Yeah all we get is the oil pressure gauge and a coolant temp gauge. And it’s just a needle… I would love to have the actual temps displayed, but the iDash covers that for me!

 

The oil pressure isn’t a real gauge. It’s wired to a pressure switch. And Ford doesn’t think we need a voltage gauge. Dumb.

 

So, I have been running the new iDash for a couple of weeks now. Like I mentioned, even with the replacement iDash, the trans temp immediately started reading "--" often times when starting it up, and I had decided I will just live with that. But my main concern was that the first one flat out wasn't coming on sometimes when cranking the truck... I was hoping that issue was done by replacing it, but since the weekend the replacement iDash has not come on 3 different times when cranking the truck! As suggested, after the first time it did not come on I removed the SD card, however, since then it has still not come on twice... I still don't believe that it is a defective unit though... it's hard to believe I would have 2 in a row that acted the same way... so maybe it is something to do with my OBD2 port or the truck talking to the iDash? Either that, or there is just something that is different about the 22MY's and they need a software update... but if this was the case, I imagine that they would be hearing from folks other than just me. So, I went ahead and put the SD card back in... at least I'll use that feature since I paid quite a bit extra for it and will just have to continue rebooting it every time it doesn't work correctly... This is a bummer though. I still love the iDash, but hate that it is is having all these issues so often.

 

I imagine with the Derringer unavailable, they aren't selling as many to the 20-22 crowd.

 

The MY2020 plus ECMs are encrypted. I'm sure they are working on it but they don't exist yet for the MY20s plus trucks.

 

hunting around for threadsa about the derringer and found this one with a lot of folks who used this. might be some good comments .

couple mof reandom thoughts.

the banks derringer uses a T connector at the fuel rail pressure and map sensor. Im wondering if we should start off with a new map sensor. mine was dirty, I cleaned it, and added a MAP sensor spacer.

so banks indicates it raises the AFR of the 6.7 to 19. that means it runs leaner. leaner should be less soot. everyone on forums reports no change to regen intervals. that sounds like it should be impossible. possible explination with my next comment. Since the 6.7 does not have wide band O2 sensors...im not convinced that the darrenger is bring the afr to 19 and keeping it there during the whole time the engine is running.

although banks clamins 250 per second analisys of PCM signals....I do not believe that the derringer is applying change continously.....it appears to apply changes when you put the pedal to the medal. so if I punch it to go up a hill...the "added power " bak ticks up....soon as I let of the pedal..or am at cruise speed....the "added power" bar stops alluminating. does that mean that during the time the "added power " indicator is not lit...the Derringer is dong nothing? this would explain why most folks report no change in regen intervals. you would have to compare regen intervals while towing up hill to regen intervals while towing uphill to get a sense if the derringer makes a difference at all in regen intervals.

didnt know this..but you can start a operator commanded regen with the derringer.

I cant seem to find a guage opting for low pressure fuel..or the lift pump. I know there is a PID for it since you can monitor with forscan.

its a curious thing that the derringer does not engage until engine operating temps are achived. for a lot of my trips...that will never happen. if the derringer can set the afr to 19...why wouldnt it do that all the time...operating temps would be reached sooner.

so basically guys, if you want to buy one to increase your regen intervals....there is no eveidence that the derringer will do that and no forum comments to that effect...most folks say no change in rgen interval.

if I ever get an AFR meter...i will test the afr at stock, then at the various power settings.

to me, this is like a vacume cleaner that doesnt use bags, but doesnt clen very well. seller pitches you dont need bags and will save money due to not having to buy bags....buyer wants a vacume that cleans.

 

ANyone have an issue where the idash wont power up with engine start, but if you unplug the ODBII and plug it in with the truck running it comes alive? It did it a few times before, but now that I forscanned and set the auto regen checkbox active, it doesn't come on at all on engine start, only by unplugging and plugging it back in does it turn on.

 

the idash comes on by monitoring the battery voltage drop . Voltage drop signals the idash that the vehicle is being started.

there is a setting to set the sensitivity

also, you shouldn’t have to unplug and reconnect the odbc connector…pressing the up or down button will wake up the idash.

 

I posted up on the original iDash thread here or one of these threads how to get into the Settings menu...

If no one answers this by the time I have time later, I'll hook up buddy...

 

Yes, I've had the same issue. One day after starting the truck and driving off I noticed the gauge was off. I tried pushing the up/down buttons but didn't work. Pulled over, killed engine, restarted.... still nothing. I unplugged and re plugged and it came on. I messed with the wake up sensitivity in the settings and it seems to have helped. But haven't driven the truck much since then, so can't say if it's a definite fix or not.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20655936

 

I have had the issue where it wouldn’t come on at start up on 2 different iDashes. And if I hit the down button to force it on none of the PID’s would actually read values… they would all say “- -“. For a while I would simply unplug it and plug it back in and that would get it to come back on and actually report values, or I could shut the truck off and back on and that would most likely work. When I called Banks they of course sent out a replacement, but it also does the same thing occasionally. They never even mentioned to me to reset the sensitivity settings, I assume because even when forcing it on it wouldn’t read correctly. Also, mine still has issues reporting trans temps pretty often, which has been an issue for a while. According to Banks, the update to v1.23.0 that came out last March (2021) addressed that issue on some models. It must not have applied to the 22’s though.

 

Mine on the rare occasion will do that, but not often, but like fritz said, pressing one of the buttons will wake and turn on the iDash.

I was having the same issues as listed above before I set the sensitivity setting to low.


Go to settings...



Go to other settings...


I switched mine to Low as i had the same problem...

 

Mine would be dead, pressing buttons did nothing, only unplugging and plugging back in WITH the truck running turned it back on. I set the sensitivity down like above, so will see if that helps. I just find it strange that it started acting up after I did a forscan change for the regen checkbox.

 

Just for giggles I went in and changed the sensitivity setting on mine to low as well the other day. Then getting in the truck this morning it didn't turn on and when I forced it on all the values read "- -". So (as I expected) it seems that the sensitivity setting wasn't the issue with causing mine not to turn on. I still think it's a software glitch with the current version of iDash and the 22's, or maybe it's just my truck... but with others reporting similar happenings, I am kind of leaning towards a software glitch... Saying that though, it happens so infrequently that it doesn't bother me...

On another interesting note, when I got in my truck this morning the trans temp PID indicated that it was at more than -800F! I snapped a photo but it had dropped down to -790F! LOL... It finally switched over to normal at about 32F...