OOPS Wrong link

 

I am going to O'Reilly's again this week to see what I can find. I got a CEL come on after I fixed my PCV valve and I am thinking it must be these lines that are broken that are causing that light...

 

My question is why are these original lines different colors? Is that to distinguish one line from another as to where they go?

 

OK, here is 22' of 5/32" vacuum line LOL! I got a box of miscellaneous vacuum tees. I am not sure what size I need.

 

The reason they are different colors are to do with emissions. If you look at your VECI(this is not mine, I just googled it really quick for a 4.9, no idea what yours looks like) you will see it has color coding on it. on mine, since I used black tubing, I made sure to use electrical tape of the corresponding color to keep it straight if I have to ever look at it in the future. where I had red tubing, red tape is on the tubing, where green went(EGR), I used green tape.

Because most of my lines run on the backside of the engine, out of reach and sight, I imagine keeping it straight is a bigger deal generally. When I do it 100%, Im going to run it over the engine or in front somehow, because I have too much trouble reaching that far back.
The last spark plug really sucks too lol

Id really appreciated if the PCV was easier to get to. I have a new grommet, a PCV pushed into it, then a tube off the PCV to a small adapter, which steps up to a larger diameter "PCV" hose which then runs to my vacuum fitting. My original hose was not good. Its not ideal, but it works for now.

 

Those t's shouldnt be needed. But is that vacuum rated tubing? as in, you wont have a collapse if you run 3 feet, with 90 degree turns? The reason its hard tubing is it can be a small diameter and also turn without kinking or collapsing. The hose looks a little large. I reused the 90 degree elbows (they were okay) I cleaned them up and used a tad silicone grease to push new tubing into them. the tubing I got at oreillies. Black, shiny stuff

 

I think this may depend on engine and year. I seem to recall one of the red tubing underhood of my 96 f150 being larger diameter, but I could not tell if it was just appearances or what. I would have to check again but I dont think I replaced that one yet

NVM, I remember, it was one of my lines leading back to the vacuum canister which was not one of the small ones being discussed

 

i didn't want to go with more hard line. It costs alot more for 3 feet per roll vs the soft vacuum line. Plus, it gets brittle...just like the original lines. That tubing is vacuum line. 5/32". I got the tees because in that write up on the Bronco forum, it said one would need 2 vacuum tees to do this...

 

Yeah, I agree with the PCV valve location. I had to take my upper intake plenum off, replace that gasket to be able to replace the grommet, hose and PCV valve a couple weeks ago. What a pain in the a**!

 

Youre okay on the t thing, I originally didnt realize this was a small block so I was thinking about a i6.

but I mean, is this vacuum hose going to withstand and not kink? If so, all right, your choice. To aid it, you may consider delibertly interupting the hose sections with some of your t's and splices. Give it strength and allow 90 degree bends without kinking

 

5.8L engine.
I don't know about the kinking...that wasn't something I had thought about. Maybe need silicone line instead.

 

no the material isnt the problem. its just if you have engine vacuum (which is a lot of vacuum in a chamber thats flexible, and you have that chamber make sharp turns, its conceivable its going to "collapse" under vacuum in those turns if not supported or done too tightly.Tubing is not "flexible" in the same way, the walls are very strong that is why they used it originally.
Also the longer the hose, the more likely the situation. thats why I said split it up if you can/need, make turns with elbows etc
thatll allow your plan to work and the concerns i bring up to be handled