So I replaced my injector cups on my oh one. Injectors are back in, tried to suck out fluid from the cylinders through the glow plug hole didn’t get any fluid. Can I put the valve covers over with no go plugs in and turn the engine over? Is there a better quick way to get fluid out?

 

I usually go through the injector cup hole before installing the injectors to evacuate the cylinders. Do you feel like your getting far enough down into the cylinder through the glow plug hole? Did you evacuate the cylinders after pulling the injectors or is this the first attempt? You can always put the valve covers on with a couple bolts hand tight on each side and turn the crank over by hand with ALL the glow plugs out. just make sure to get plenty of full turns on the crank. After I feel like I have adequately turned the crank by hand I will hit the starter in a few short bursts before installing all the glow plugs.

 

I did try the injector hole didn’t get much of anything. How do I turn it by hand, Throw a socket on the crank and turn clockwise? I assume I’ll need a cheater bar

 

make sure your injectors are unplugged .....but that is how I have done it.

 

Yes a breaker bar and cheater will work, it takes some effort to turn it several revolutions. Most of the fluid will drain into cylinders 7 and 8. Did you feel your suction hose hit the top of the piston? What are you using for suction? There should be fluid in 7 and 8
On edit : how long has it been since you pulled the injectors?

 

swapped the cups saturday let sit Sunday tried sucking stuff out Saturday and Monday. Put injectors in yesterday and swapped fuel lines and other maintenance.

 

If I had to do it, I would disconnect 52 pin, GPs out, VCs on and give it a whirl. I already know that it will crank but not start with the 52 pin disconnected. I did not discover this on purpose.

 

Once you get it all back together, run the starter with the glow plugs removed and the valve covers loosely installed. That will clear out any last bits of fluid from the cylinders and guarantee no hydrolocking when you go to fire it up.

 

Kwikk is it possible that all that fluid has leaked past the rings being that it has been several days since the injectors were pulled? Just surprised he is not getting any fluid at all

 

turned it over by hand this morning with no glow plugs. Left valve covers off because I wanted to see what I got. Did four turns and got a fluid from the 7 and 8 and a little from 5. Did the same with the starter instead of by hand and only got some mist. Reassembled everything and batteries were low. So now those are charging. I see it takes a while to clear the air from the hpop. Then an oil change and flush the coolant. I did get one attempt to start it in and it turns over sounds and feels good but the low oil pressure light is on. So I assume lots of air. I did check the hpop level and it’s about 3/4” below the top.

 

Yes takes a lot of cranking to get the air out, just be sure to give the starter some resting periods. It would be wise to go ahead and change the oil . You can also disconnect the uvchs or pull the Idm relay and give it a couple cranking cycles before trying to start it .

 

In a case like this, where everything is already apart, would it be beneficial to crank it a while with the GPs out first? I'm thinking that it would but wonder if there might be a down side. Could even crank it like that until fuel started coming out the holes.

 

Yes, very beneficial. Fills the HPOP reservoir and charges the rails in the cylinder heads. ECU doesn't know the glow plugs are removed and it's going about it's business of getting the engine to run, it's just missing the necessary compression to produce ignition. So in doing so, the process of purging air in all the components is being accomplished without overworking the starter motor.

 

Have typed this a million times...

I'm going to save it this time so its just a cut and paste...

Not going over all the remove this and that to get to the valve covers coming off...

1. Remove #7 and #8 injectors.
2. Remove glow plugs.
3. Remove remaining injectors.
4. Clean and inspect injector cups. Make sure no copper seals are left in the cups.
5. Lube and install new injectors. Check all are seated fully by using a flat edge or level. None should be high or low more then a tiny bit, I use a pocket knife as a gauge.
6. Install valve covers (note I did not mention installing the UVC harness, glow plugs or anything else) with a bolt or two.
7. Bump starter solenoid with a screw driver, starter button or however... bump, bump, bump, bump, bump... Do this several times until you dont hear oil shooting out, then hold the starter on for about 15 seconds.
8. Remove valve covers, install glow plugs, harness and reconnect everything.
9. Test fire (note, I did not mention installing the valve covers, leave them off, get the truck running before bolting all that crap back on, then find you have an issue...).
10. Reinstall valve covers and remaining items...

It will be hard to start for a hundred miles or so, depending on how hard you drive it. It takes time to get the air out of the HPO system.

I have done this system for nearly 20 years...

Have NEVER removed the stupid rail drains...