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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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Old Aug 25, 2022 | 02:35 AM
  #16  
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wwhite
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Unless the shift points are drastically different between a 302 and 351
Depends on the truck, and what rear end gears came in it.
What was the code on your original computer, and what is the code on the new computer?
What rear end gear and what size tires you have?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2022 | 08:58 AM
  #17  
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From: SJ TX
Originally Posted by wwhite
Depends on the truck, and what rear end gears came in it.
What was the code on your original computer, and what is the code on the new computer?
What rear end gear and what size tires you have?
3.55 or 3.73 open. 31x10.50r15. Cant get the computer information at the current moment
 
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Old Sep 1, 2022 | 06:48 PM
  #18  
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From: SJ TX
Little update, truck has been running good. I replaced MLPS and the pigtail, every single one of the wires was worn through, and the body of the sensor broken in 3 places. Drove the truck and it shifted significantly better, still a shudder but not as noticeable, and I had to look for / simulate the conditions it happens under. Truck has stalled on me once or twice, always restarting after putting it in neutral and hitting the key. Went for a drive today and it died right out the parking spot, cranks and cranks.. put a spark tester on it and no spark. Tested for voltage at the back of the coil and its bouncing 0-6.5v 0-7.8v repeatedly, wait a few and it restarts, runs 10 seconds then I can see the voltage drop from 12.5 to 11 to 7 before it dies, I can visably see the spark get weaker and more inconsistent (all in the span of a few seconds.) now it just cranks, no voltage to coil. Wiggled all my wires, I have replaced all the pigtails on this harness with new connectors and every single connection is soldered and heatshrinked, so I dont think it is the harness. What else could be causing this? I checked all fuses and they are fine, fuel pump cycles with key still. TIA!!
 
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Old Sep 2, 2022 | 06:34 AM
  #19  
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Coil power comes from fuse U in the power distribution box. That fuse gets power via the ignition switch when the key is in the Run and Start position. I have seen a few cases where the radio capacitor is pulling down the supply voltage but not enough to blow the fuse. Easy to disconnect it to see if your issue goes away.
 
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