I have been working at adjusting the steering box the last couple days by tightening the sector shaft screw. The "slop" in the steering improved but I still have about 4" of freeplay, and have no more turns left on the screw. It would appear that I will need a new sector shaft and possibly a worm gear as well.
I searched through Macs Auto Parts but they don't seem to offer the sector parts. Is Ecklers my best bet?
I do have a spare steering box and may try using it first.

 

How is the worm gear shaft play?
I'd look at Van Pelt for parts: Ford Suspension Parts Prices - Page 3

 

I did bushings, bearings and seals last Spring. I don't have a gauge to check load on the worm shaft, might be a little tight. I will look into Van Pelts, thanks.Ross.

 

Here's an adjustment writeup I put "here" when it was just a mailing list. You may know it all already, but here goes.The procedure in the 49-52 manual is to:

1. Disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm.

2. Loosen the steering column tube to instrument panel bracket.

3. Back the side (sector) adjustment out (counterclockwise) to remove any load. (That's the bolt on the side of the steering box)

4. Measure the force needed to rotate the wheel at the center of its rotation.

This is kinda the hard part. Ford must have had a spring scale, like a fish scale, which read in ounces. "The force needed to rotate the wheel at the center of its rotation' should be 1/4 to 3/4 pound on F1, F2, and F3, 1/2 to 1 lb on all others." I used a postal scale to measure the weight of some sockets, then put them in a mesh bag my wife (used to) use for washing 'delicates,' then ran its tie sting from the top of the steering wheel off to the side, then over a socket extension straight down. I think this translates into the force needed to turn the wheel. I also measured quarters ($0.25 pieces) to see what they weighed, if you don't have a scale. 1/4 pound (4 ounces) is ~16 quarters, 3/4 pound (12 ounces) is therefore ~48 quarters. You take it from there. If this measurement isn't right, you need to change the stack of shims under the steering shaft at the bottom of the gearbox. The shims are actually gaskets of varying thicknesses, and a selection is available from most of our common suppliers. However, to tighten the existing preload, you'll just be removing shims, so if you remove the bottom plate carefully, you can reuse the ones you have. This is a messy and iterative process. You need to have some gear lube in the box to accurately measure the turning force, then you need to remove the bottom plate to change shims, which dribbles gear lube all over. Once this is in spec, center the wheel. Then, turn the 'sector shaft thrust adjusting screw' (side adjuster) until 'all end play is removed from the sector shaft.' Then the force needed to rotate the wheel at the center of it's rotation should measure between 1 and 2 pounds on the F1, F2, and F3, and 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 pounds on other models. I have found that when the gears are too worn, tightening the sector shaft adjusting screw too much jams the sector against the housing, which of course makes the wheel harder to turn, but doesn't reduce the free play or have the intended affect on steering accuracy. Then there's nothing left to do but replace the steering shaft (worm) and sector, or the whole box. Other things that wear out are the roller bearings on top and below the worm on the steering shaft, the bushings on the outside of the sector, and the seal on the outside of the sector. If you're going to the expense (considerable) of replacing the worm and sector, its probably worth replacing at least the bearings and the seal. The bushings must require reaming to size, but I've never messed with those, so can't give practical advice.
There you have it, almost straight from Ol' Henry. Simple, huh?

 

Thanks for your post jr. I checked the spare steering box I have yesterday It seems to have play in it too. I think my recourse is to get replacement parts which as you say will be a considerable expense. My net worth is slowly shrinking.

 

Wanna make a million dollars messing with old Ford trucks? Start out with 2 million

 

Ha, yeah Bobby, got a ways to go yet to get to $2M, unless I live longer than the average.

Today I decided to fix the fuel leak. I have gone down the AN fitting rabbit hole, so pulled out the supply and return 3/8" tubing and starting from scratch with high priced flex line front to back. Older but not wiser I'm afraid.

Also dropped off my spare steering box for refurbishment today. The tech thinks the gears will be good. Hope I am pleasantly surprised.

 

Fuel lines replumbed. Not pressured up and not leaking.
Maybe I'll leave it that way.

 

I got a call yesterday from the steering shop where I took my two steering boxes for rebuild. They are able to source gears for the roller and worm shafts but unfortunately they fit the larger F4 to F6 series trucks. I've corresponded with Mac at VanPelts who has worm gears but not the sector shaft. Based on info from this forum I contacted CPP but they only offer complete kits. I am waiting word back from them. Both of my steering boxes have new bushings, bearings and seals but still need gears for proper adjustment. They deal with a supplier for the larger parts so I am going to contact them for leads.

 

CPP may only offer full rebuild kits through their own sales, but they still have the sector gear/bearings/pin and the worm gear/steering shaft listed on eBay.

It does seem like a strange business model.

 

I have a message out with CPP sales, hope to hear back from them regarding fitment first. I've contacted a company in Argentina CHS too, who supply parts to a reputable shop here in Canada.

 

After waiting for replies from a couple suppliers I decided to go with Dennis Carpenter for the worm gear and sector gear. I was hoping to order two sets because I have a spare steering box but nixed that based on DC's internationl shipping base rate of 40% of total order cost to get it to Canada?
I hope to receive the parts mid January.