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'62 F100 4WD, Warn hubs, 16" innies. See photos below.
The spindle nut has six slots for socket teeth.
The distance from the base of one slot to the base of its opposing slot is 2 11/16".
So the socket I need must have a 2 11/16" ID.
The 2 3/8" socket is too small.
I believe the appropriate socket doesn't have 6 teeth, it only has two teeth.
I borrowed the correct socket several years ago, but I don't remember exactly what it looked like.
I'm familiar with the makeup torque for the inner and outer nut, and flipping the ring that goes between them if necessary to get the proper alignment of parts.
Questions:
1 - What is the name or designation of this particular socket? Source?
2 - Gear oil runs out of the hub when you remove the cap. Is this oil shared from the knuckle gallery?
3 - My notes say that a hub service is as follows: remove hub parts, clean, coat with grease, reinstall, squirt in some gear oil, and reassemble. Is this hub originally designed to be lubed by both grease and gear oil?
4 - Source for o-rings for hub cap and rotating selector ****?
Warn was originally a local company here in the Seattle area. They have since moved headquarters to Portland. My 1966 F250 4x4 uses the T59T-1197-B Spanner Wrench. Available also as an aftermarket product with pictures from another member of that here. 65 F250 LB 4wd new brakes - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com)
From 1959 through 1965 the 4x4 trucks used a different Warn design with 8 larger Allen socket cap screws holding them together and they took a completely different seal kit with all different O-rings in the kits. In 1966 Warn changed the design to the 6 smaller Allen socket cap screws and the internals are also completely different. Ford no longer offered the individual parts to repair them and the seal kits only came from Warn after that point. Here's a picture of the older style aluminum bodies for comparison. You can see the 8 holes around the perimeter rather than the 6 like yours have.
These 1959-1965 design had a seal kit that came with the 3 O-rings and 2 locking snap rings. The middle sized O-ring is for the control **** and it's not really the typical O-ring because it has a groove in it to allow it to give a little more than if it were solid rubber.
You can see the groove in the one a little better in this closer up shot.
The difference in the size of the Allen screws can be seen here. 1959-1965 on the left and 1966 and newer on the right.
The larger screws were available from Ford as well as each of the individual parts like the aluminum bodies in my one picture.
Warn supplied the kits after 1966 with the new small Allen screws as well as the O-rings.
I'd have to read the instructions again to be sure but I believe they specify only using grease.
I had to look at your pictures again but I think all you need to do is remove the snap ring on the outside of the axle shaft - inside of the hub - and some of that will slide out revealing the spindle nut behind.
Here's the inner (left) and outer (right) halves on the 1966 style Warn hubs. Yours might be even newer since it looks slightly different. Warn changed things several times over the years and still sells the hubs as #20990.
That's what I was gonna say. Mine are a bit different, but I think snap ring is next for you.
I've had good luck sourcing 4wd stuff from torque King. Com
I've gotten things for my newer non-Ford 4x4 truck from Torque King. Shipping can be a bit spendy but what can you do? Otherwise, they seem to have good stuff. The Warn hubs sometimes are stamped on that raised pad on the control **** to help identify which they are. The 1959-1965 control ***** were sometimes stamped M4 and the 1966 and newer ones I've looked or have here have the M198 stamped on them. The Warn kits in my one post above say they are for the M198B hubs and seem to be correct for the 1966 hubs that I have. Warns' number for the kit for that year style was L9547.
Most of upper row are stamped M4
If you look close might be able to see the M198 on these.
Also offered for a brief period starting in 1966 was the Lock-O-Matic hubs which were stamped with an M175 designation. Ford part number was C6TZ-1104-F for these.
As much as I respect TA455HO's encyclopedic knowledge and stash of OEM parts, that's not the socket for that.
this is the one you are looking for. Has six pins, like your hub nuts, 2-11/16 I'd. Says 4543-4 chromoly steel, no manufacturer unfortunately and I have no idea where I got it, but it looks like OTC makes one. Available from Summit Racing and Amazon. Dan. TK65
Ha! I'll defer to you on this one no question there. I've never run across a Warn locking hub that required a socket to remove it. Always just 6 or 8 Allen head cap screws and snap rings and that's it. Same with the Dana locking hubs that some of our trucks came with originally. You can read the install instructions for the 1966 style Warn hubs that I posted and no mention of any tightening with a socket. Apparently, a different design than I've run across in my dealings. The 1959-1965 Warn hubs also need no socket. Those are covered about the best that I've seen so far in the 1961 Shop Manual. Warn definitely changed their design at various intervals, though, as seen comparing the 1959-1965 to 1966 style. If he gets the hub out and goes much further, I'm confident the other socket like I showed will be nice to have as well. At least the one I mentioned is covered well in more than one manual that I have. No mention of the socket you show, but it's good to know.
Sort of off topic but on eBay is listed this 1959-1965 complete Warn hub in the box. Very rare kit. They sold these as singles instead of only in pairs like they started in 1966. I bought this one and got it only to find out that inside of the box is the 1966+ style. Someone swapped it. I sent it back as I already have plenty of those. I've otherwise only come across the individual parts for these oldest style (1959 was first year Ford offered 4WD from the factory). The complete kit being a C0 - 1960 part number - as well as the same being true for the individual parts suggests that these weren't available until 1960 model year, but they also do fit the 1959 trucks since they used the same Dana (Spicer) front driving axles.
In my original photo, the 6 notches in the cassette are not for a socket.
You remove the wire snap-ring from the OD of the hub cylinder, and you remove the standard snap ring from the splined shaft, and the cassette comes out in one piece.
THEN, you are looking at the standard 4-notch spindle locknut.
That's where you use the standard size spindle nut socket - 2 3/8".
It takes about 50 ft-lbs to break the locknut.
Then remove the holy locking washer.
Then it takes about 3 ft-lbs to break the bearing nut using the same socket.
Then the entire hub/drum assembly will come off.
In mine, there was only one oil seal, located on the inner opening of the hub, preventing bearing lubricant from slinging onto the brake backer-plate.
I still don't have a 100% positive answer for whether gear oil in the bearing gallery is expected, or indicative of a failure.
Much changed in the few years between ~58 and ~63.
I saw a drawing that indicated no oil seal on driveshaft inside axle shaft, thus no way to prevent gear oil from migrating out the end of the axle tube into the wheel bearing gallery.
Not sure.
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