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I have a '94 extended cab that originally had a 5.0 fuel injected...when I bought it the previous owner had swapped for a '96 5.8 police package and had stripped the fuel injection and 4bbl carb....did the same on the front tank...then bought a 20-35 gph inline pump (hard to find at that gph) and bought a 12 volt actuator wired to a toggle switch next to the fuel pump switch on the dash...
A ‘96 police package what? In 1996, a Crown Victoria would have had a 4.6L Modular motor. Stripped the fuel injection and 4bbl carb? EFI and carbureted? Do you still have the inertia switch wired in or an oil pressure switch? I’m wondering what shuts off the power to the pump in an accident.
I could just me me that is having trouble deciphering what you wrote.
A ‘96 police package what? In 1996, a Crown Victoria would have had a 4.6L Modular motor. Stripped the fuel injection and 4bbl carb? EFI and carbureted? Do you still have the inertia switch wired in or an oil pressure switch? I’m wondering what shuts off the power to the pump in an accident.
I could just me me that is having trouble deciphering what you wrote.
when I purchased the truck,the 5.8 351 was already in it with the fuel injection and intake both swapped for a Edelbrock intake and 4bbl carb...it also came with a MSD control box,distributor, and coil...what my son and I changed was fuel delivery...again it only had a hose stuck in the rear tank and a 5 to 9 gph inline pump,the in-tank pump on the rear had been removed.What we did was bought another rear tank pump and took apart the assembly and removed the pump motor from inside.We then added a section of hose to replace where the motor was inside the assembly and installed the whole assembly back into the rear tank...we copied the same procedure on the front tank...we left the two wires for the sending unit (fuel gauge) but disconnected the two wires for the pump power. We also disconnected those same wires from the tank selector switch on the dash.We then installed a inline 20-35 gph pump on the chassis between the front and rear tank. We added an actuator (costs 25 bucks on Ebay) and a toggle switch on the dash next to the tank selector switch. We cut out whatever parts of the stock fuel lines we didn't need including the fuel return and filled in those gaps with rubber fuel hose. Lastly we added a fuel pressure regulator on the firewall with a return line to the front tank....This was the simplest way to cut the dramatic pressure difference needed between the fuel injection system and the now carb...I'm not at the moment where I can,but I'll send you pictures later...but simply we went from in-tank pumps to a single inline pump and actuator to switch tanks but left the in tank pump assemblies in place for the fuel pickup and fuel gauges that still work on the dash switch
