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E = 361 2V --OR-- 4V. Same code for both in '76. XD FT gas V8
V = Kentucky Truck Plant
B64674 = 1976 numerical series, February 1976 production
If you have a warranty plate on the driver door or can otherwise find the model number, we can find the GVWR.
F700s had the following model/gvwr combos that year per the MPC:
F700 = 19,200
F701 = 21,000
F702 = 22,000
F703 = 23,000
F704 & 705 = 24,000
F706 = 25,500
F707 = 22,000 for MY '73 to '77
F707 for '78 and up is 25,000 but would not apply to your '76
F708 & 709 are '78 and up and again do not apply to a '76
Thanks very much. There isn't a plate on the door as the cab was repainted somewhere along the line and the plate was removed.
it has regular, hydraulic brakes if that lends a clue as to the gross weight.
Where would be another location to look for a model identification?
While the engine was originally a 361, my uncle says it was replaced with a 400 sometime over the course of his ownership. I'm not a Ford expert, but does this appear to a small block 400?
Not a 400, and be glad. That appears to be an OEM type FT engine. The plugs are angled as so: //\\, where the 400s are !!!!.
The first and easiest way to ID an FE or FT is the intake manifold--it extends under the valve covers on those, and it's the only Ford engine series like that.
If it has a 4bbl carb, it could be a 391, but chances are it's the OEM motor. But keep in mind it could also be a 4bbl 361. If you can pull a plug, you can use a wire to measure the stroke. 3.50" for the 361, 3.78" for the 391.
I made this into a thread for your truck for clarity and because we are beyond a VIN decode.
While trying to get this truck running, I discovered that the accelerator pump is leaking. I pulled the carburetor and found that 3 of the pump diaphragm cover screw holes are buggered out. I called Holley and they told me that a new float bowl assembly is no longer available.
I'm not a big fan of Holley carburetors and prefer Edelbrocks and would like to install a 1405, but there is the question of the governor and the vacuum line that goes to the distributor. From what I've gleaned from reading through some threads on here, I can swap out the carb for an Edelbrock if I cap off the vacuum line that goes to the distributor at the distributor body. Is this correct that it will run normally with only the vacuum advance hooked up to the carb?
Another issue that has cropped up is that when I pulled the key out of the ignition, the whole ignition cylinder assembly popped out and a couple of springs followed and fell to the floor. What's the easiest way to remedy this situation?
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