So I'm trying to figure out which route I should take and looking for opinions here.

My current rig is a 96, CC, 4WD California truck with 360K on the clock and to my knowledge are the original 'AB' Split Shot injectors. For the most part everything on it is bone stock with the exception of recently changing out the mechanical lift pump and going with Marty's E-Fuel conversion. I've been chasing for some time now (even with the stock mechanical pump) an intermittent surging issue and after going over all the obvious electrical components, (IPR, ICP, IDM, etc) and cleaning the EBP tube, recent tests have concluded that I might have some leakage across the injector o-rings. While replacing those I also bought the Shim kit to reset all my armature clearances and with that much mileage I'm sure they are in need of some TLC as well.

I already have the shims and o-ring kits for all 8 injectors but before I jump into all this are there any other areas of an injector that with this many miles on the clock would also be subject to failure in the future? I've never taken one of these injectors completely apart but trying to determine whether my plan to tune these up are sufficient enough or should I bit the bullet now and replace them all with new Alliant factory injectors and be done with it. Not looking for any extreme performance enhancements, just to get the factory feel on it again.

Thanks for any opinions you can throw my way!

Sean

 

Nearly 400k, those injectors are junk. If you need external orings, you need internal also. I just popped in some 205/30s from Bitterroot into my '96, still running on a stock tune they act like a 90/30. Pretty neat.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-to-know.html

Going to single shot AAs will require a tune, cheapest is a TS with some custom files. The Hydra is better, I have both and I do not really care for the Hydra display. You should replace that junk smashed flat downpipe and at least get a 3". Stock is very restrictive. Swap out the Orange Boots of Death and verify your stock air intake box still holds together.

 

Thanks, yeah I replaced my boots some time back when changing out my lift pump the first time about 20K miles ago with Riffraff's products. Been holding up great. The originals came out in pieces.

I'm looking at eventually doing the down pipe as well. From what I remember reading you have to cut or modify the firewall to make the unrestricted pipe fit. Did I read that correctly?

 

Yes, there is a lip to bend back or cut back. Not really hard at all. Most of us use the Diamond Eye downpipe.

 

Given the mileage and that it looks like the injectors are going to come out. Unless the cups were recently replaced, might consider replacing them as well.

For the surge, have read similar comments on this scenario. Swapping over to a SD PMD looks like it cures the surge after a strong pull, but it will require adding a new sensor (do not recall which one at the moment) to the engine, swapping a couple pins in the PMD's harness, and living with the ABS warning light constantly 'On' (or unplugging it). Primary goal of swapping to a SD PMD is more options for tuning where curing the surge issue was an incidental discovery.

 

Yes, new BDP injectors is a great move with those miles!

 

Yeah I just ordered the Diamond Pipe downpipe for mine. Watched a few videos on it and looks a lot easier that I remembered being told. I went with the aluminum one and thought the SS pipe would have been a bit overkill for me. Probably will go with a cat delete as well while I'm in there. Here is CA I don't have to worry about smogging this truck so cant go wrong there.

I already ordered new Alliant cups a little while back. Not sure the condition of the current ones but again with the mileage I figured its additional cheap insurance. Picked up the Riffraff Cup tool. Kind of excited to actually use it.

I did read a ton of good things about Rosewood's Injector rebuilds. I emailed Jim and so far he has kind of changed my tune a bit with reman's vs. new. Plus I just found out a buddy of mine is running Rosewood's rebuilds on his stock AB injectors and after 10K miles so far has had 0 issues. I am looking at the BDP injectors as well. Its always been my assumption to go new vs. reman's but I guess it all depends on who and how its reman'd maybe.

Any info on how the BDP reman's compare to the competition?

 

A properly built new injector will likely last 2-3+ times longer than a quality remanufactured injector. It really just comes down to your current budget.

 

I chose BDP over Rosewood just for the more updated data that was put out in that thread I sent you and how poor NEW injectors are currently.

 

Thanks, I went ahead and decided to go with BDP rebuilding my injectors. Having the solenoids done as well so pretty excited about that.

Started removing the injectors today and while at it starting removing the cups as well since they will be replaced anyways. For various reasons I only got the passenger side removed today but while removing the cups I started to clean the injector bores and noticed some what appear to be small cracks at the base where the cup seats. This is on Cylinder 1. Is this something I should be concerned about? Prior to removal I never noticed any issues with coolant in the fuel or any other fluids where they shouldn't be. Just with 360K miles figured they were cheap insurance to replace. Just hope I didn't open a can of worms doing so...

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Looks like the old loctite.

 

Yeah that's what it was. Had to get a longer pick to scrape that stuff away and finally got it to flake off.

Appreciate all the help. Thank you both for recommending the BDP Injectors. Looking forward to putting them in.

 

The Alliant brush kit is very helpful cleaning the bore.

 

I have the Alliant brush kit which yes has been quite helpful. There are a few holes which has dried loctite and after much elbow grease the hand brushes aren’t quite getting it all out. I’ve used a small pick to flake off what was on there which does help. Brake clean helps out also.

Do you see any harm with me using a right angle die grinder with a medium bristle end brush? I’ve used these brushes on everything from cast iron to aluminum with out any issue but wasn’t sure how critical it was on the bore that this can or shouldn’t be used. Others have used a right angle drill but the die grinder is much easier to move around, especially in the rear holes.

 

Brake clean and the brush kit has always worked great for me.