Injector replacement
I did mine for the first time in about 6 hours total. That included cleaning everything I could get my hands on while in there. Also included changing the injector cups. had to let it sit overnight for the green loctite to sit up before re-installing the injectors. Pretty straight forward. I would also replace the glow plugs and UVCH while in there. I also did my fuel bowl rebuild and bellowed up-pipes at the same time
Yes I'm just pulling and replacing. I just got my new injectors in from swamps diesel today and am planning on doing this this weekend. In gonna change the valve cover gaskets and 4 glow plugs on the driver side also. Thanks for the input at least now I have an idea
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conte...structions.pdf
RiffRaff's instructions have never failed me. I find they are a very trusty resource when attempting to tackle jobs like this.
Personally, I think I would be in the realm of 6-8 hours to swap injectors. Especially doing something so finicky I like to take my time to the extreme. In fact, I probably wouldn't attempt it unless I had a full day or maybe 2 to set aside.
RiffRaff's instructions have never failed me. I find they are a very trusty resource when attempting to tackle jobs like this.
Personally, I think I would be in the realm of 6-8 hours to swap injectors. Especially doing something so finicky I like to take my time to the extreme. In fact, I probably wouldn't attempt it unless I had a full day or maybe 2 to set aside.
Thanks for the link and I already got those instructions printed out and waiting for me and I also have the full day Sunday to do it I'm pretty mechanically inclined so I'm hoping it won't take too long and I believe one if my buddy's might help also
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I don't care for RR's torque spec on the injector hold down bolts. They show 10ft/lbs....and that will lead people to think "Hey, I got a 1/2 drive torque wrench." 10 ft/lbs is on the low end of a 1/2 drive torque wrench and likely isn't going have an acceptable error.
Much better to use 120 in/lbs....and get a 1/4 drive torque wrench.
Search Rich's problems...You'll see his "adventure" started when he torque'd his injector bolts with a 1/2 drive @10 ft/lbs.
Much better to use 120 in/lbs....and get a 1/4 drive torque wrench.
Search Rich's problems...You'll see his "adventure" started when he torque'd his injector bolts with a 1/2 drive @10 ft/lbs.
Yeah, get the inch/lb wrench and run the truck with the valve covers off until it warms up. That way you can re-torque them while warm. You will get a 1/4 to a 1/2 a turn on the re-torque, and like Dan said, with the inch/lb wrench, you will e much more accurate.
Rich's struggles are almost worst case scenario, but my torn o-rings on 5 of 8 injectors comes close. I would have had a very hard time figuring that all out if it wasn't for Rich's experiences and input.
Rich's struggles are almost worst case scenario, but my torn o-rings on 5 of 8 injectors comes close. I would have had a very hard time figuring that all out if it wasn't for Rich's experiences and input.
I tried to a question answered in another post about hot-retorque...after applying Loctite.
My plan is to following Rich's method, remove hold down bolts, clean degrease bolt s, apply Loctite 246 to both the bolt and bolt hole, install injector, torque to 130 in/lbs.
My question is the time frame from applying the Loctite 246, torque, getting running and then retorque. My fear is that the thread locker will become compromised after the retorque.
Here's a link to the Tech sheet from Loctite 246.
Loctite 246 TDS
My plan is to following Rich's method, remove hold down bolts, clean degrease bolt s, apply Loctite 246 to both the bolt and bolt hole, install injector, torque to 130 in/lbs.
My question is the time frame from applying the Loctite 246, torque, getting running and then retorque. My fear is that the thread locker will become compromised after the retorque.
Here's a link to the Tech sheet from Loctite 246.
Loctite 246 TDS
Is it safe to fun it with the covers off? I only ask because you have all the other piping that you had to remove to get to the valve covers. And yes I was planning on doing the 120 inch/lb torque anything lower than 40 or 50ft/lb I'll try to convert to in/lb
Yes, you just have to make sure there is absolutely nothing that can get sucked in to the turbo, and take a bungee, attach it to one of the holes in the hood and hook the other end to the 42 pin connector to keep it out of the drivers side rocker arms.
I just finished up installing my stage 1 injectors. This is my 4th round on installing injectors (not just my truck). Instead of trying to suck out the oil. What I did was install all the injectors first, then remove all glow plugs. You can turn the motor over by hand or what I did was carefully bump the motor. After bumping a few times and seeing all the oil come out I crank it for 2 seconds and few more times. (remember oil will go all over the place so I put grease rags over the head).Then I put in new glow plugs and finished up the job. Next I hooked up my AE and watched the IPR pressure as I cranked it. It started real low (50PSI) cranked the motor for 15-20 sec and let the starter cool down for 30 sec or more. Repeated the crank cycle until I saw it hit 400 to 500 PSI and the truck started up.






