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Hey guys I am replacing a bad injector it is removed and picking one up today what do I need to do to ensure the oil/fuel is all out before I instal the new one thanks
I use a Mity Vac with a small tube to fit into the injector cup hole or the glow plug hole. The Mity Vac (with a vacuum gauge) gets used on a lot of tasks with the Superduty and Powerstroke, so it's a good tool to have.
That's my first step. After the injector is in and before installing the glow plug, I short the starter relay on the passenger fender to crank out any fluid remnants. It comes out as a mist, but missed fluid doesn't miss making a mess.
Make sure you cycle the key 3 or 4 times for 30 seconds to make sure you have fuel pressure before starting it. If the ICP builds before the fuel pressure, you will dry fire the injector and ruin it.
Hey guys I am replacing a bad injector it is removed and picking one up today what do I need to do to ensure the oil/fuel is all out before I instal the new one thanks
Install your injector(s).
Remove the glow plug from that same cylinder(s).
Set the valve cover(s) in place to keep oil from spraying everywhere
With a large socket and breaker bar, rotate the engine by hand 3-5 times.
Reinstall the glow plug(s).
Check all the wiring (injectors, glow plugs etc).
Disconnect the CPS sensor
Crank the engine a few times to build oil pressure
Reconnect the CPS sensor and fire up the engine.
Verify that all injectors are working by noting the oil discharge from the spouts.
Shut down the engine and re-install the valve covers, IC tubes etc.
Install your injector(s). Remove the glow plug from that same cylinder(s). Set the valve cover(s) in place to keep oil from spraying everywhere With a large socket and breaker bar, rotate the engine by hand 3-5 times. Reinstall the glow plug(s). Check all the wiring (injectors, glow plugs etc). Disconnect the CPS sensor Crank the engine a few times to build oil pressure Reconnect the CPS sensor and fire up the engine. Verify that all injectors are working by noting the oil discharge from the spouts. Shut down the engine and re-install the valve covers, IC tubes etc.
Nice thanks guys hopefully I will get it done tonight
I've done this many times.
Make sure the fuse on the fuel pump is out, drain the fuel bowl.
You already have at least one side of the head unplugged from the wiring harness, wont hurt to unplug the other side.
Crank it, (with at least the injector out) and watch the fuel/oil shoot every where. This is also handy to do in the event you put the injectors in and hydrolock the motor. Just take a glowplug out and do it.
I've done this many times.
Make sure the fuse on the fuel pump is out, drain the fuel bowl.
You already have at least one side of the head unplugged from the wiring harness, wont hurt to unplug the other side.
Crank it, (with at least the injector out) and watch the fuel/oil shoot every where. This is also handy to do in the event you put the injectors in and hydrolock the motor. Just take a glowplug out and do it.
You don't want to crank the engine with any of the injectors removed. That doesn't accomplish anything except for making a huge mess. There is no reason to drain the fuel bowl either.
You don't want to crank the engine with any of the injectors removed. That doesn't accomplish anything except for making a huge mess. There is no reason to drain the fuel bowl either.
I drained the bowl for my own comfort so id make sure that there was anything still lingering around where the injectors are. Cranking the engine with an injector out will shoot all the fuel and oil out preventing hydrolock?
I drained the bowl for my own comfort so id make sure that there was anything still lingering around where the injectors are. Cranking the engine with an injector out will shoot all the fuel and oil out preventing hydrolock?
Incorrect. Cranking the engine without the injectors installed will fill the cylinders with oil and fuel. It will make a huge mess because the cylinders will clean them selves of fluid on every compression stroke but they will fill right up as soon as you are done cranking since there is about a quart of oil in the cylinder head oil rail. With your method, hydro lock can still occur.
The way to avoid hydro locking the engine is to install all the injectors and remove all the glow plugs. Then turn the engine over by hand. That will get rid of all the fluid except for whatever may reside in the piston bowl (which isn't a concern anyway).
No reason to do anything with the fuel bowl. That will work itself out on it's own.
Of course it goes without saying that you should change your oil after you have purged the fluid from the cylinders. If the engine has been sitting for several days after the injectors are pulled then there isn't going to be any fluid in the cylinders anyway since all of it would likely have leaked past the piston rings by then. Even so, it's wise to turn over the engine by hand anyway just to be sure. In those cases I usually change my oil after the injectors have been re-installed but before turning over the engine just so the LPOP is picking up pure oil instead of a possible fuel diluted mix. At that point it's splitting hairs anyway since the fuel dilution issue is quite a minor one.
Please do as per Shake-N-Bake his procedure is correct.also remember when started,the new injector may not fire perfect but if you go down the road after all reassembled it will bleed off and fir properly
Incorrect. Cranking the engine without the injectors installed will fill the cylinders with oil and fuel. It will make a huge mess because the cylinders will clean them selves of fluid on every compression stroke but they will fill right up as soon as you are done cranking since there is about a quart of oil in the cylinder head oil rail. With your method, hydro lock can still occur.
The way to avoid hydro locking the engine is to install all the injectors and remove all the glow plugs. Then turn the engine over by hand. That will get rid of all the fluid except for whatever may reside in the piston bowl (which isn't a concern anyway).
No reason to do anything with the fuel bowl. That will work itself out on it's own.
Of course it goes without saying that you should change your oil after you have purged the fluid from the cylinders. If the engine has been sitting for several days after the injectors are pulled then there isn't going to be any fluid in the cylinders anyway since all of it would likely have leaked past the piston rings by then. Even so, it's wise to turn over the engine by hand anyway just to be sure. In those cases I usually change my oil after the injectors have been re-installed but before turning over the engine just so the LPOP is picking up pure oil instead of a possible fuel diluted mix. At that point it's splitting hairs anyway since the fuel dilution issue is quite a minor one.
Guess a person learns something all the time. I've never had an issue doing it the way I described but doesnt mean I wont
I'm with Shake-N-Bake on this one. You still have open fuel/oil rails when an injector is out, and they are beneath the trajectory of anything shooting out of the cylinder. The truck went through great pains to deliver clean, filtered fuel and oil before the fluids reach the injector. Cycling the cylinder without injectors in place hurls soot-contaminated fuel and oil into the fuel and oil rails... to be pumped into the shiny injector.