Hi, all.

First, recently my 2013 4x4 has started engaging the rear diff lock even when I don't request it. The solution so far has been to tap on the switch or to engage the lock and disengage it (pull & push switch). I'm assuming that these are super easy to change (a few clips, or maybe more than a few clips to get the trim out, and maybe I need the center stack out first, but then it should be unscrewing and unclipping the switch, and then reversing that process). Is this a common failure?

Second, a while ago on these boards I reported that my 2013's steering wheel audio controls quit working correctly (pressing forward ends up going back to the start of the song; forward increases volume; whatever; weird things like that). The solution, I was told, was to replace the switch grouping. I did that, and it worked for a month or so but now the problem is back. I bought a set on eBay; did I just get a second bad set? Do I need to buy a new one from my local dealership? It was super nice to have working steering wheel audio controls, and I'd like to have that again. I'm not insane, though, so I don't want to repeat this process with the same result. Any way to have a better result?

Thanks, all.

 

If it is not the switch, it could need the clock spring replaced.
Was the switch you replace the original one with a Ford part or aftermarket, Fords have a notorious problem with aftermarket electric parts.

 

Thanks, I'll get a genuine switch and then replace that. I'm sure that will fix it.

 

Switches are just resistors. They pass thru the clock spring and end up somewhere under the steering wheel. They go into a box that converts the resistance to CAN network requests.
If you have a wiring diagram, you could certainly test the switches (there is a resistance value for each).