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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Exhaust Y Pipe

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Old Jun 26, 2022 | 08:48 AM
  #1  
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Exhaust Y Pipe

I have a 1994 F150 5.0L 4x4 Regular Cab Short Box. When I pull up to a stop light and idle I see stars from the exhaust fumes leaking into the cab. There are several rust holes that cant be welded due to their size. The dealership wants $1900 to replace the y pipe, cats, and pipes from front to back. I'm 100% disabled from my 23 years in the US Army so saving $2K would take me 10 years. I am trying to locate the correct part number for the Y Pipe and cats. The same dealership told me that I need the pipe that has the EGR Tube, and Valve assembly, but the previous owner deleted the air pump and plugged that pipe. If this doesn't make sense, I'm sorry, but I'm so confused. I was hoping to be able to buy the pipe and bolt it in myself, but I can't seem to find the right pipe. The one part number I have is 5F250 for a Dual Converter Y Pipe. Is that correct? Since the air pump system was deleted do I need the Y Pipe with the 9J454 Tube, Valve Assembly?

You folks are all so smart that I thought you may be able to help me. I tried going to the junk yard but they just saw all the cats off and wreck the pipe. Thank you for your time and consideration.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2022 | 09:19 AM
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Most direct replacement cat converters have an air line attachment but you can just leave that capped. Summit Racing has a selection of Y-pipe/converter packages for these trucks, here is an example.. 1994 FORD F 150 Flowmaster 2020057 Flowmaster Direct Fit Catalytic Converters | Summit Racing
 
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Old Jun 27, 2022 | 11:32 AM
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302 vs 351 y-pipes are different, as far as I know, 351w is wider.
If you order one, make sure it is for your engine size.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2022 | 10:26 AM
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OP,

We like Walker Exhaust because they can get you squared away from the Y-Pipe to the tailpipe and everything in between. With this being the regular cab short box you should have the 117" wheelbase.

Y-Pipe/converter assembly
- WLK-15742

Muffler
- WLK-22460

The correct Tailpipe will depend on the style of bed you have.
For Styleside bed
- WLK-45006

For Flareside bed
- WLK-45454

You'd need three of the following exhaust clamps. These will be used to connect the converter to the Y-pipe and then the converter to the muffler. Then there will be one used to connect the muffler to the tailpipe.
- WLK-35336

You'd need one of the exhaust isolators for the rear of the tailpipe.
- WLK-35460

Let us know if we can be of any further assistance. We'll be happy to help!
 
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Old Jun 30, 2022 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MNF150Sport
The same dealership told me that I need the pipe that has the EGR Tube, and Valve assembly, but the previous owner deleted the air pump and plugged that pipe.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and Air Injection are two completely different systems.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 08:50 AM
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I understand that they are separate. The pipe coming off the exhaust runs up the back side of the engine and is plugged. Where would that pipe connect to the egr system?
 
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by MNF150Sport
I understand that they are separate. The pipe coming off the exhaust runs up the back side of the engine and is plugged. Where would that pipe connect to the egr system?
It' doesn't connect to the EGR system, it is part of the air injection system. It would connect to a metal check valve first and then to a rubber hose that connect to a diverter valve that directs air into the back of the cylinder heads or to that pipe that runs down to the cat.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 11:00 AM
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Got it.

The repair shop told me it was part of the EGR, and I said I thought it was part of the air induction. The mechanic basically shamed me for being dumb. I guess he was the dumb one. So is it possible to buy a Y pipe minus the cats without that return line or do I need to buy a Y pipe with cats and just block off that pipe?


Originally Posted by Conanski
It' doesn't connect to the EGR system, it is part of the air injection system. It would connect to a metal check valve first and then to a rubber hose that connect to a diverter valve that directs air into the back of the cylinder heads or to that pipe that runs down to the cat.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 11:13 AM
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The tube is to inject fresh air into the catalytic converter to get it up to temperature faster. The check valve is there to prevent exhaust gas from going any further upstream. Even though the air pump is gone, I would put a converter on it. A stock replacement will have the tube which you can leave capped (as stated in post#2) or you might be able to find a “Y” pipe and install a generic cat without the port.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 12:12 PM
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Just a note to keep in mind; the air injection system is designed to inject air into the exhaust for approximately the first 5 minuets or less of cold operation to help the less efficient cats of the era to "fire off".

After that, it's done. The more efficient cats currently produced do not need this additional air to come up to temp or multiple cats to do the job of one.

 
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Old Jul 1, 2022 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MNF150Sport
The repair shop told me it was part of the EGR, and I said I thought it was part of the air induction. The mechanic basically shamed me for being dumb. I guess he was the dumb one.
The one and only pipe in the EGR system on a 5.0 truck connects between the EGR valve and a port in the lower intake, the tube is only about 15" long.

Originally Posted by MNF150Sport
So is it possible to buy a Y pipe minus the cats without that return line or do I need to buy a Y pipe with cats and just block off that pipe?
You may find an "offroad" Y pipe without a cat... they were a little more common years ago but not so much now and I don't know if it would save you any money. If you get a replacement Y-pipe/cat combo the cat will have a little stub pipe that comes capped, this cap isn't intended to be permanent but it could be made so with a couple spot welds.



 
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