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Multifunction Switch?

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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 07:17 PM
  #1  
n5926g's Avatar
n5926g
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From: Hernando Ms
Multifunction Switch?

Hi guys, Ive recently had a problem with my LH turn signal...Both lamps are good(checked that first) anyway,when I push the arm down(locked for left turn) approaching a turn,it just cliks real fast,and there is no front signal...However if I just push down and hold it just shy of the locking position it works fine.Right side works normally.
Ive heard of issues with the multi-function switch,and have had intermittent wiper issues since I got the truck.Should I just replace the whole shootin match,or am I deascribing two different issues,with two different switches.
Looks like in either case the Steering whells gotta come off...As always,replies appreciated.
PS,sorry...97 F-150XL,LWB Automatic. 6 banger...
 
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 07:42 PM
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firefighter1416
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this is pretty simple to get two the plastick that is around your shifter and the hazard switch comes off, there are 2 or 3 screws on the botom, uscrew the tilt wheel control and use a pick to take the ignition switch out. there is a hole right underneath the swicht that you stick the pick or the small screwdriver in then just turn the switch a little and it comes out. as far as the MFS goes it could be the switch or if i remember right this wireing gets pulled out from the harness from years of ups and downs with the tilt wheel. i had the same problem i just can;t remember what the cause was but it wasn;t the switch, good luck
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 09:25 AM
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ddrumman2004
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From: N. Mississippi
My son's 2000 XL had the same symptoms and he purchased a new switch only to find what Firefighter has stated. The wires in the connector were pulling out from the actual connector that inserts into the switch.
This was due to what we think was his excessive use of the tilt wheel in that he raised and lowerd it everytime he got in/out of the truck since it was new.

Like Fire stated, remove the tilt "stem"(screws out) and the three screws that hold the plastic covers in place. I find it much easier to remove the lock cylinder after you drop the bottom cover. Turn switch to run position then push on the little "ball" and pull out.

My son repaired his connection by inserting all the wires fully and then applying rtv to the back of the connector.

Hope this helps!
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 12:20 PM
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Ron W.
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From: Stockton Ca.
Yes it sounds like your M/F switch or one of the connectors may be the problem, be sure to inspect both sides of the connectors for signs of heat.
When I replaced the switch on my 97 I did not need to remove the ignition lock cylinder, simply lifting up on the left side of the upper steering column cover gave me plenty of room.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 05:13 PM
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n5926g
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From: Hernando Ms
Excellent replys guys! that gets me where I wanna be.
As always,thanks for the sound advice!
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 09:46 AM
  #6  
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ddrumman2004
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From: N. Mississippi
Originally Posted by Ron W.
Yes it sounds like your M/F switch or one of the connectors may be the problem, be sure to inspect both sides of the connectors for signs of heat.
When I replaced the switch on my 97 I did not need to remove the ignition lock cylinder, simply lifting up on the left side of the upper steering column cover gave me plenty of room.
That's what I did when I replaced my MF switch about 5 years ago. I was a little leery of removing the ignition lock cylinder but now after removing my instrument cluster to replace lamps, it's a piece of cake!

The hardest part of removing all that, for me, is the headlight switch. Takes a little "coaxing"!
 
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Old Feb 7, 2009 | 03:43 PM
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n5926g
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From: Hernando Ms
Update...... I removed the Multifunction switch,and cleaned it out.blew it out with some compressed air,and bathed it in WD-40. Blew it out again,and re-installed it..No more turn signal issues.Hell..even the wipers arent intermittent any longer......Thanks for the replys...this site indeed rocks!
 
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