comes will a library of tunes for your stock injectors. Just be sure to install the USB cable and coil the large end under the dash somewhere for future and easy access.
I have not been able to stop and look up at my PCM to get the part number yet but, here's what forescan says about it. I don't think it shows what y'all are looking for.
Do I need to take the connector off the PCM to see the code? I sure can't see it. It's in a really tight spot to get to. I've got a mirror on a stick but I can't see anything.
Edit: found a video on YouTube of where to find the code. Give me a few minutes
XPC4. I couldn't see it from the top because of the direction the wires were going. I found it through the wheel well. Took the lower bolts loose and popped it out a little bit. You can just barely see at the top left of the picture. But it's there
I would recommend an EGT gauge before tunes, even if you go the cheap route for now. It can be replaced later if it ever gives you trouble.
I had a couple thoughts if you don’t end up having a compatible PC.
There are small companies (seen on Facebook groups often) that will program a Hydra for you before shipping it out.
Alternatively, you could ship to a trusted friend, they could load them and then send it on to you. This option costs more though due to double shipping.
I would recommend an EGT gauge before tunes, even if you go the cheap route for now. It can be replaced later if it ever gives you trouble.
I had a couple thoughts if you don’t end up having a compatible PC.
There are small companies (seen on Facebook groups often) that will program a Hydra for you before shipping it out.
Alternatively, you could ship to a trusted friend, they could load them and then send it on to you. This option costs more though due to double shipping.
Darn, if only I had my Hydra before I went to georgia for the gtg. I can get Jason to program it for me.
Quick question, so the indicator bulb for the brake has to work for your high idle to work correct? We already established that so, as I stated I want to replace the bulb anyway just because. Without having to go buy a bulb I have an LED bulb in the back of the truck that will fit that slot. Would the LED bulb still cause the high idle to work or would it not draw enough amperage kind of like a LED blinker blinking fast because it's not drawing enough amperage. Would putting the LED bulb in cause my high idle to still not work?
I know we already established not to worry about high idle till I get a hydra I'm just curious at this point.
