So I recently got a 2003 F250 6.0. The check out at my mechanic came back generally pretty good, but as predicted it has a bad ball joint. Me and a buddy will be tearing it down in a few weeks to replace the ball joints (Moog), driver and passenger U-joints (Moog greaseable), wheel bearings (Timken), and putting in new axle seals (probably Timken). Anything else I should be doing while we are in there? The mechanics said the tie rods and steering components all look good. I hate starting a job and realizing half way through I need some part.

Also looking at putting in new brake rotors or pads since I will be using it to tow a 10K trailer and traveling through the Rockies. Any recommendations there would be welcome. I'll be posting that in the towing forum though.

Thanks for any input or recommended vendors.

 

Personally I would use Dana Spicer ball joints over Moog

i would make sure you pack the stub shaft bearing on the Timken hub. It’s the bearing o the back side of the hub that the half shaft goes through. Timken likes to use a stacked needle bearing which is ok. Just pack it with grease. If they run dry they will destroy the stubshaft. Look up NBB2110. I have some National Bearig ones I’ll ost a part number. I may do a video on it just haven’t had the time . I personally replace them with caged bearings. Also remove the ABS sensor and pack the hub with grease. Keep turning the hub by hand and pack grease in the hub. You’ll be surprised how much you’ll get in. I use a zerk fitting on the tip of the grease gun and hold that that in the ABS sensor hole and pump it up.
this packing of the bearig and ABS should be a yearly thing. Also replacing the yellow rubber o ring for the hub.

while yiure there check the vacuum hoses going to the hubs (if equipped with SOTF system)

since yiu got it apart to this extent I would strongly suggest you do the front axle shaft u joints and if yiu never changed them the double seal on the axle shaft. Use ford stuff. Al’s get greasable u joints get greasable and yiull need a plug as the zerks usually interfere. I just remove the plug throw a zerk on there and pulp a few squirts at every oil change. Then put the plug back in. Takes a few seconds and it’s easy to do.

Service the outer manual hubs while you’re there. Also make sure th3 three washers yiu pull off go back in the exact way and order they came off.

 

Sorry, thought I posted a reply to this a couple weeks ago. Thanks for the tip on the Spicer gear. I'm getting the Spicer U-joints, but leaning toward the XRF Ball joints after going down that rabbit hole. Main thing is it looks like Moog is not once they once were.

Thanks again!

 

Uunfortunately they aren’t. Everyone now has their stupid tier line. AC Democrats is the worse. I stopped using them due to the high amount of counterfeit parts out there. Motor-craft is getting to be that way too. I do t buy off Amazon or EBay. I go straight to the websites and find a loxal
dealer. It may cost a bit more but at least I’m getting the real deal

 

Did this awhile back myself, so its sorta fresh so here's some tips from when I did mine.

Like dualwheel said, avoid Moog. Been their done that.

I ended up using Movetech TTX (Terrain Tough Extreme)
comes with a nice installer adapter cup.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...72508&pt=10070
Rockauto listing
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ll+joint,10070

Second I live in the Pacific Northwest with road spray in the winter so I'm not as bad as the rust belts, but it does get hard to get some parts apart.

I ended up waiting and purchasing a Posi Lock puller to pull the old wheel bearings off.
(Worked like a dream) as I've heard and read of others horror stories trying to remove theirs.
Puller link

3rd I ended up purchasing just to have on hand in case my hub thrust washers in case mine were cracked.
(Glad I did, one side was cracked.)
Link

4th I ended up pinching my top ball join (FORGET NAME/Terminology.) Alignment washer.
It was hard to turn to one side and easy to turn to the other side because of this. Ended up taking the side apart again and tightening in the correct order. Ended up making a youtube video to explain this.
Link

Ended up going Timken bearings myself but read of others not being greased and failing very shortly.
I took my ABS sensor out and pumping wheel bearing grease into while I spun it just in case it wasn't greased. Extra
grease will simply find its way out later. Been fine since.

If its 4x4 I'd also redo the u-joints while your already into it. Ended up just giving it to a drive-line guy thats right next to my work and he did both sides for like 80$ total. Really cheap & nice and tight, gave him spicers, he ended up using Ford OEM because he said he liked the fit better.

Also be careful re-installing the spline shaft into the front diff! Go slowly to correctly line the splines up and you will
feel it when it slides in correctly.

Get some O-rings grease and lube the O-rings on the back of the Timken Bearing that most fail to mention. This helps insure
that you don't pinch it and it seats properly during install.

Lastly BUY THE OEM FORD Tool to seat the shaft seal. Worked like a dream & didn't have to worry about the correct install depth with it.
Link to tool

Here's some pics, have a lot as alot of guys I work with ask how to do it themselves so I snap pics as I go usually.


Hub Puller,

Hub Removed


New Ball Joints Installed, Paint Prep

Wire Wheeled off A TON of dirt.

Looks good! Ball Joints feel nice and solid.

Painted

New U-Joints installed

Installing, used a floor jack to hold it in place. Tighten in the correct order!

O-Ring lube

All together.

Hub cleaning, repacking.

 

Well that was a good time. The U-joints looked like they must've been original. Passenger side ball joints and hub were shot. Ended up just putting in new hubs and saving the one good one as a spare.

I went with the Spicer non-greaseable Life U-joints, Spicer non--greaseable ball joints, and NAPA Fleet hubs - mostly because they were what was available on short notice.

Crossing my fingers to get some mileage out of everything, but I'll do an update if something fails in the next year or so.

Thanks again for all the advice.