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But if you're removing the rod and cylinder, what good is the JJ? You're paying for 2 plastic plugs you have to glue in. Oh, and you get some stickers.
So what if they do? The door shouldn't open, right?
Right, but damage the paint.
My lower cost solution which, works preventatively or post victim. Don't buy a new handle and have it painted to match. Just remove the rod and cylinder and have the body shop fill and paint the holes of the original handle and door.
After the first break-in on my truck, I replaced the driver's side door handle with a passenger side handle flipped upside down. Insurance estimate was almost $1000 to do this simple job. I bought a handle online and took it to a known good body shop (past experience with them) and had it painted to match. The reason I went with the passenger side handle is because my Lariat Ultimate had the sensors in the door handle. I removed the rod in the door and installed the new handle. Had to bend a couple of tabs on the door panel itself for the handle to fit properly, but it has been working for a year plus with no issues. The second and third time they broke into the truck, they shattered the rear door glass on the drivers side and then this time, they used something like an automatic center punch, poked a hole through the glass, then used some type of sharp pointed rod to push against the door k n o b trim ring and pushed up on the k n o b to unlock the door. This was AFTER they disconnected the horns by reaching through the grill and unplugging the horns. Not cutting any wires, just unplugging the horns. I am still waiting on the insurance company to get an adjuster to write up an estimate, but it will probably be in the $1500 - $2000 range for the damage that was done. Horns are getting upgraded and moved and everything else will be fixed.
My whole point is that this will slow down the thieves, but will not stop them. They will get in any way they can. I have learned after the first time not to leave anything of value in the truck. They stole a broken dash cam and insurance won't cover it. I wanted the memory card more than the dash came. I also ran a connector so that IF the battery dies on the truck, I can at least get power to the batteries to be able to open the door and then the hood.
Best of luck on your decision to make the effort to prevent this stuff from happening.
I plan to relocate the horns inside the engine bay or maybe install a parallel horn in the engine bay.
I ordered a Noco GB50 and accessory extension cable during Prime Day. Plan is to mount the GB50 in a weather proof box of some sort under the truck somewhere (still TBD). And have the extension perma mounted to battery and hanging down around the front spring somewhere the GB50 could be connected to it and power the truck enough to open doors with the fob in event of dead battery.
Doesnt look like the extension will be long enough at first glance, but not sure yet. If not, I’ll mount some other remote battery terminals somewhere.
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