great foc

thanks for posting

 

i checked the sensor and it was surprisingly clean. The mesh part was clean. No flakes no rust no nothing in either parts. Should I replace the sensor while I have it ripped apart? I also found out the turbo shaft was a little loose and had a little play up and down and in and out with a little oil but I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it. I need to figure out what’s throwing these codes. I have the new fuel filters on order. I checked both but both looked clean

 

That is surprising, your CP4 might not be the issue after all...

Did you happen to check your fuel rail pressure sensor while you were at it?

 

i replaced the sensor on the fuel rail closest to the drivers side because when I looked up the p228f code on google, a picture of that sensor comes up and videos and forums etc…

but the wierd part is after replacing that sensor the p228f code didn’t turn off but changed to unknown dtc whatever that means. And another code came on p0191 which when I google that code another sensor comes up. I pulled that sensor off yesterday and it had very very little rust on it. I figured it was bad as well. But everyone is telling me it’s the cp4. I’m on a strict budget after having a baby so I’m trying to find a more exact answer instead of dumping money and playing guessing games lol.

 

Have you used forscan to compare fuel pressure commanded vs actual.

Also check in forscan lift pump pressure.


read all the codes in forscan vs using a Walmart code reader.

 

The fact you see rust post pump is a red flag. There should be nothing on any of the sensors, they should be pristine. I would do as above and use the diagnostic tools in Forscan to see what it actually happening. It could be a stuck injector causing low pressure. Is the oil clean and undiluted?

 

Both sensors on the rail can still work despite the rust, however, the water is a cp4 killer as many people have found out the hard way. Checking your actual v. commanded rail pressures is definitely the best next move (as stated above).

Maybe try not to drive it too much until you pinpoint the problem. Replacing just a pump and fuel rails will cost way less than putting in new injectors too

hoping for the best

 

I'm reviving this thread from the dead, As some people said I replaced the fuel regulator with both a 2022 and 2011-2019 I'm actually going to go back and replace me rail pressor sensor today with the old one. But at first I was running with the old regulator but the motor would cut out under load as the pressure was too high but that may have been from a slow acting regulator.
With the 2020 it ran perfectly for 15 mins driving then came in the driveway and it died I figured maybe the sensor was just working at different voltages and it got stuck open, so I replaced it with the earlier model one (Which also confused me as if you order a long block from ford it is a 2020+ motor with a converting wiring harness) But same symptoms persisted with the 2011-2019 Regulator.
No signs of contamination in the fuel system and the Desired and Actual seem to match up fine plus normally when the pump fails it would be learning limits - too low. The OP I think has been the only other person experiencing this particular code that has posted on it. It's also just odd since I also started getting hard starts when warm just after all this. Before I never had codes and it was starting perfectly. No odd or new sounds from the motor or exhaust, Sometimes it will start with the reduced power setting, if I clear the codes it flips and runs fine again but P228F Fuel Press Regulator A Exceeded Learning Limits - Too High is a constant.

EDIT: I am also going to look at my return line from rail. I just had a random thought the braided line looked crushed when I was replacing the rail, so I'm going to mess with that along with going back to the old sensor.
(This is a fresh build motor which had a new 2020+ CP4 plumbed correctly of which the injectors and rails were new 2011-2014 from previous owner.)

 

I never found the issue. I replaced EVERY sensor that has to do with the fuel that I could find, the two on the rail and the one under the intake manifold on top of the cp4, I replaced the fuel filters, used fuel treatment, and I got for scan which didn’t show me much. There were no signs of fuel contamination. The fuel was clean in both filters and the mesh was clean on the sensor on top of the cp4. The same two codes come on so I’m at the point where I don’t care. I hope it explodes and I’ll take the loss at this point. Horrible engine horrible truck. Cummins is the way to go ole 5.9 24 valve lol. But as of right now I still drive it every day and have to clear the codes every time I start the truck. I even completed the egr delete because it was only dpf deleted and I was hoping that might fix it but it didn’t do a thing. Maybe over time someone can come up with a solid answer

 

Well turns out the tuner was still basing my fueling off a 2011-2014 cp4. Why it took a month to reach this IDK. I had sent the build list multiple times. So hopefully monday it will be cured. I'm right there with you. I have a 12 valve that was decently build up with a 72mm single and while it liked the break things behind the engine the engine itself has never skipped a beat with the constant abuse coupled with still being a daily. My brother had a 6.7 Cummins for a while and I was the one normally working on it as he wasn't the mechanic type and that trust was still way more straight forward and easy to work on when compared to a V. So while they shared similar things (Especially in the emissions department) and issues the working on it part was still enough for me to say I'd rather have that.